On my garage, I have one wall that is 2x6 and the other three are 2x4. Should I use R13 all around or should I use R19 in the one 2x6 wall and R13 in the other three walls?
On my garage, I have one wall that is 2x6 and the other three are 2x4. Should I use R13 all around or should I use R19 in the one 2x6 wall and R13 in the other three walls?
Fill it with as much insulation as you can, everywhere you can.
I see you are located in a subtropical region, so probably only cooling, mostly. The benefit of adding R19 over R13 on one wall is small, but if the budget allows, more is betterer.
Edit: I'll add that if the wall that would get the extra insulation is a south-facing wall, the extra insulation would probably be worthwhile for cooling, and if north-facing, or facing the prevailing winter wind, worthwhile for heating. Not that Alabamians have any need for heat. 
I am frequently amazed at how much warmer the rooms on the west-facing wall of this house get in the afternoon on a sunny day.
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
Agreed. Morer is betterer.
It won't hurt, but understand that it will be of limited extra value, since there will be lots of shortcuts for energy to escape through the undervalued walls.
R13 is highest value I can get in batte form to install in 2x4 walls right? I did R30 in the ceiling.
R13 is the highest r-value fiberglass batt that'll fit in a 2x4 wall. If you need better insulation there you'll need to use a foam board (more expensive).
How well insulated is the roof? The door?
93EXCivic said:R13 is highest value I can get in batte form to install in 2x4 walls right? I did R30 in the ceiling.
Rigid foam would provide similar or better R value, but also blocks wind/drafts which makes it more effective and comfortable too.
STM317 said:93EXCivic said:R13 is highest value I can get in batte form to install in 2x4 walls right? I did R30 in the ceiling.
Rigid foam would provide similar or better R value, but also blocks wind/drafts which makes it more effective and comfortable too.
Thanks. None in stock near me but I will look around.
How much extra does rigid board cost? TBH I am kind of running low on money so if it cost a lot more it may not be in the budget.
chaparral said:R13 is the highest r-value fiberglass batt that'll fit in a 2x4 wall. If you need better insulation there you'll need to use a foam board (more expensive).
How well insulated is the roof? The door?
I put R30 batt between the trusses before it is drywalled.
The door is insulated but Idk value or anything.
Local big box store has rolls of pink R15 for 2x4 walls not in stock but can get some in a few days. It is 46% more cost at the time of my check just now vs. R13, same brand etc.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:Local big box store has rolls of pink R15 for 2x4 walls not in stock but can get some in a few days. It is 46% more cost at the time of my check just now vs. R13, same brand etc.
Really I am seeing $4 more a bag ($64 vs $68) at Lowes.
I wish I had of check Lowes when I was buying insulation for the ceiling. The stuff they have in stock is whole lot cheaper then the stuff I bought at Home Depot. I could have got R38 (which they didn't even have in stock at Home Depot) for less then I bought R30 for.
Approx $17.50 for R13 roll, $25.50 for R15, both Owens Corning.
Actually just noticed that the R13 roll is 32 feet long, R15 is 25, so it's actually worse than 46% more. You get the idea though, it's going to cost more, to a degree that may become noticeable.
I might still pimp for the R15 for my own garage insulation project that I keep threatening myself with, at least for the walls. Under side of the roof needs to be touched up (they used the same material between the rafters with furring strips to hold it against the underside of the roof, not sure if that's the best way to do this...) and there I might just use R13 because I don't think this is as effective.
Don't stuff it in, place it in.
If you compress it, you lose R-value.
If you compress insulation for 2x6 walls into a 2x4 wall, you're just wasting money, not gaining any R-value.
ShawnG said:Don't stuff it in, place it in.
If you compress it, you lose R-value.
If you compress insulation for 2x6 walls into a 2x4 wall, you're just wasting money, not gaining any R-value.
Came in to remind folks of just this. Compressing actually lowers r value!
In reply to ShawnG :
Agreed. The R15 I found at HD is listed as meant for 2x4 stud walls.
03Panther said:ShawnG said:Don't stuff it in, place it in.
If you compress it, you lose R-value.
If you compress insulation for 2x6 walls into a 2x4 wall, you're just wasting money, not gaining any R-value.
Came in to remind folks of just this. Compressing actually lowers r value!
It's almost like it's the air that insulates and not the fibreglass.
In reply to 1SlowVW :
For those that don't know, the reason stranded 'glass insulates, is that it traps air. And dead air is a good insulator.
So... funny!
03Panther said:In reply to 1SlowVW :
For those that don't know, the reason stranded 'glass insulates, is that it traps air. And dead air is a good insulator.
So... funny!
Traps air or prevents it from moving?
Air seal before you insulate if possible. A tiny draft will bring humidity and leave it for you to enjoy.
If you are trying to put fiberglass insulation in rafter or floor joists from underneath, we would screw 1-1/4" drywall screws almost up to the head in rows spaced about 3 feet apart in a grid under the joists and would then string electric fence wire perpendicular to the joists wrapped once around each screw head. We could then thread continuous friction fit fiberglass over the wires into the joist space and the wire would hold it in place. Afterwards, we tighten the screws and hung the drywall. You only have to screw the wire up to every 3rd joist to hold the insulation up enough to drywall. Start about 1 foot away from the ends of the joists. You also just run the wire down one row, stretch over to the next row and continue. No cutting the wire until the end and it is easy to pull very tight. (Edit: start feeding the insulation from the middle of the span in both directions. It helps to have at least 2 people.)
In reply to alfadriver :
For y'all that finished their edgumacations, there is prolly a subtile difference there , but for us folks what's ain't smurt as y'all, it's close enough.
Or were you being a dick? I often can't tell?
alfadriver said:03Panther said:In reply to 1SlowVW :
For those that don't know, the reason stranded 'glass insulates, is that it traps air. And dead air is a good insulator.
So... funny!Traps air or prevents it from moving?
Both
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Electric fence wire sounds like a great solution. Thanks!
VolvoHeretic said:Both
It's a great insulator until there is enough room for it to develop convective currents and then it's *really* bad. Most insulations are just good ways to pack air, cheaply, and minimize those open air spaces.
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