EvanR
EvanR HalfDork
8/4/13 10:09 p.m.

A couple of threads in the Builds forum got me to thinking about building my own camping trailer. Unlike the other fellows, I wanted something I could sleep in, not on top of or near. Therefore, the HF 40x48 trailer was not my starting point.

A visit to CL, and I found this beauty. According to the seller, it was originally used for a quad, then later modified for a PWC. It's 11'6" from tongue to tail, and when it's built, will have an 8' long deck, plenty of room for sleeping inside, with some additional storage room.

My cost, $160, delivered. (Yeah, I need to think about buying a hitch soon!) It needs tires to be really roadworthy - it's got 12's, not 8's like the HF trailers.

I've already stripped off the boards and hardware, and started sanding down the paint for a coat of Rustoleum. Look for a build thread soon!

JoeyM
JoeyM Mod Squad
8/4/13 10:26 p.m.

Cool! Do you have any plans? Have you picked a body style? I know that you can get plans for the teardrops.

http://www.kuffelcreek.com/teardrops.htm

EvanR
EvanR HalfDork
8/4/13 11:02 p.m.

Owing to the tapered nose, I think a teardrop is out of the question. I'm visualizing something like an inverted, deep-hull rowboat.

novaderrik
novaderrik UberDork
8/5/13 2:08 a.m.

why are you painting it before you build anything on it?

logdog
logdog GRM+ Memberand Dork
8/5/13 5:01 a.m.

Nice find!

EvanR
EvanR HalfDork
8/5/13 10:53 a.m.
novaderrik wrote: why are you painting it before you build anything on it?

Well, there isn't much rust but surface rust, and the paint is really chalked. I want to get it cleaned up and a base coat on it, so I don't feel like I'm starting with crap. There will be more paint applied as the project goes on, but it's easier to get at the bottom side before the structure is built.

motomoron
motomoron Dork
8/6/13 5:25 p.m.

On the $500 craigslist deck-over I redid last year, step one was remove everything that wasn't welded on, and some stuff that was, ie. the deck, all wiring, and everything on the axles.

Then after buying 1 gallon each of Rustoleum rusty metal primer and satin black, using wire wheels in a 4-1/2" angle grinders I went over the whole thing. I did it on a dry day when I had enough to to get it fully prepped and primed.

After the angle grinder work, I hit all the tight spots with hand wire brushes and scotchbrite, then blew it off w/ a leaf blower. I sprayed/brushed a couple coats of the primer on followed by a couple quarts of the black a few days later.

Then I installed new brakes/bearings/wheels and tires/wiring/lights/decking/tie down anchors.

Brand new deckover that fits up my 8' wide driveway for a grand, all in.

aussiesmg
aussiesmg UltimaDork
8/6/13 6:14 p.m.
EvanR wrote:

Was that is a Top Gear, Caravan race recently?

Lof8
Lof8 GRM+ Memberand New Reader
8/6/13 6:39 p.m.

cool. I'm in to see how this goes.

EvanR
EvanR HalfDork
8/7/13 2:40 a.m.

Well, she's stripped of all extraneous hardware. Surface rust, chalked paint, and antique bumper stickers scrubbed off with a hi-speed, 4", roloc-style scrubby in the angle grinder. At least the top side is. Primed with Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer on the exposed surfaces.

Titled and plated today.

Facing a design lock. See how the crossmembers are mounted below the C-channel main frame? That means there's nothing to support the plywood deck. So now I need something that measures 2" x 3" to go on top of the crossmembers to bring them even with the frame.

2x3 lumber is not 3"

2x3 steel adds weight.

2x3 Aluminum adds $$$ and promotes galvanic corrosion when butted up to steel.

The only solution I can come up with would be to rip some 2x4 lumber down to 3" wide.

Which requires a table saw.

Which I don't have.

Hasbro
Hasbro Dork
8/7/13 2:52 a.m.

Home Depot and others will rip for a small charge or buy a circular saw.

Ranger50
Ranger50 PowerDork
8/7/13 6:06 a.m.
EvanR wrote: The only solution I can come up with would be to rip some 2x4 lumber down to 3" wide. Which requires a table saw. Which I don't have.

An excuse to buy more tools and you aren't???? What is wrong with you!?!?!?!

wae
wae Reader
8/7/13 7:27 a.m.

For the 2x3, is the 2" important? You could use a couple 2X-whatevers and stack them up. 1.5" + 1.5" = 3" and now you just have to worry about overhang?

oldopelguy
oldopelguy Dork
8/7/13 8:26 a.m.

Usually the bunks and rollers attach to the front or back side of the cross members and not the top. Follow that lead and use a 2x6 or 2x8.

Alternately, since your cross braces are so far apart, maybe you want 2x6 front to back on top of your cross members on 12, 16, or 24" centers (based on your flooring) and 2x3 on top of the side rails. Makes screwing the floor down easier anyway.

pinchvalve
pinchvalve GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
8/7/13 8:37 a.m.

Just some random inspiration for you.

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