Our soaring club acquired a 20 footer to keep the golf carts and lawn mowers in, this keeps "Hangar Rash" off the planes. The thing is made f 3/16" thick corrugated steel, each flat & dip are about 4" wide.
I'll bet it gets real hot in there in the summer! Gas in the vehicles dissipates into the air already and it's quite mild outside. Looking for recommendations to move air tough the box.
Thoughts?
What cutting implements do you have? (plazma, sawzall, angle grinder with cutting wheels)?
Get some flat sheet, make what is basically a short awning from the top corner that goes down at something like a 45 degree angle. (like a foot or two long). lengthy holes in the top of the walls that come maybe halfway down the "awning". This will keep rain out and being up high will allow the hottest air to escape. You may also want to add screening over the holes to keep critters out. (gorilla tape cloth screening is easy route)
Any breeze and it should be pretty good.
I would cut 3 ribs, leave two, cut another three (or whatever number makes sense) they are built for stacking and I doubt your snowload will require more than 1/3rd the remaining strength.
Also, what color is it? you may want to repaint it in a lighter color, IIRC the Sanford thread discusses some heat reflective paints.
4" solar vent!
This is just an example, lots versions out there. But they work good, and just need sun
GameboyRMH wrote:https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Best-Economical-Aluminum-Roof-Vents_60050666129.html HTH
Those are available at your local Lowes or HD. We had one put on our house, and it rocks.
Still need to add an inlet someplace for a really effective vent system.
Consider the prevailing wind direction when you decide where to put your fans. I like the solar vent idea, but why not go grassroots?
Remember that you need a way for air to get in to replace the air being exhausted, so a louvered or hooded opening on the wall opposite the fan.
In reply to Grtechguy:
Beat me to it.
1988RedT2 wrote: Consider the prevailing wind direction when you decide where to put your fans. I like the solar vent idea, but why not go grassroots? http://autoweek.com/article/wait-theres-more/using-cheap-junkyard-car-parts-make-solar-powered-attic-ventilator Remember that you need a way for air to get in to replace the air being exhausted, so a louvered or hooded opening on the wall opposite the fan.
That's how I'm planning on venting my greenhouse.
Exhaust low, fresh air up high if you think gas fumes will be a problem otherwise exhaust high and intake low for help with from the stack effect. Look at 10 air changes per hour or [8.5' x 8' x 20' x 10 ACH x (1 hr/ 60 min) = 224 CFM] 224 CFM. Should be able to find an toilet fan to do that, just make sure it has some static pressure capability at the rated CFM. 0.25" of water column would probably be more than enough. A brick vent that measures 16"x8" with 61 sq in of free area makes ~500fpm inlet speed, so it shouldn't pick up too much dirt/snow/water. 8 in round ductwork from the fan to the wall cap with a built in backdraft damper.
Dryer vent cover for air inlet.
I'm not sure of the feasibility of this plan, but I'm compelled to share:
I lived in a passive solar house that had vents at the very top, as well as vents at the very bottom (in your case, maybe floor with expanded sheet metal to keep varmints out). The house was basically a glass box, so, as the sun heated the air inside, a convection current was created. Hot air escaped up top, while cool air was drawn in at the bottom. It was great. A light, cool breeze was plenty to keep comfortable. Of course, it was built into a Colorado mountainside. Weather something similar will work on a metal box or not, I don't know. It seems like said metal box would heat up plenty to create the convection.
I would make a vent low on one end and one high on the other. The air will duke it out sometimes, but fuel vapors are heavy and they can escape through the lower vents, hot air will rise out the upper vents.
I agree with the dryer vent option, but it may take several to provide adequate airflow to do much good. I would suggest a solar-powered fan, but A) cost, and B) electricity and fuel vapor don't mix well.
Honestly, I might consider just cutting a couple slots; maybe 2" high and 18" long up near the top and then attaching some sheet steel/aluminum over it for a little 4" awning and cover the holes with screen to keep birds out.
Your other engineering feat will be the corrugated sides. Maybe hole saw out some 3" cores in the valleys and cut some sheet steel awnings with angled sides to fit over top.
Is the roof corrugated as well? If not it might be easier to vent the top
Another option: Call an HVAC place. They often have piles of take-out HVAC squirrel cage fans. Cut a 6" x 12" (or whatever size) hole and tack weld that puppy on the outside blowing in (somewhere higher on the box) with a similar vent low on the other side.
I say blowing in and up high to prevent fumes from getting near the motor.
In reply to Grtechguy:
I knew somebody had to say it
There is a great vent that is specifically made for shipping containers and sea cans. Super easy to install...
https://www.thecontainerguy.ca/product/big-air-45-louvered-gable-vent/
You're welcome! :)
This is the most relevant canoe I have ever seen.
I haven't installed them yet, but I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHT93VS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00448HT5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The goal is to put the little round vents down low in the front doors, and the fan up high on the back wall. I didn't want to poke any holes in the roof. I've got a 100W solar panel and accessories to keep a car battery charged, a timer for the fan, and a bunch of 12V LEDs for light.
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