I'm finally taking the plunge and buying a compressor for the shop. I don't have the exact compressor picked out, but I figure that something that can support 10+ SCFM will work, and have a 60 gallon tank or more.
One thing that concerns me is running lines, not really for distribution, but for water condensing/removal. Shop size is 24 x 42 -- I was thinking of running a line up one wall (8 feet or so), across the shop (24 feet) and then down the opposing wall. That gives me a tap on either side of the shop for air and 2 drains.
What are folks doing here for shop air distribution? Also - what is preferred material -- pipe or copper? Will NOT consider PVC.
thx!
We ran black iron water pipe. Personally, every outlet needs to be a tee with a short piece of pipe and drain installed under the outlet for water removal BEFORE starting the compressor again. This is on top of a water trap inline with the outlet. On the outlet pipe on the tank make sure that run of pipe is pointed HIGHER then the outlet. It only needs to be like an inch or so. that way the water will drain back into the tank to be removed.
@Ranger50 -- any issues with excessive rust when using the black iron?
Black pipe is the answer.
The question is raised a few times a year at practicalmachinist.com and after the dire warnings against using PVC die down, the answer from those with actual experience is black pipe. Drip legs are important!
TP Tools has a lot of solid information.
Also - when you do it, buy your supplies from a real plumbing/gas fitters supplier, not Home Depot or Lowe's. All of their pipe and fittings are of Chinese manufacture anymore and the stuff is really poor quality. And use paint-on type sealant, not tape, and have a big vise and 2 good pipe wrenches.
I've had black pipe installed in my shop for a few years now, with very positive results. Pipe it correctly with slope and droplegs at each distribution point, and you'll be in good shape. I also have a large oil/water separator installed in my system, but it rarely sees any action. The first dropleg (upstream of separator) has never produced more than a drop or two.
It doesn't hurt that I am running a 60 gallon compressor, and not a huge volume of use, but I can still blow air on a white sheet of paper without any moisture or oil transfer.
I would only disagree with what Motomoron said on one point- I had a good deal of leaks to chase down on joints where I used pipe dope because I ran out of teflon tape. No leaks at the teflon joints.
There is a sealeant used for gas connections and one for water/drain connections, use the one for gas! I have used galvinized pipe for my compressor lines. I feel that black pipe can form rust inside the pipe from condensation and cause problems with your air tools down the road.
There is a version of plastic pipe that I would use for air but it's not available at your local Lowes, HD, or Menards. A plumbing supplier would have it. All pipe has a spec - Schedule 40 is common pipe, what everyone can get locally. There is a Schedule 80 that is used in industry and is a heavier/thicker pipe. With either schedule the correct type is CPVC which is gray and not the white PVC. It can handle well over 500 PSI in the size one would use for air lines.
Thanks folks!
Motomoron -- thanks for the TP Tools link -- they have a nice diagram that I can use to put everything together. It's basically what I was thinking -- didn't know that the (er, drops) had to go up first before they went down -- guess that's to help condense the vapor out of the airstream.
thanks again!
orphancars wrote:
didn't know that the (er, drops) had to go up first before they went down -- guess that's to help condense the vapor out of the airstream.
Also note the horizontal runs should slope back towards the compressor, so any moisture runs into the tank and not into your air tool.
So I just made a run to the big orange store for a few things and I priced out some piping.........I was a little surprised at what I saw.......
It looks like copper 1/2 inch and black pipe are about the same cost wise. Further, connectors/elbows are more expensive in iron vs copper. Copper would be easier to work with (cut to length), lighter, but a little more difficult to sweat and assemble.
Also.......anyone have anything to say about the kits that Eastwood sells.....the blue pipe and push to connect fittings?
