One more blast from the past.
One more blast from the past.
And other name from the history books. My friend Kenny rode one back in the day--can't remember if it was before or after he got his Haro
David S. Wallens wrote: One more blast from the past.
Oh man... That's a brand I was pretty wound up about at one point...
Still a little foggy on what your needs are. Sounds like you already have the functional rides with your cross country and trails bikes. Seems like what you're looking for is something to strowl the neighborhood and have a conversation piece.
In regard to size, 24" - 26" may feel comfortable, but they are fast! Check the race times at races for the pro's. The same pro's usually run 20" and cruiser on the same day. Cruiser times will be quicker and the pro's say mistakes come quicker, too.
Now, if you aren't planning on extensive applications of Miami Hoppers or Lawn Mowers or launching over 911's like Stu Thompson, then there's no reason to go ahead and start out with an old school frame. Find yourself that Dyno frame of your dreams.
As mentioned before, there are 990 adapters. As a matter of fact there seems to be plenty of Hoffman NOS adapters always showing up. They work fantastic and I run them on my Superforks on the front of my Hoffman Big Daddy.
In the late 80's, several manufacturers began mounting 990 mounts on the back of their freestyle bikes. '87 Skyway Streetbeats were rare, but all '88's had them, GT Pro Performers, Dyno Pro Compe. However, I want to add this caveat. A well maintained side pull will work almost just as good. Priorities are 1) center adjustment - a "third hand" clamp aids in adjustment to make sure both pads are clamping at the same time. Also important while working with the third hand clamp, provided your brake pads have cone washers, is to shim the leading side (side your wheels spin into the brake location) with about 2 to 4 pieces of sticky paper works great for me. This "toes in" the brakes so when you apply them they'll lay flat. 2) Lubrication - just a touch of Phil Wood lube on the washers that sandwich between the brake arms, and most important - any place where the spring makes contact, wether it be in the slot in the center bolt or on the ends where they hook into the tabs on the arm. Another old pro swears by locksmith graphite spray for this. 3) Properly adjust that jam nut on top of your arms on the center bolt. THIS TAKES TWO WRENCES. Tighten the back nut just enough that there is no flex to the arms but not bind the arms. then lock down the top nut.
If you insist on the 990's, find just your favorite main frame with no forks with 990's on the bay - new school 1 1/8" non treaded forks with 990's are easily adapted to older 1" frames by mixing and matching headset parts and "uncaging" the 1" bearings. You will need to use a new school quilless stem, but there are a couple of retro options for them too.
In regards to wheel selection, 48's are ok but mags are just cool. More of a retro vibe. Kinda like Minilites on a Mini. I'm thinking disc'd or cassette Tuffs are a little too much over the line for resto mod. Besides, I know Skyway experimented with them, you could probably get them but it will crank up the budget as they are a one off. PlanetBMX.com aka Coloredtuffs.com has plenty of options in color, size, freewheel or coaster brake (Dizz Hicks kick turns, baby!) and even a return of graphites with with gold anodized hubs (but they aren't Campy's). Again, maintenance is key to good brakes and running Tuffs (or ACS Z's). Occasionally pull the pads and scuff them on a flat surface with a mid grain sandpaper. I used to lay my sandpaper on glass and sand the pads over it. Brake surface cleanliness on Tuff's is also key. Most guys rode around with a bandanna in our pockets (or around our legs). We'd be drinking our Coke's and also sacrifice some to the brake gods. Spill a little on the bandanna and wipe down the brake surface on the mag. Nowadays Simple Green works even better. Another consideration is that Skyway has also been making a much improved brake pad for the Tuffs. These are also available @ Planet BMX.
Owning an oldschool BMX is alot like owning a car with SU's. Pain to maintain and adjust, but when it's dialed it's like riding a dream. Another key is going to contradict alot of what you heard in auto maintenance. Keep the Locktite away. Threaded bolts and nuts, splines for 3-piece cranks, pedal shaft threads and seat post tubes. . . GET GREASED.
I tell you what, though. For a good starting point, I've been eyeing this up for a while:
Pull the newschool decals off, a set of Tuff's, tanwall tires (they're making a comeback), Redline Flites, they still make them but they're double pinch. Or Profiles. More expensive but hasn't changed in years since they switched from the box formed cranks. Power disc, chainring and one of SE's retro lightning bolt seats.
Another company porkchopbmx.com is also a good sourse for retro stuff, but the owner tends to raise some "ire" in the purists.
One more thing. Vintage BMX is also a community just like we are here. We have our gatherings where we drink beer and swap stories. We do rides (imagine 40 guys over 40 invading Central Park on neon 20" bikes!). Rockport gathering can run a little expensive but you'll meet alot of old pro's and legends. There's alot of good people out there who will help a newbie out. . . there are also purists who will slam you if your build goes in the wrong direction, just like here if you over camber stance a 2002tii and roll it on 20's and give it a rust patina.
I believe that your best starting point would be to check out the vintage communities.
Since they're not really a competitor to this site, I hope it's ok to list them:
bmxmuseum.com vintagebmx.com bmxsociety.com
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