Looking for a 2nd car to take the pressure off of the miles on my 2011 Hyundai that already has 30K on it. Looking for a sub $3000 (prefer sub $2500) manual-trans econo-car and seeing lots of Saturns in the mix. I am in Wisconsin, where road salt eats cars alive...and with the plastic body panels, the Saturns seem to look better cosmetically than some of the other makes/models. I also understand that they have timing chains. That is a plus as well.

What else to know/look for on these cars--seem to see a lot in the 1996-2001 range?

They sold craploads of the first gen cars. I'm sure other Saturn experts will chime in. I recall their being head gasket issues on some of them, but they've probably all been fixed by now. From my collision repair background, the one thing on Saturns that always gets bent if the wheel takes a hit is the cradle. The control arm is actually stronger. Look for bends where the control arm mounts to the cradle. The plastic panels are pretty cool; you can just switch them out if they get broken. But, they will flex enough that the metal framework behind gets damaged while the outer panel doesn't look bad. For myself, I find the seating position too low for an everyday car. The engines are noisy and have what I'd call 'adequate' power. People that have them seem to love them, but I total a lot of them because they aren't worth much now. Saturn specific parts, if you have to buy new, are sometimes a wait (though I can't say anything has been unavailable).

I sent dad over to check this out...and it did. He's got over 40 years in the car biz--was pretty happy with it. Sound mechanicals, burned clearcoat on hood...very clean interior. 1997 SW2 with 111K and a clean carfax--bought for $1950.

ST_ZX2 wrote: I sent dad over to check this out...and it did. He's got over 40 years in the car biz--was pretty happy with it. Sound mechanicals, burned clearcoat on hood...very clean interior. 1997 SW2 with 111K and a clean carfax--bought for $1950.

If you tell me it's a stick, I'll murder you in your sleep and steal it. I'll be in Mexico before anyone realizes you're gone!

(was that too morbid?)

By 111K, if the timing chain hasn't been done, get it done now.

Pre 2000's burn considerably more oil, so keep an eye on your oil level.

Yep--Its a stick. Timing chans need to be done? Interference/or non? OK on the oil consumption--thanks...

Interference. No need to do the chain unless its been noisy/there is evidence of neglect. Infrequent oil changes can clog the tensioner and accelerate wear, but unlikely by 110k miles.

All of them burn oil eventually - no drain-back holes behind the oil control rings.

There are no HG issues - there is a head cracking issue, but that's limited to SOHC cars.

Rust spots are front cradle, and door sills on a 1G car. Other than that they are well protected. The plastic panels are nice. You really can't dent them very easily. The clear coat thing surprises me, because they have very good paint compared to many other cars I've owned. I've never had one peel, and its very hard to chip it. And my care for the paint is best described as "neglect"

"Adequate power" describes it well. Similar to almost any other FWD "sport" economy car from the 90s ~125 hp, ~2300lbs. It'll run high 15s stock.

Biggest thing to watch for is blowing the diff pin out. If you ever have the trans out take the time to weld it (the PIN, not the DIFF). One wheel burnouts or even steady one wheel spinning (stuck in snow) can heat the spider gears and push the pin out through the side of the case. Its ugly. If you have traction control, don't have to worry about it so much as it will babysit you and keep that from happening pretty well.

Maroon92 - Are you not able to find a stick wagon or something? I just sold one for around that price (with gobs of goodies too). I see them on Craigslist constantly. I'd say >50% are manuals also.

I prefer the 1st gen sw2... with a manual pls...

Are the e-bay AEM knockoff CAIs at all worth while?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-WASHABLE-FILTER-COLD-AIR-INTAKE-91-99-SATURN-1-9-DOHC-95-02-SOHC-RED-/160659757992?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2568115ba8

I know where you could score a set of Saturn wheels with one-season-old snow tires. You know my number.

Winning!

my only experience with them was a friend at work. He had an hour commute and drove one for years at 40+mpg. He only got rid of it after it started burning a quart with every fill up

Picked the car up this morning!

