We are looking to replace our furnace and air-conditioning units in the home that we purchased 2 1/2 years ago. While the AC unit seems to be OK the furnace seems to be on it's last legs. It is original to the house which was built in 1999.
we are currently in the process of getting quotes for a total replacement and I had our first company come out to quote the job. I have a couple questions as a result and I knew the knowledge base on this forum would be helpful in this regard.
Any input or suggestions are appreciated.
Our home had a basic contractor grade mass purchase Goodman furnace. Single stage. Basic. Also, slightly undersized.
The three Amana brand options that were presented were as follows.
1) Basic replacement. Single stage and appropriately sized. Most like what we already had in the home.
2) Slight upgrade. Upgrade to a two stage unit. Apx +$250-300
3) Big upgrade. Install a variable speed furnace. Apx +$800
We discussed high efficiency units but that was between 800-1000 more.
We have north eastern Ohio weather so nothing too extreme. Two story 1650 ish soft home and a smart thermostat. We were planning on upgrading the filter box to the 4 inch style (iirc)
Should we get the variable speed model and call it a day? He mentioned that in combination with the new AC will be the best combo for energy/ monthly bill savings.
Also, since I am here. Worth adding whole home humidifier setup? $439 extra
Just looking for some input. Thank you
What is the fuel? Is the AC just for cooling or is it a heat pump in which case the furnace is just the backup?
Duke
MegaDork
1/7/21 11:12 a.m.
What is the heating efficiency of the standard unit they are proposing versus the high efficiency upgrade?
Fuel is natural gas. AC for strictly cooling.
All three options above were 80% AFUE. While the upgrade to a high efficiency unit brought it up to 92 or 96 or 98 % efficiency. However that was more than we hoped to pay. That would be huge budget concern
No Time
SuperDork
1/7/21 11:46 a.m.
Any rebates on the higher efficiency units? That might bring the prices closer.
Duke
MegaDork
1/7/21 11:56 a.m.
In reply to CarKid1989 :
It's a matter of math. 80% efficiency is not terribly high these days, but it's better than the old 65% units.
Calculate out how long it would take you to recoup the cost difference between 80% and 92%. Decide accordingly. I wouldn't bother with the 96%-98% units. I bought the 92% when I did our furnace 10-15 years ago.
Personally, I also would not bother with the variable speed unit, though it is the most efficient. The 2-stage will reduce power consumption over always running the blower wide open, and the buy-in is modest. I would go with that.
We did add a whole-house humidifier. It's not a game-changer, but it does help with comfort in January-February. You'll have to remember to open / close a bypass twice a year. If dryness is a real issue for you now then I would probably do it. If it isn't, I'd put that money towards higher efficency on the furnace.
Is Ohio too much of a frozen wasteland in the winter to make a heat pump an attractive option? If you're putting in A/C and a furnace, I would think a heat pump and no furnace would be cheaper, unless you like your heat to be warm and not just a couple degrees warmer than the room temperature.
Duke
MegaDork
1/7/21 3:35 p.m.
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
Electric heat pumps only make sense if heating load is absolutely minimal or you're the cheapass landlord and the tenant is paying for utilities. I would never put one in my own house if I lived anywhere north of South Carolina, except maybe to serve a single remote room.
In reply to Duke :
I somewhat disagree with you on this - we went to heatpumps for cooling and heating (down to about 35F, then the oil burners kick in) and it's led to fairly substantial savings. The math might work different if you have gas central heating like the OP, though.
Duke
MegaDork
1/7/21 4:23 p.m.
In reply to BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) :
But you still have a backup oil burning furnace.
OK, I did my furnace at the end of last year and the A/C the beginning of this year. I was replacing a very old furnace, though the AC was still working at the time. The contractor suggested replacing both at the same time but since the AC worked, I cheaped out and just did the furnace. They were back to swap out the AC in about 4 months, lesson learned, do them both at the same time.
I was quoted as high as $25K for top-end stuff, but that's car money. I went with basic units for around $2,500/ea installed. My furnace is a Ducane 80G1, 80% efficient, basically the most basic furnace you can get. I looked at options for higher efficiencies, but the long term cost savings never outweighed the upfront cost savings. I guess gas is cheap here (thanks fracking!!). My house is not well insulated and the windows suck, and this thing does just fine when it is freezing outside. No complaints from me about buying at the el-cheapo end of the scale.
Went out and got 4 quotes. It was interesting seeing the various opinions and thoughts from different installers.
We were quoted for Amana, Goodman, Ruud and Concord which is a Lennox sub brand.
Any thoughts or red flags on those brands?
Learned a lot in this process and it's been kind of fun along the way
Duke
MegaDork
1/26/21 12:31 p.m.
Amana and Goodman are the same manufacturer.
I have had a Goodman 90% efficient natural gas furnace / AC combo for 13-14 years.
A year or two ago the gas solenoid failed. I replaced it myself with an easily-sourced $75 part.
Last weekend the draft inducer failed. Also easily found and replaced, and the part was $102.
The AC unit has never given any trouble. I have no complaints.
I mean, if you're feeling adventurous and want to do it yourself i can check the supplier's clearance page. I got a 95% and 80% gas furnaces from them for $300 each and my entire heat pump system was $1000. Also aprilaire systems are not expensive and you could diy that afterwards. Just a thought. I don't have my refrigerant cert so i can only buy certain things, but if you can slap a new same sized furnace in under your ac coil and ductwork you could do the AC at a later date