So I think most of us would agree that our garages are practically sacred and should be held dear to our hearts. I live in a neighborhood that isn't the worst, but also isn't the nicest and my garage is on the back alley. When working in the garage late at night I get a few questionable people walking past, so I'd like to make sure people aren't being too nosey when I'm not around.
Garage is a 20'x24' ish cinder block structure with 2 garage doors, a people door, and 4 windows.
1. The people door.
Currently the door I enter through doesn't latch, so I have one of the latches that take a padlock to both lock and secure the door.
I'd like to replace the door and have a proper latch, possibly one of those PIN code deadbolts, or a double keyed deadbolt.
What are my door options for metal doors? if I re-frame it, should I just build my own door out of 2/x8s or something so it's nice and sturdy?
2. Garage doors.
They both are going to need replaced pretty soon. What are my options here, keeping security in mind.
3. Other security
The windows both on the building, and on the door and garage doors I frosted with a spray frost so you can't really see inside. The building windows I put a sheet of plywood on the inside as well.
So I'm open to other suggestions for general security. I'm trying to keep the outside pretty low-key so as not to draw too much attention. I already get enough when I'm working with the garage doors open.
Batteries fail, I'm not a fan of the keypad locks (and I've installed over 100). On a garage with possessions I cared about I'd look into getting a steel exterior door drilled for a knob and a deadbolt. (Deadbolt keyed only on the outside, a key on the inside isn't what you want if you need to get out quickly!). Reinforce the frame/strike with extra long screws and possibly a steel plate.
Garage doors are best left to the experts, insulated is better.
Windows......if you want the light then bars I guess if you'd rather have the wall space then just block them up and be done with them.
Steel doors are decent, but any quality door unit from Slowes Depot will keep an honest man honest. They have steel and fiberglass. A determined crook can make it through any of them pretty quickly. I went the security camera route with mine. It's reasonably secure, and covered on all vulnerable sides by cameras tied into a DVR in the house.
KyAllroad (Jeremy) said:
Batteries fail, I'm not a fan of the keypad locks (and I've installed over 100). On a garage with possessions I cared about I'd look into getting a steel exterior door drilled for a knob and a deadbolt. (Deadbolt keyed only on the outside, a key on the inside isn't what you want if you need to get out quickly!). Reinforce the frame/strike with extra long screws and possibly a steel plate.
I currently use 2 keypad deadbolts elsewhere and like them and my parents have used 2 of their own for a few years now. I'm sure you're aware, but the physical key can still unlock it, so I like them a lot.
Maybe a moat? With sharks in it?
Sadly, probably not in compliance with your Boro ordinances. They might be considered 'prohibited pets'.
You just got to learn crazy eyes, maybe Chuck some wrenches or hammers around once in a while in a fit of anger.
No one berkeleys with the crazy guy that throws hammers, that's part of why my shop doesn't even have walls.
I guess you could just steal one of those "this home is protected by Joe blow security" signs to put in the window. Turns out just having a sign is enough to stop most random thieves.
The big thing with the man door is strong door frame, particular where the latch or lock goes. Burglars will try to kick in the door, which usually splinters the frame. There are kits with long hardened screws that you can use to reinforce the slot where the lock's deadbolt goes, or you can fab up something with sheet metal to reinforce it yourself.
For windows, if you alerady have them frosted over so you can't see throught them anyway you may as well cut out some plywood and board them up from the inside. Either screw them in place solid, or come up with some removable crossmembers to hold them in place.
For the overhead door it's easy to just put a padlock in the rail above one of the wheels on the door to lock it in place. Someone could come along and drive a truck through it to get in, but there's only so much you can do.
On the overhead doors use the sliding lock that they have putting on them for decades. Im talking about the ones that are on the side of the door and only accessible from the inside. They are cheap, simple, effective, and easy to install. A lot of people leave the locks off if they install an opener, i dont recommend this. Ive personally seen openers broke after thieves force the door. I dont know if an insulated door is more secure, but they are a much nicer door, quieter and more solid feeling. Especially the "fully wrapped" ones that the inside is one flat piece.
As for the windows, i built window bars for a shop i worked at. They are pretty easy. A piece of .125×1 flat bar above and below the window, and .25" round stock bars spaced about 4" apart.
Another trick ive seen was a motion sensor by the door hooked to a speaker inside, if you got close to the door it sounded like the worlds meanest german shepherd was ready to tear your face off.
I'd bar the windows from the inside before I just boarded them up. It would be more discrete, and still let some natural light in.
Some motion sensing lights on the exterior might help dissuade people too.
STM317 said:
I'd bar the windows from the inside before I just boarded them up. It would be more discrete, and still let some natural light in.
Some motion sensing lights on the exterior might help dissuade people too.
I'm not too worried about the natural light, as nice as it is. I have a pretty decent setup for lighting using a bunch of LED strips.
On the garage door side I do have a dusk to dawn flood light.
