Mr_Asa
UltimaDork
2/16/23 3:43 a.m.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:
Update. I found some 1/2" to 3/8" FIP brass reducers that might work. $36 instead of $100+. I can also return them if I come up with a better idea. the inside diameter just almost slides over a 7/8" candle, so I can bore out the threads with a 7/8" or 29/32" bit so it slides on with a loose slip fit. Now I just need to find a friend with a lathe (which might be local or might be Mr_Asa). I'll likely leave the hex shape of the fat end, or might round it off to add more "facets" to the bottom. Sand, copper plate, polish, install. Still not totally sold on this, so I'm open to suggestions.
Bore out the threads (red lines) and cut off the top so the wick isn't buried too deep (blue line)
If we are talking lathe work, I'd rather start from something like this.
That was just the first search on Amazon. May be a more suitable piece out there.
You probably don't want to make the same drive that you made to grab your fireplace stone, but I have a lathe in the shop that you're welcome to use. I can help, but you clean up any blood that may be splattered around by the end of the project!
Maybe this?
Cast Copper Pipe Hose Adapter: 1/2″ Fitting - $4.22 ea
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/71761761
In reply to lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) :
Haaa... At the beginning of any big group work at the theater I give a pep talk that goes something like this:
Please be careful and don't get hurt. Getting hurt means paperwork, and I hate paperwork. Also, if you become severed from an arm, I will straight up make you mop up your own blood with the remaining arm.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I might end up doing that. My concern is that I've never used a lathe/mill or turned metal before. I'll research it, but I am just concerned that they will look like the clay mug I made for grandma in 5th grade art class.
At least starting with something pre-cast and just modestly modifying it might be a better start for a noob
post a sketch or picture of what you think you want...
stafford1500 said:
post a sketch or picture of what you think you want...
The very first picture on page one is what a typical candle follower looks like. They're solid brass and their job is to make a well of molten paraffin to hold for burning instead of the wax just dripping down the side and making a mess. They're heavy enough to stay vertical and just follow the candle as more wax melts below the flame. They have the benefit of keeping things un-messy, and also making the candles burn way longer since the wax stays at the flame instead of on the floor. I think the weight is also partly responsible for the seal... keeping the liquid wax above the chamfer and not letting it leak out between the brass and the candle.
Once I get a chunk of brass cut like this I can plate it copper... or start with a billet of copper and make it this shape.
The cross section of that candle follower likely looks something like this:
I'm not as concerned with outside shape, in fact, if it doesn't look like a traditional follower like you see in a church, I'd prefer it. If I started with the brass reducer I pictured above, it might look something like this:
I will check the shelf of off cuts...
How many do you need?
What kind of length do you want? I did a quick search of the scrap bin at work and found a couple things, I have a lathe in the basement. The hex plug would probably work best, it is a little under an inch ID. The barb is 1" ID but no lip on the end.
I could dig a little deeper in the bin to see what else I could find if you are interested.
EvanB said:
What kind of length do you want? I did a quick search of the scrap bin at work and found a couple things, I have a lathe in the basement. The hex plug would probably work best, it is a little under an inch ID. The barb is 1" ID but no lip on the end.
I could dig a little deeper in the bin to see what else I could find if you are interested.
I would guess a total height of an inch or so. Too short and they might have a tendency to rock sideways on the candle, and too long they will just snuff the candle sooner when they reach the bottom. Regular taper candles are 7/8" nominal, but they vary a bit. Most candles are made in another country, and since we're only one of about 3 countries that still uses inches, they probably make them 22 or 23mm to get close. That's why I was going to bore mine to 29/32" or so.
I should measure some followers to see how tall the reservoir is at the top. I would imagine that too tall would cause the wick to be down in the hole too far, and too short might mean that the heat melts more wax than the reservoir can hold and it might spill over the top.
And of course I realize that the candles I buy might be harder/softer, or my include more or less large-chain HC and smaller chain HC... meaning that these might work perfectly on candle A but not candle X. That's too much to stress about, so I'm going to buy candles and put these metal things on top and see how they work.
If Stafford doesn't find any offcuts I can dig a bit deeper in the bin to find some matching pieces of the right size and see what I can make.
I did not find enough brass or copper offcuts on shelf to do more than 1 piece, based on the sizes discussed above.
