Learn Me: Suits

Hello, I have been wearing cheap JC Penney suits since I was in 7th grade and am on my third. I am a cellist so all of them have been concert black. Now I am a business major and need a suit to wear for presentations etc. I don't want black and I don't understand the different styles or cuts beyond 2 button, 3 button, single button and 3 piece.

The business school I go to is formal enough but not too much so that it needs to be super traditional. A younger looking suit would be appropriate.

Can you enlighten me and explain the different lingo when it comes to styles and cuts?

Last of all should I buy a couple pairs of pants and blazers individually so I can mix and match or is it better to wear a single color?

Thank you for your advice!

Find a local men's store and ask away.

But for me, a cheap suit can look expensive when tailored to fit YOU. Or, never settle for "off the rack".

Make sure it's big enough.

Best thing I ever did was go to a good men's store. Doesn't have to be expensive but they should specialize in suits. They will help you find the right thing, explain the differences and most importantly find you something that fits you well.

In most business environments these days suits are rare. Mix and match of pants and blazers is more common if things trend toward the formal side. But you can never go wrong having at least one good suit on hand. I'm not a fan of the all black either, looks too MIB, rotting in my closet currently I have a dark grey, a very dark green (this one is less business though) and a dark blue. Usually single breasted are more common in the workplace (one row of buttons)

Double breasted are more of a formal/going out kinda thing

But above all find a place that will fit you properly, suits are uncomfortable enough as it is, an ill-fitting one makes it worse, and if you aren't comfortable you wont perform as well in a presentation.

Ideally you have more than one nice looking suit that fits properly. Slacks and blazers would be in addition to, rather than in place of, the suits.

I like single breasted, two pieces suits, generally speaking.

A cheaper suit that fits you well (good luck finding that) will look better than an expensive suit that doesn't fit as well. Your teachers and peers aren't likely to check your label.

Assuming you can find a suit off the shelf that fits well, shirts are actually harder to pick than the suit. Stick to low key colors with the suit. I like conservative color choices with the shirt as well. Add color with the tie if you must.

A tip - Buying large and then having it altered to fit gets you 80% of a tailored fit @ 20% of the price.

Go charcoal or navy. Don't do pinstripes. Get it tailored after you buy it. I'd go for a (relatively) traditional looking suit--it still fits in today, and it will 10 years down the road as well. I've always had better luck with separates. I don't like Men's Warehouse, I really feel like they are trying to sell you the suits they have, not the suit that fits best. I've personally had good luck at Macy's. There is a Ralph Lauren line still made in Canada that is a pretty good suit for the money. Also, Jos. A Bank has some pretty great deals out there, but everything is always on sale (it was never that expensive, except to be able to discount it). I'd look at their stuff with a little bit of caution--it is almost like a cheap suit in an expensive environment--but every one I've been in has salesmen that know what they are doing and won't steer you wrong.

Also, braces>belts.

JThw8 wrote: But above all find a place that will fit you properly, suits are uncomfortable enough as it is, an ill-fitting one makes it worse, and if you aren't comfortable you wont perform as well in a presentation.

Just my opinion, but I'd actually say that suit that's cut properly is infinitely more comfortable than jeans and a t-shirt.

MG_Bryan wrote:

JThw8 wrote: But above all find a place that will fit you properly, suits are uncomfortable enough as it is, an ill-fitting one makes it worse, and if you aren't comfortable you wont perform as well in a presentation.

Just my opinion, but I'd actually say that suit that's cut properly is infinitely more comfortable than jeans and a t-shirt.

Overall I would agree, but it seems most people dont share that opinion (probably because they have a poorly fit suit) Noone at work understands why I dont wear jeans on friday as is allowed in the office but I just dont find sitting at my desk in jeans all that comfortable. Give me a nice pair of dockers any day.

I work at the headquarters of a large financial institution and my last job was with a PR firm, so I've worn suits daily for years. Fit is king. If you're not sure what you want or what size you wear, try a couple of menswear stores in your area and only stay if their staff is genuinely interested in helping you.

My preference is for European-style suits which feature a slimmer, more tailored fit than traditional American suits. You can find examples of these at stores like Hugo Boss, Banana Republic, Zara and H&M (though I don't necessarily recommend buying from them).

DILYSI Dave wrote: A tip - Buying large and then having it altered to fit gets you 80% of a tailored fit @ 20% of the price.

I disagree - unless you're shopping at a thrift store, there's no compelling reason not to buy a suit that fits you (at least pretty darn close) at the time of purchase.

nderwater wrote: I work at the headquarters of a large financial institution and my last job was with a PR firm, so I've worn suits daily for years. Fit is king. If you're not sure what you want or what size you wear, try a couple menswear stores in your area and only stay if their staff is genuinely interested in helping you. [B]My preference is for European-style suits which feature a slimmer, more tailored fit than traditional American suits. [/B] You can find examples of these styles at stores like Hugo Boss, Banana Republic, Zara and H&M (though I don't necessarily recommend buying from them).

Ah hah! Thank you!

I have a feeling i'll be needing to buy a few soon, and i hate swimming in my clothes. With a passion.

mtn wrote: I don't like Men's Warehouse, I really feel like they are trying to sell you the suits they have, not the suit that fits best.

