Enyar
Enyar Dork
11/15/17 1:39 p.m.

My contractor is slowly starting to anger me so I'm reaching out to you all with a few questions. We're building a covered patio behind our house and we're almost done. It's these last important details that I can't quite wrap my head around.

 

1. The roof is inverted T1-11 board which can be seen from below. From the very beginning the design was supposed to not show any nails. When he first mentioned it he said they would use 2 layers of plywood. Now it's only one layer but he says I still won't see the nails because they are 3/4" nails. Is that up to code? Doesn't seem very strong for hurricanes

2. In roofing valleys - are there any requirements for aluminum flashing to be underneath the shingles? Or is it just shingles on top of the peel in stick?

3. Unfortunately this isn't in writing but when I first discussed this he was supposed to run a new electrical circuit for the light/fan. I came home yesterday and instead he took off one of my exterior lights, added a big ugly box and then ran the wire in conduit up the wall and to the ceiling. This makes little to no sense to me because the roof is opened up so access to the wiring inside the attic is right there, why not just tap into that and run the wiring out of sight? On top of that my only other exterior light is now obsolete because he put a post in front of it. If youre gonna take away a light to get access to wiring why wouldn't you use that one? On top of that that means this exterior fan/light isn't GFCI protected, is that ok for code?

 

While I'm on my soap box let me vent a few of my other gripes. During construction the contractor busted a pipe and flooded my living room. Luckily my wife and I caught it in time to do damage control with fans and the shop vac. The carpet was saveable though I have a bunch of new stains on it now.  Meanwhile it's been 3 weeks and he's sent a sub out 2 times and we still have no carpet pads, unfinished drywall and trim laying everywhere. In order to fix the leak the sub had to put two softball size holes on the inside of my concrete block. I told him when they put it back together i wanted it how it was with the concrete patched, insulation and water barrier replaced and drywall/painted. Sub said no problem and I left to go to work. I came home and the drywall is up but the freaking idiot didn't patch the concrete on the outside of the house. So when you look in the hole you can see to the otherside and you can see the back of the drywall.

 

The other thing is the guy put up black drip edges when I requested white. Now he wants to paint them instead of replacing them which I feel like won't hold up very well. What do you think?

 

He also did a couple other things we didn't agree to including cutting my cable line but I'm focusing my anger elsewhere. My wife is pissed about the interior and I'm starting to get grumpy about the exterior. What do you guys think?

Fueled by Caffeine
Fueled by Caffeine MegaDork
11/15/17 1:42 p.m.

Do you/he have a permit for this space?

Enyar
Enyar Dork
11/15/17 1:45 p.m.

Yes. It's not shingled yet but passed inspection today.

Fueled by Caffeine
Fueled by Caffeine MegaDork
11/15/17 1:55 p.m.

I learned a lesson many years ago as a plant engineer.  If the item isn't in an agreed to scope of work, written down on paper..  Then you could be hosed.

 

 

Enyar
Enyar Dork
11/15/17 1:58 p.m.

In reply to Fueled by Caffeine :

I know that. Prior to this all starting he was supposed to send me plans for electrical and never did. I checked my emails and I asked 3 times. Hard to agree on a plan if I don't have it. We will see what happens.  At this point I'm planning on ripping out his wiring, patching the holes in concrete and doing it my way. I just want to figure out if code requires a separate circuit or GFCI to help my case.

dculberson
dculberson PowerDork
11/15/17 2:06 p.m.

You do not need aluminum flashing in the valleys. There are flexible membranes that are approved roof flashing. As to whether what he used is the right stuff there's no way to know from here. 

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/15/17 4:40 p.m.

No metal should be in the valley unless it's an "open" valley (where you see the metal valley with a small ridge in the center - profile like the letter With). 

If you have shingles woven across the valley then ice and water shield is good.

 

 

SlimShady218
SlimShady218 New Reader
11/16/17 8:20 a.m.

The biggest motivator for a contractor is money.  Withhold payment until the work is completed to your satisfaction.  If you feel that he didn't give you the scope of work that was "agreed" upon, you shouldn't be obligated to pay what was "agreed" upon.  Typical shingle roofing nails are usually 1-1/4" or longer, definitely want to call the building inspector about the roof nails.  With regards to the electrical it doesn't sound like it's a code violation, just unsightly and not what you asked for.  GFCI can be done with a breaker change if that's a concern, and with it being an exterior light, the circuit may already be protected in the panel.  My advice is to withhold payment immediately and be prepared for a bumpy ride, also document, document, document.  Photos, e-mails, letters, text messages, save them all.  After every phone call write a confirming email about the conversation you just had, tell him in writing that you aren't happy with the workmanship and it wasn't what you had agreed upon and that you are withholding payment until those items are corrected.  Keep a phone call log as well and document when and how many times you called, note if you left a voice mail and if he ever called you back.  Having been a construction superintendent and project manager for quite a few years I have been through this before, and stopping payment is usually an attention getter.  Good luck, hope this helps.

Enyar
Enyar Dork
11/30/17 9:26 a.m.

Update: 

 

1. The inspector says nails need to penetrate 3/4" past the wood. Contractor has already used 3/4" nails and supposedly they are ironing out the details.

 

2. Roofing valleys do have galvanized flashing under the shingles in the valley

 

3. He's sticking with not adding a circuit though it does sound like he's trying to make the wiring less obtrusive on the outside...

 

It's been a month since he flooded my living room and it's still taken apart. He also installed black drip edges on the roof when i specified I wanted white. I specifically told him I didn't want them painted because it's not going to last like a factory finish. Got home on Monday to a spray painted drip edge.... Oh and the NE corner of the slab is underwater with light rain.

 

I tried telling him I wasn't happy with what I was paying for and he basically said I'm sorry you don't think it's going well but that's how it goes. Then I asked if there was anything we could do to make everyone happy and he said the contract is complete and he's awaiting payment. I told him fine but you better believe all of this will be documented and reviewed accordingly online. That's when he hung up on me.

 

I still owe him ~2.5k. What are my options here? Sounds like I don't have many other than knowing who not to use next time.

 

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/30/17 11:31 a.m.

sadly, I think you may be screwed unless you want to go to court over a broken contract

dean1484
dean1484 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/30/17 4:20 p.m.

I would start with a letter with a monetized punch list that reflects costs based on getting someone else to come in and fix it.  The letter will need to say that he will not get paid until all the items on the list are completed. 

I deal with this every day.  The contractor "Ironing out the details" with the inspector.  LOL. That is code for you getting a substandard roof and the inspector got taken care of.    That is simple.  Remove the roof and reinstall it with the correct fasteners.  There are specific codes for FLA and roofs.  There will be a minimum sheathing thickness and it may also have to be rated as a roof sheathing I don't know if T111 meets this.  

I think you got the short end on this one.  

imgon
imgon Reader
11/30/17 6:57 p.m.

For your fan light, they don't need to be on a dedicated circuit per electrical code. Tapping off another circuit is pretty common, having 8-10 devices (receptacles or lights) is not unusual. Depending on how the patio is designed it may need conduit to keep the wiring weather proof. Still looks ugly but may be needed. As for GFCI protection, it may not be required either. Normally just receptacles need to be GFCI'd, but in some circumstances lights do need to be protected. The wiring method and GFCI are based on whether or not the patio is considered a damp or wet location and where the fan light is located. I would think it will be classified as a damp location. As Dean mentioned the inspector just deals with minimal code requirements not anything contractual. In MA there is a state board that home owners can go to when they have a beef with their contractor, see if FL has a program. Document all the issues and at this point you at least have a little leverage if he wants his final payment.

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