Golf Cart controllers?

I have an older (99 I think)  48V Club Car and a close by lightning strike I believe has fried the controller. The lights in the house didn't even dim but the emp wave has knocked out the strangest things.

We lost the new TV and the Direct TV box but none of the other TVs or boxes.

We lost our internet box.

Half of our powered sofa.

The control box for our AC.

It turned off all the thermostats in the house and reset them (but they are OK otherwise).

And now the golf cart is completely dead although the batteries are fully charged.

So my question is first how do I check to be sure the controller is fried and can I wire just about any controller to it?  It seems I could, although some seem to have regen which my cart apparently doesn't have.  If I used one of those controllers would that upgrade my cart or is that a totally different motor.

When I search for controllers I see from 250 amp to 600 amp controllers (although 600 amp seem to be for newer carts) so does the higher amps mean more top speed or just more tire burning torque?

Voltage in, voltage out. How much and where you measure are located on wiring diagrams. Find those. 

To answer your amp question, speed is determined by motor and voltage, amps are the torque end. Since you are keeping motor and battery, just make sure the controller can handle the amos the motor is rated for.

Based upon what I see on the internet I'm presuming my controller right now is 250 amps.  I'll be pulling it out tomorrow since I've got a busy night planned.

I guess I should see if my motor has any limiting factors on it's label.

But the voltage in and voltage out is how I was thinking of it.  There's just a potentiometer for the gas pedal so to me it seemed that I should get whatever controller I wanted until I began seeing Regen on a number of them and that's when I began to get cautious.

Yes, one made for the cart should have the proper connectors on it, but changing a connector isn't the end of the world.

As to speed vs. torque, then what do these hop up kits have in them that raises top speed?  It was my understanding that it was simply a different controller

The serial number will tell you the year. The first two letters are bodystyle and usually contain drive system, the next two numbers are model year, the next two are week of manufacturing  

something like AE9915 would tell us it’s a DS model, electric, with powerdrive charging system, 1999 model year, manufactured in the fifteenth week.

there is a lot of things that can cause a no go condition. Does the solenoid click?

Check for power to the key switch, power to the run tow switch, power on both sides of the solenoid with pedal down. Lots more to check before controller replacement.

If it does need a controller, I would replace it with a factory unit if it’s a Curtis controller. Go aftermarket if it has the GE controller. 

Aftermarket controllers don’t seem to last and tend to have less diagnostic support.

Flight Systems Industrial Products has tons of diagnostic information, including wiring diagrams, on their website under technical documents. They also remanufacture controllers.

Folgers said:

The serial number will tell you the year. The first two letters are bodystyle and usually contain drive system, the next two numbers are model year, the next two are week of manufacturing  

something like AE9915 would tell us it’s a DS model, electric, with powerdrive charging system, 1999 model year, manufactured in the fifteenth week.

there is a lot of things that can cause a no go condition. Does the solenoid click?

Check for power to the key switch, power to the run tow switch, power on both sides of the solenoid with pedal down. Lots more to check before controller replacement.

If it does need a controller, I would replace it with a factory unit if it’s a Curtis controller. Go aftermarket if it has the GE controller. 

Aftermarket controllers don’t seem to last and tend to have less diagnostic support.

Flight Systems Industrial Products has tons of diagnostic information, including wiring diagrams, on their website under technical documents. They also remanufacture controllers.

Well I know how my Sunday is going to go, that is after I help my grandson change out his 02 sensors on his Miata

A lot has happened since I posted this.  I found out that I have a grapefruit sized mass in my abdomen and will have it removed 2:00 P.M. CST, Friday 27th.

But as I'm trying to wrap things up,  I tested and apparently the controller was fried by the lightning strike.

I am going to try to link pictures from FB.   (OK apparently you can't like to FB pics)  My controller is a Curtis and is a 225 Amp model.   I've also included a copy of the tag on the motor and it's a 3.75 hp model.

So if I get a controller that throws out more than 225 Amps can the motor take it?  How many amps should I go since apparently you can get up to 600.

Regen needs a totally different motor, correct?  So many controllers have the regen capacity and my thoughts are that would take a different motor which I don't want to do.

While I probably won't be able to look at this thread till Sunday still give me your best guesses. because I will try to check in as soon as I am lucid.  Of course I can't do anything about fixing it for a while I can go ahead and order a new controller.

Sorry to hear about the abdomen mass, I hope there are no complications with its removal.

Folgers seems to have the best specific info, but I can give some general info.

All electric motors are also generators so all can be used for regen, the magic is just in the controller. The controller needs to be able to step up the voltage to allow the motor to regen charge the batteries by putting more volts to the battery than the battery had been putting out to drive the motor (same type of circuits that allow inverters to step up from 12V to 120V). Once they are using that technology, they can also have the controller put out more voltage than is coming in, hence you can increase top speed. Efficiency goes down in that step up process, but it still works.

Keep it 300 amps or less for motor longevity. 

 I would personally would go with a flight systems controller. The support is excellent and they are rebuildable. Give them a call and explain what your goals are.

The second best option is alltrax, most are programmable, and they are well respected in the community. They are potted and not serviceable. 

Im a professional golf car guy, at a dealer, but am not in anyway affiliated with any of the companies mentioned. 

Best of luck, grapefruit aren’t small!