It probably depends on the people working at a particular store, but I've had good experiences at Men's Warehouse. In any case, check around in your area to see what stores are recommended - until they closed a few years ago I used to go to an independent store here that had been in business for probably 85 years (and I think some of the men working there were nearly that old.) It was great, those guys knew their stuff.

I'd also recommend going for conservatively styled suits or coats - they won't be out of style in a few years.

nderwater wrote:

DILYSI Dave wrote: A tip - Buying large and then having it altered to fit gets you 80% of a tailored fit @ 20% of the price.

I disagree - unless you're shopping at a thrift store, there's no compelling reason not to buy a suit that fits you (at least pretty darn close) at the time of purchase.

For me, I have to buy something to fit my shoulders. If it fits my shoulders, it swallows me every where else. But buying for my shoulders and then getting it altered results in a very nicely fitting suit.

I wore a suit five days a week for many years. The company dress code was pretty strict - sports coat and slacks were not allowed, and you could not be in a public area without your jacket on. I probably have at least a dozen still in my closet.

Most of the advice so far is pretty sound. Different cuts and styles look better or worse on different body types. I was partial to a two-button. Three-button never fit quite right and double-breasted made me look like a bellhop. I was lucky in that I could usually get away with an off-the-rack suit by just having the trousers hemmed and the sleeves shortened an inch. But they don't all fit the same, even from the same maker, so you have to try stuff on.

Several of my suits came from Brooks Brother's outlet stores - they were not the same quality as the main line stores but weren't bad. Jos. A Bank ain't what it used to be - they've come down in quality to meet a price point. Men's Warehouse has some okay stuff but they will try to sell you everything and anything. Nordstroms has a men's sale right after Xmas with decent deals on nicer suits.

Stay away from fads and get classic styles in traditional colors, have them drycleaned regularly and they will last a long time. Get a bunch of white dress shirts - everything goes with white. Make some smart choices with ties and you can get away with as few as 4 suits without looking like you wear the same clothes every day.

I got to the point where I was completely comfortable wearing a suit every day, and the best part is that you never have to worry about what to wear!

I paid my dues - now I work at home and wear t-shirts and shorts!

Do not got to extremes with styling. Don't go to narrow a lapel or buttons that come up to your chin.

Cuff on the pants

Check resale shops and estate sales, I have some jackets that would go $500-$800 retail that I have gotten for $20-$80.

carguy123 wrote: Cuff on the pants

Unless you're short ;)

DILYSI Dave wrote: For me, I have to buy something to fit my shoulders. If it fits my shoulders, it swallows me every where else. But buying for my shoulders and then getting it altered results in a very nicely fitting suit.

There are a couple of reputable sources here in Atlanta which offer made-to-measure suits from about $500 (a service I've not tried it yet). I'm curious - how does that compare to what you've paid to buy a suit off-the-rack and then get it altered?

DILYSI Dave wrote:

nderwater wrote:

DILYSI Dave wrote: A tip - Buying large and then having it altered to fit gets you 80% of a tailored fit @ 20% of the price.

I disagree - unless you're shopping at a thrift store, there's no compelling reason not to buy a suit that fits you (at least pretty darn close) at the time of purchase.

For me, I have to buy something to fit my shoulders. If it fits my shoulders, it swallows me every where else. But buying for my shoulders and then getting it altered results in a very nicely fitting suit.

Off the rack sizing has definite limitations. Needing a 28 inch waist in my case, means that if do find something with pants that fit, I'll rip the back out of the jacket the first time I reached forward.

nderwater wrote:

carguy123 wrote: Cuff on the pants

Unless you're short ;)

DILYSI Dave wrote: For me, I have to buy something to fit my shoulders. If it fits my shoulders, it swallows me every where else. But buying for my shoulders and then getting it altered results in a very nicely fitting suit.

There are a couple of reputable sources here in Atlanta which offer made-to-measure suits from about $500 (a service I've not tried it yet). I'm curious - how does that compare to what you've paid to buy a suit off-the-rack and then get it altered?

Suit from K&G - $149 - $199
Alteration - $50 +/-

Make sure you get one that, during the summer, you won't sweat like a whore in church in. My first suit is like really heavy and Alabama heat equals no fun. But I now work somewhere where the dress code is jeans and a polo or sweater.

For those of you who live in your suits, particularly the jacket. Is there a secret cut that lets you put your arms forward (to say the steering wheel) without cutting off circulation to your shoulders or pulling the cuffs up to your elbows?

What about a gusset at the back?

I live in Rochester where they still make Hickey Freeman suits, and I pick up a couple every year at their warehouse sale - $1k+ suits for $3-400. Yes, having the suit tailored to fit you is critical to having it look good, but that can't overcome cheap fabric and construction.

In reply to foxtrapper:

Proper tailoring of the shoulder helps, but I almost never drive with my suitcoat on.

All great advice. I will say, avoid the double breasted. If you do go that way a double breasted must be a suit. I made a mistake years ago and bought a (really nice) double breasted sport coat. As I learned more, I discovered that it is never really appropriate for anywhere. It send an odd message of being highly formal (which double breasted usually is) while being sort of casual (which a sport coat is seen as.) it is in my closet looking much like the day it was bought.
As supporting evidence on why you should not get double breasted; I give you Don Cherry:
http://www.lionsdenu.com/don-cherrys-21-most-outrageous-suits-ever/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFPuMzza9hk

Yes, if that was single-breasted it would be just fine.

The only suit I own is fireproof. I'm good with that.