914Driver
914Driver SuperDork
5/10/10 9:11 a.m.

Documenting cracks in metal using Magnetic Particle Inspection, you're in a dark booth using a black light to light up the crack. The old camera was pretty much point and click, great pictures!

The new Cannon EOS 50D will do everything I tell it, wonderful peice of gear. I don't know what to tell it !!!! Aaaaaahhhhhhhhh !!!!!!!

Can someone give a camera lesson in 25 words or less?

No, I can't box it up and ship it to you either.

Dan

Hocrest
Hocrest Reader
5/10/10 9:28 a.m.

I have a 50D, I've never been in the situation that describe. What do you want it to do?

Are you having trouble getting the focus correct? Getting the exposure correct?

uh oh... 31 words and I didn't even tell you anything yet...

John Brown
John Brown GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/10/10 9:42 a.m.

Increase F stop (aperture) and slow the speed down.

John Brown
John Brown GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/10/10 9:42 a.m.

BTW I know ABSOLUTELY nothing about cameras.

914Driver
914Driver SuperDork
5/10/10 9:44 a.m.

Thanks. I want it to take a picture under low light. My last camera (which died) was a Nikon point and click, Dan-proof.

This one not so much.

Kia_racer
Kia_racer Reader
5/10/10 9:46 a.m.

I am not that familliar with the Canon 50D. However, It should have a manual mode.

914Driver
914Driver SuperDork
5/10/10 9:51 a.m.

It does, the picture come out looking like a licorice gum drop in a train tunnel at midnight.

ansonivan
ansonivan Reader
5/10/10 9:54 a.m.

Can you take the camera home over the weekend? It's just like anything else, you need to mess around to learn how to work it.

Kia_racer
Kia_racer Reader
5/10/10 9:57 a.m.
John Brown wrote: Increase F stop (aperture) and slow the speed down.

Then do this in Manual mode until you get the results you are looking for. Look at rhe good side at least you can see the results now instead of having to develop the film and then find out you were wrong.

914Driver
914Driver SuperDork
5/10/10 10:06 a.m.
Kia_racer wrote:
John Brown wrote: Increase F stop (aperture) and slow the speed down.
Then do this in Manual mode until you get the results you are looking for. Look at rhe good side at least you can see the results now instead of having to develop the film and then find out you were wrong.

Yeah, you're right.

My boss if off to headquarters for three days, I'm headed to Arizona next week and everyone wants answers and photos NOW.

Haven't got time to take it home.

procainestart
procainestart Dork
5/10/10 11:30 a.m.

There's no easy way to describe it briefly, but I'll start with Cliffs Notes, described in more detail below:

--If your old point-and-shoot worked well under identical conditions, then it could just be that the 50D's ISO setting, which controls how sensitive to light the sensor is, is set to a really low value. I would first try to change it to Auto or High. If that doesn't work, manually set it to 400, try shooting, then bump up higher until the exposure works.

Set/Change ISO levels

You need to find the ISO control on the camera and see if it's set to a low number (200 or less). If it is, first try changing it to Auto or High, if it has a High setting. If this doesn't work, start bumping the ISO value up manually, one setting at a time (higher number = more sensitive, that is, better in low light). Note, though, that as you start to get into higher and higher settings, you'll get some noise in the image.

If Setting ISO Higher Doesn't Work

Do this (described below)

--Put camera in Program Mode

--Suppress flash, if necessary

--Retract lens all the way in, move closer to subject

Try is to see if it'll take the proper exposure by itself by putting it in Program mode (P): this may be a "P" on the circular dial on top, or in the menu somewhere. (Program chooses all settings for you -- it basically turns a very fancy camera into a point-and-shoot.)

Now in Program mode, if in your low light environment you do NOT want the flash, then you need to suppress it by finding the flash menu (or button) and force it off by choosing the icon that is most likely a circle and slash with a lightning bolt through it.

Now, if after putting it in Program and suppressing the flash the shots are still under-exposed, the next easiest thing to try is to back what I assume is a zoom lens all the way in and move the camera as close to the subject as possible. With the lens backed in, you get more light than when zoomed out, and the camera will work better with the available light.

Still Not Working?

If your shots are still not working, then, yes, at this point, put the camera in Manual mode, keep the lens backed all the way in, still as close to subject as possible, set the aperture, aka F-Stop, to the smallest number possible (this allows the most light in). Set shutter speed to something slow, like 1/30th of a second. If the shots don't work, go to 1/15th, try again...

pinchvalve
pinchvalve GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/10/10 12:44 p.m.
  1. Go to Wal Mart
  2. Buy simple point and shoot with night mode for $99
  3. Take picture and save day

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