AAARRRGGGHHH! How do I remove this %^&% intake!?!?!?!

OK, I'm trying to remove a W24 intake from an L-series datsun motor. I could only find four bolts to remove. They're out, but the intake is still firmly attached to the head. I decided to hit the interwebs to see if I could find any photos that would show me where the other bolts are located.

I found pictures of one of the things here:

It clearly is held on by four bolts at the top. There are NONE(!!!!) on the bottom. Apparently, datsun intake manifolds are held in place by witchcraft and fairy dust. More importantly, those magical things are strong; I have all four bolts out and cannot get it off.

I've tried tapping an entire row of screwdrivers into the gasket, and it still won't budge. How should I remove this gasket?

I would not try the screwdriver route as it might scratch the sealing surface, but a solid wack with a mallet on the plenum ... see what happens?

Any possibility there is a bracket underneath the manifold that attaches to something else for support? Kinda weird there is nothing securing the bottom of manifold.

Seems weird to have all the bolts on one side, is it locked in some how on the opposite side?

or what anti-stance said ^^^^

Anti-stance wrote: Any possibility there is a bracket underneath the manifold that attaches to something else for support? Kinda weird there is nothing securing the bottom of manifold.

Yep, it looks like those tabs on the bottom fit into something. Maybe some bracket that is bolted to the block.

Look underneath the manifold to see where those tabs go. You may have to lift the manifold to get the tabs out if they fit in pockets cast in the block.

Is this a non-crossflow head? If so, is there something with the exhaust manifold that helps secure the intake manifold?

Anti-stance wrote: Is this a non-crossflow head? If so, is there something with the exhaust manifold that helps secure the intake manifold?

No, it is not a crossflow. somehow locking with the exhaust manifold makes sense. Unfortunately, I cannot see what is happening there because there are stupid heat shields in the way.

Slippery wrote: I would not try the screwdriver route as it might scratch the sealing surface, but a solid wack with a mallet on the plenum ... see what happens?

Thanks for the heads up. I will lay off the screwdrivers and try applying a rubber mallet.

http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/95507-removing-intake-manifold.html

Internet suggests, there are bolts under the heat shield that must be loosened, then the manifold will lift up and off.

Yeah, there are bolts with huge tangs that capture the intake and exhaust manifolds. Semi-common practice on old inlines, and the L-series is an old design.

sachilles wrote: http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/95507-removing-intake-manifold.html Internet suggests, there are bolts under the heat shield that must be loosened, then the manifold will lift up and off.

Thanks. I've got some reading to do...

Are you replacing the gasket? It appears it has a shared gasket according to that zcar thread.

Yeah, knowing nothing about Datsun motors, my first suggestion would be increasing levels of force with a rubber mallet...assuming you're 100% sure there isn't some little chicken E36 M3 bracket holding it in place. Another thought: Without prying on the mating surface, is there a way you can still get leverage on it to pry it off? Like a pry bar between the distributor with a block of wood and some rags in between? (Does that make sense?)

Also, if it's stuck that solidly, good luck getting all that berkeleying gasket off. Ugh.

Anti-stance wrote: Are you replacing the gasket? It appears it has a shared gasket according to that zcar thread.

I am now. I just chewed it up pretty bad with the screwdrivers. I had been working from the (erroneous ) assumption that it was working like glue to stick the manifold in place.

Off to loosen the exhaust bolts

OK, the heat shield that used to cover the exhaust manifold is off. ("Used to cover" because it won't ever do that again....it might, possibly, have been destroyed during a small tantrum.) I only had two bolts shear off while removing it, which appears to be par for the course

All but two of the bolts have been removed from the heat shield on the bottom of the intake manifold. The wrench slipped a few times on each....I'm stopping now before I round them off worse. Will continue when I'm more calm.

I can see the exhaust bolts that are messing with the intake, but don't think I can reach all of them yet.

Knurled wrote: Yeah, there are bolts with huge tangs that capture the intake and exhaust manifolds. Semi-common practice on old inlines, and the L-series is an old design.

I wish that detail had been mentioned in an obvious place in my datsun 810 shop manual. I certainly have not found anything about it....

Thanks, guys, I appreciate the help and information.

Gawd, that's an ugly, mutant looking thing.

Looks very similar to a Volvo B20. The lower bolts/nuts use a "football" shaped washers that stradle both manifold flanges. The Spitfire and GT6 engines are similar.

That's the nicest thing that can be said about it. I drove to my local Advanced Autoparts to get some PB blaster....hoping that my earlier efforts didn't crack the bolts. We'll see.

also went to Taco Bell.....I have become addicted to Cool Ranch flavored Doritos tacos.

Ian F wrote: Looks very similar to a Volvo B20. The lower bolts/nuts use a "football" shaped washers that stradle both manifold flanges. The Spitfire and GT6 engines are similar.

A pox on all their houses!!! (And especially for the authors of the datsun 810 shop manual who neglected to mention this)

JoeyM wrote: Will continue when I'm more calm.

I did chuckle at this a little bit because I have been to that point several times before working on cars. I just hope this isn't a daily driver and that it doesn't have to be put back together anytime soon.

Just give it an hour or two then get back at it.

No, this is the perpetual project (a.k.a. my datsun replica.) I just want to get my preferred intake in place to determine the clearances before I set up the steering. This sort of personal incompetance is why I avoid wrenching on a DD

JoeyM wrote: That's the nicest thing that can be said about it. I drove to my local Advanced Autoparts to get some PB blaster....hoping that my earlier efforts didn't crack the bolts. We'll see.

I used to talk up Kimball-Midwest's penetrating oil as being far superior to PB.

Then we got a sample of this... stuff. It's called Helper, and i wish I had a manufacturer name so I could link it. It's 20 ounces of pure magic in a can. It makes Kimball look like ginger beer, man.

A little shot of it and a 5 minute wait has done the following miracles:

Unsiezed the slide pin on my VW Unsiezed another slide pin from a caliper hanger that was sitting for a couple years after torching couldn't unstick the pin Enabled removal of Toyota E-Z-Break charcoal canister screws Enabled removal of stabilizer links on an E46 with no need for heat. One side was treated with Helper, the other with Kimball. The Helper side zipped right off. The Kimball side loosened a little until the link stud started spinning. Sprayed Helper on that, walked away, came back and it spun right off even though the stud was now free to rotate.

The stuff is AWESOME.

We also have some cans of PB. I use it on a rag to clean up duct tape residue.

JoeyM wrote: Will continue when I'm more calm.

Good idea! My trick is to walk away, throw a tantrum (and anything else within reach), get a drink, sit and stare at it for a while, do something else for a while then go back and stare at it some more before getting back to it.

If all else fails to calm you, the Good God Almighty!