Help me ID this closet flange

Since you guys know your sh#t...

Replacing a leaky toilet, this one was stamped 1955 on the bottom.  Pictured below is our small bathroom with 1/2" sub floor already removed (there was plywood on top of the ship lap.

I've never seen a closet flange with a lip before.  I dont think the wax ring is going to seal to this rusty mess.  Any ideas how to fix this?  Drop in one of those repair flanges?

The other thing to note is that the gap between the flange & ship lap look like it's less than 1/2" - should the sub floor go underneath this?

One more thing, was plywood dimensional back in the 50s?  I'm pretty sure the sub floor is 1/2" not 19/32 or whatever plywood is these days...

Thanks!

I've been having good luck with the foam toilet rings.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about a 32nd difference in floor thicknesses.

My opinion is to use a wire wheel to clean it up as best you can and use a wax seal. The wax seal is just like using a thick bead of silicone sealant on the ends of a sbc intake. They will make up for a lot of imperfections. Also the seal only has to hold when you flush otherwise the water is sitting in the trap of the commode.

That is exactly what a wax seal is designed to seal.  If the pipe is solid, the bolts are in the right place, find the right thickness of plywood to bring your floor up and bolt the john down.

In reply to wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) :

I'll second these. No mess, semi-reusable, and easy to work with.

Thanks for the tips.  Now that I have the new subflooring in & started putting down the LVP I see that the wax ring actually seals to the top of that lip, I thought it was used for locating the ring.

Anyway, the top of that ring is about 1/2" over the floor height.  I dont think it's an issue unless the wax ring gets squeezed too much.  Maybe I'll get a foam ring, they look pretty sweet.

Even though there are slots for the toilet hold down bolts, if the weight is on the flange and not the floor I see problems in the future.

That looks like a flange that's slipped over the pipe and leaded in with molten lead. As a kid I'd watch my father do this when he did side jobs for friends and neighbors.

If the pipe sticking up above the flange is the problem I'd cut it with a cut off wheel. Cut it off flush and you should be good to go.

You don't have to cut all of the way through the pipe as it's cast iron and will crack along any score line you make.

Yes, thats exactly what it was.  My wire brushing revealed lead between flange & pipe...  it's all better now:

Your TP has a face mask?