I logged into sixthsphere.com...what are the other preferred Saturn (performance) sites?

Congrats! Lotta Saturn love here lately (runs off to Craigslist)

Yeah, sixthsphere is about it for performance, proceed w/caution. SW2 manual is a much sought after model. Keep oil in it and it will run damn near forever. CAI = not worth it. You got a good deal on that car, it will serve you well.

CAI will pick up a bit of power. SPS used to sell a WAI + exhaust as the "21hp package". After bolt ons the car should dyno around 125whp w/o tuning.

It all depends on your intentions.

Anyone make a shifter? That was my biggest "complaint" thus far...

SPS seemed to be the exception to the rule when it came to a lot of things. They built nice stuff, they're gone now aren't they?

Car began loud ticking at idle tonight after a 20 mile expressway drive; is raining so did not spend lots of time under-hood. Sound seems louder on left side (when looking at motor), and more towards the top of the engine--guessing the timing chain/tensioner is the culprit. Is that type of noise consistent with a bad chain?

Not my video--but same idea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v3ssAEh00E

I was always under the impression that a worn timing chain is more of a whirring or whining, rather than a clicking. It may be a lifter. Because they can burn quite a bit of oil, keeping 4 quarts in them at all times becomes tricky, and the lifters can drain and cause quite a bit of noise. At least that was how it was explained to me, I've never actually screwed with lifters, except when I slide them out during an engine rebuild, check to make sure they're not gouged, and then slide them back in.

ProDarwin wrote: SPS used to sell a WAI + exhaust as the "21hp package". After bolt ons the car should dyno around 125whp w/o tuning.

I'mcuse me...did you say a WAI? warm air intake? really?

details?

I read through this thread:

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1998-saturn-sl2-engine-noise

They described a loud ticking/rattling sound...and it was diagnosed and turned out to be a chain.

My car did smoke some on startup, but it does have ample oil in it.

I had a 95 SL1 given to me with over 400,000 kms on it. It was the single cam engine with a 5 speed. I used it in an enduro race, not expecting much. It surprised the hell out of me. It wouldn't die. I ended up using the car the whole season, and won the 4/6 cylinder championship with it. I won 2 of the 6 races with it (2 races were rained out) One was a class win, and one was an over all win.

Only bad thing was the front sub frame was pretty rotted. We had to weld it up a couple times. Took a bad hit in the last race that bent that sub frame and decided to retire the car.

But after that, I would definately buy a Saturn. Just check the sub frame first.

CarKid1989 wrote:

ProDarwin wrote: SPS used to sell a WAI + exhaust as the "21hp package". After bolt ons the car should dyno around 125whp w/o tuning.

I'mcuse me...did you say a WAI? warm air intake? really? details?

SPS used to make one, as did Injen and a few other companies. Now its E-bay knockoffs only. The CAIs pick up more power. Probably the single best bolt-on mod you can do.

Regarding the timing chain... they should be good for the life of the engine. The lifters are noisy sometimes, or if the oil has been neglected the timing chain tensioner can cause it to make noise. How's the oil look? Do a "flush" of some sort (I just dump in 1/2 qt of trans fluid a few hundred miles before my oil change). Aside from complete neglect you shouldn't need a chain before 200K minimum. And I've had some really neglected Saturns.

The oil looks clean--definately had a recent change. It was quiet for about 50 miles. Then it started the noise--its pretty loud now. Like I said, it was noticed after a 20 mile interstate drive. Was not driving agressively--70mph or so in 5th. Got to the exit ramp...and when the car idled down at the stop sign I heard it. Power was good when at speed--noting felt wrong during the drive. Drove home about 1/2 mile and popped the hood. The video is pretty spot-on as to what I am seeing as well.

I did start the car yesterday and moved it about 50 feet--it did smoke and the noise was same.

It would seem that if it was the tensioner, it might as well have a new chain too if you're that far into it--right?