Follow up on this. We went for my wife's cousin's wedding - he married a woman from Potenza. Nobody seemed interested in the fact that my favorite tires were Bridgestone Potenza's.
Our planning was not great. This was due to a number of factors:
- First, we were unsure that we (my wife, myself, and my brother in law) were going to be able to go. When we bought our plane tickets, we had all our ducks in a row. And then the ducks promptly swam off, flew off, and waddled off in 17 different directions. My Father in law had knee surgery 3 weeks prior to our departure, and ended up in the ICU. My Mother in law has MS. E36 M3 was hitting the fan. But it worked out, we went.
- Second, my brother in law was involved with everything. I don't intend to denigrate him, but he could berkeley up a one car funeral. When we got back, I was very proud of myself, that I had not killed him.
- Third, and related to both of the above, the entire trip - less some meals and 2 nights of hotels - was covered by the father of the groom, but through my brother in law. So it was a lot of phone tag with a less than reliable middle man, and planning by committee.
That said, it was a phenomenal trip.
We landed in Rome, and first thing we did was a tour of the Vatican. It was 102, the hottest day of the year to that point. The Vatican museum buildings are pretty old. AC isn't really a thing. The takeaway? I wanna go back to do this again, and take 3x as long as we did... in April or October. But it was incredible. I loved it.
At the end of tour in the Vatican, we'd been 8 hours on a plane, 1 hour in a taxi, 2 hours waiting for our time slot in a cafe, and 3 hours in 100/38 degree walking tour. We were bushed. We had train tickets, but I tried to get a rental car instead just to get us into the AC 3 hours earlier. That didn't pan out. So we got on the train. High speed trains in Italy? Awesome.
We got off in Foggia. Not really a tourist destination, but a friend of a friend picked us up and drove us the rest of the way to our destination for that first night. Foggia to Matera should take 1:45 per google maps. Our friend did it in 1:15. I love Italian drivers.
Matera. Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By some estimates it is the 3rd oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. Until the 1950s, people were literally living in caves. Coming around the corner, seeing the lights of the city in the dark… it was quite literally breathtaking. In the day, just as beautiful. A town built into a mountain. James May had 20 minutes on it for his Italy season of “Our man in” series. I recommend it.
But the bad part about Matera - other than the steps and extremely slippery streets/steps/sidewalks - is getting there. There is just no good way.
From Matera, we went to Positano by private car. Expensive way to do it, but again, no easy way to get to/out of Matera, and I wasn’t paying. Positano is on the Amalfi Coast. This might be the most beautiful [developed] place on the planet. We spent a day on a boat, it was easily among the best days of my life.
From Positano, we got on the ferry to Salerno, and from Salerno, the high speed train to Rome. 2 more days in Rome, we got a peek at the pope, saw St Peter’s Basilica, the Coliseum, some seemingly random churches that just so happened to be designed by some dude named Michelangelo… it was amazing.
I haven’t even mentioned the food. The entire time there, I had 2 bad dishes (one of which I knew was going to be bad when I saw cheeseburger on the menu, my BIL picked the place; the other was course 6/10 at the wedding), and one meal where the food was good but everything else about the experience was bad. Other than that, it was awesome everywhere. We even stopped at a McDonalds out of convenience - we needed to charge our phones and use the toilet, we were there for 15 minutes, but the McD’s was tremendous too.
What would I have done different?
- I’d have liked to be there longer but life doesn’t always allow for that.
- I’d do it at a different time of year.
- I’d travel without my brother in law.
- I’d rent a car for much of it - I’d heard horror stories about driving in Rome, but I honestly thought it looked very similar to driving in Chicago, just more scooters to watch out for.
- I’d have gone to Capri.
- I’d have searched for places and hotels that catered less to Americans. And I’d go north too. But again, time was an issue.
10/10, highly recommend it.