My transmission guy, who works for Chrysler says those automatics are overstressed, sitting in the driveway with the engine off.
My transmission guy, who works for Chrysler says those automatics are overstressed, sitting in the driveway with the engine off.
Duke wrote:rcutclif wrote: From this forum or its sister, what I really would love as a tow vehicle:That thing is cool, I'll grant you, but considering it was rated to tow a maximum of 3,000 lbs when it was a Caravan, I'm questioning the wisdom of that load out. And the longevity of the 41TE.
Mini Cooper weighed what, 1300lb? Plus an Austin Healey of maybe 2400lb? Take out the seats and all the metal for the enclosure (500lbs, in my uneducated estimation) it couldn't be too bad.
I also doubt he's completely on the original drivetrain.
SVreX wrote:Kenny_McCormic wrote: It's a matter of standardization, probably liability to some extent as well. Regardless of a lot of overlap in design constraints, a minivan axle is designed for minivan service, not a trailer. If it uses nonstandard bearings or hub units there is also concern over whether or not quality bearings will continue to be available. The hydraulic brakes are useful though, walk onto any uhaul lot and see how the bigger trailers are built. Spring loaded telescopic tongue with a master cylinder that applies whenever the trailer gets shoved towards the vehicle. I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.That telescopic tongue idea might work, but it doesn't make the hydraulic brakes useful. It would easily cost 2-3 times the cost of a proper trailer axle, and you'll never find one in a junkyard. Additionally, you can't use a brake controller, so towing would be more dangerous. What's the point?
The point is that it can be made to work, and work well enough whoever insures uhaul thinks it's a good enough system. That's not to say it isn't a dumb idea to try to engineer your own surge brakes.
I guess it depends on what its going to cost, but I think the rear axles are OK for a utility trailer. I have a farmer (homemade) built trailer that is almost 40 years old. They used old Ford vertical links welded to a square steel tube for the axle. I don't know what springs they used. The uprights are so old they have drum brakes. I pulled them apart a while back and took the bearings in to a Carquest. They got the numbers off the bearings and handed me a new set. I am looking for new tires for it now and it looks like they are going to cost at least $100 per side. So if you have friendly pull a part and can get the whole axle wheel to wheel, you might can save some bucks. When I saw how my trialer was made, it frightened me and I started checking out a replacement at Northern. It wasn't going to be cheap to fix a trailer I paid $50 for. I bought it from the company I was working for that went out of business.
Duke wrote:rcutclif wrote: From this forum or its sister, what I really would love as a tow vehicle:That thing is cool, I'll grant you, but considering it was rated to tow a maximum of 3,000 lbs when it was a Caravan, I'm questioning the wisdom of that load out. And the longevity of the 41TE.
I'm not sure I'd hook up a trailer behind it, but I wouldn't worry at all about having a nearly empty minivan with a 3000 lb car in the back instead of 3000 lb of stuff in the back. Lock it out of OD. Get a trans cooler and change the fluid. Don't try to run at 80 m.p.h up the side of the rocky mountains. If it breaks, get it rebuilt, can't be that hard.
Wasn't there a Grand Caravan model that had really high towing capacity? I think the GRMS folk used to use one. Pretty sure a neighbor of mine had one as well. They towed a pretty good sized camper with it.
If that chopped up thing is one of those, I'd suspect it's up to the job.
I tow a lot.
Surge brakes suck. They belong in boat trailers, rentals and that's about it.
A good, three-axis brake controller and electric brakes will work better and be cheaper than any surge brake system.
The only reason surge brakes still exist is you can submerge them in water at the the boat launch and not worry about them.
I used to ahve a Hardee tilt bed trailer with surge brakes...at least in theory. I'm not sure they ever worked. The ones on the U-haul auto trailer I last rented worked like a charm though. I think it has a lot to do with maintenance. When I lived in Alabama and towed a lot, I had a guy out by the Montgomery airport that ran a welding/trailer shop. He did all my trailer work and kept everything working fine. I wish I had someone like that here.
Trans_Maro wrote: The only reason surge brakes still exist is you can submerge them in water and have them corrode and turn to crap like all other boat trailer parts.
FTFY.
The best cure for boat trailer brakes is a bigger truck or a smaller boat.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:SVreX wrote:The point is that it can be made to work, and work well enough whoever insures uhaul thinks it's a good enough system. That's not to say it isn't a dumb idea to try to engineer your own surge brakes.Kenny_McCormic wrote: It's a matter of standardization, probably liability to some extent as well. Regardless of a lot of overlap in design constraints, a minivan axle is designed for minivan service, not a trailer. If it uses nonstandard bearings or hub units there is also concern over whether or not quality bearings will continue to be available. The hydraulic brakes are useful though, walk onto any uhaul lot and see how the bigger trailers are built. Spring loaded telescopic tongue with a master cylinder that applies whenever the trailer gets shoved towards the vehicle. I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.That telescopic tongue idea might work, but it doesn't make the hydraulic brakes useful. It would easily cost 2-3 times the cost of a proper trailer axle, and you'll never find one in a junkyard. Additionally, you can't use a brake controller, so towing would be more dangerous. What's the point?
Sure it can be made to work, but why bother, when the cost would be 3X the cost of buying one, and the results would be compromised at best.
The OP suggested FWD rear axles to save money, this idea doesn't save money, so what's the point?
Insurance really doesn't have anything to do with it. UHaul insures surge brakes because their average renter is clueless about towing. Surge brakes are safer when the driver is a moron who might not even know how to check their electric connection.
However, the average GRM poster is significantly more competent than this, and perfectly capable of learning how to properly use electric brakes. When you know how to use a brake controller properly, towing safety increases dramatically.
So, I would suggest that on a tiny trailer (which does not need brakes), FWD rear axles are useable, but the brakes are worthless and do nothing but add weight.
On a bigger trailer, FWD rear axles are possible, but a much more questionable choice (for reasons stated throughout this thread), but the brakes are still worthless, because you will have to engineer some kind of silly effort at DIY surge brakes which will end up costing you more than the trailer axles you should have used in the first place.
Pointless. Like this post.
In reply to SVreX:
We're on the same page man, you're arguing about nothing, pointless indeed.
Duke wrote: That thing is cool, I'll grant you, but considering it was rated to tow a maximum of 3,000 lbs when it was a Caravan, I'm questioning the wisdom of that load out. And the longevity of the 41TE.
Who says it has a 41TE? It might be a 3 speed/3 liter model.
Knurled wrote:Duke wrote: That thing is cool, I'll grant you, but considering it was rated to tow a maximum of 3,000 lbs when it was a Caravan, I'm questioning the wisdom of that load out. And the longevity of the 41TE.Who says it has a 41TE? It might be a 3 speed/3 liter model.
blew the rear planetary set sky high in a 3 speed. have the ATSG manual to prove it, rebuilt it myself. not towing.
my dad built a trailer for hauling firewood out of the woods based on a buick rendezvous IRS rear axle. 4 bolts and it's out. i was thinking of using one of those independent rear suspension cradles to build a trailer for my smoker.
patgizz wrote: my dad built a trailer for hauling firewood out of the woods based on a buick rendezvous IRS rear axle. 4 bolts and it's out. i was thinking of using one of those independent rear suspension cradles to build a trailer for my smoker.
That looks like a pretty cool idea.
it's common to find the rear spindles and hubs from a fwd car on fish houses around here.. but the only mileage they ever see is to the lake in December sometime and home from the lake on February 28 when the DNR says they have to remove it..
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