Plastic glue&paint models

Hello all,

Inspired by a friend of mine I decided to get a scale model to mess around with. Also I thought maybe my 10 year old son might want to try it as well. Santa brought him a pretty simple FC3S RX-7 model for Christmas. My wife got me a cool Honda CRX Si model, and I recently got two new Mitsubishi Delica models from a company in Japan. I went out to the local hobby shop, and spent way too much on paint on Tuesday.

Last night I started painting some of the detail parts on the Delica, and quicly realized it has been a long time since I had done a model. Probably 30 years or better. Even when I did them as a kid I wasn't too good at it, but I enjoyed it. It seems maybe my vision isn't what it once was as it was tough painting some of the small things I was doing last night, but overall I was having a good time.

Regarding the decals for the Delica it seems these are different than I remember them being with the kits I had as a kid. These require soaking in water. I don't remember doing that, but maybe I did. Also the Delica kit came with masking decals for the various sky lights, and moonroofs for the van. I have no idea what these are for. Maybe there is a description in the instructions, but it's mostly in Japanese, and even the English seems a bit strange. Any help on that, or pro tips for a guy getting back into this after a long time is greatly appreciated. Also any help on how to get my 10 year old started is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

Good luck. I've never completed a stage 2 kit myself.

I have no idea what stage these kits are, but the Delica is super detailed. Down to the rear parabolic parking mirror mounted on the rear hatch.

Where'd you find the Delica kit? That sounds awesome. For glues I use a bit of super glue or Tamiya liquid cement. The decals are not too bad. Usually soaking them in warm water for 30sec-1min loosens them up and you can slide them off the paper onto the model. The masks for the glass are to paint the black edges. Place them on the glass, completely cover the opposite side with masking tape, and lightly spray the exposed edges black.

Superglue is great, just never use it on clear parts.

I use clear epoxy on the clear parts.

I did a ton of kits as a kid. Even went to the Intl Plastic Modelers meetings for a while. I bought a kit of my Mustang back when they first came out but after looking at how much I'd spend buying paint and glue it's still sitting on the shelf. Before Christmas I was in a local discount store and they'd picked up a pallet of assorted Lindberg kits - cars, trucks, war vehicles, airplanes - and I damned near bought one that had a '40 Dodge coupe and a 50s Dodge semi cab with flatbed.

I just have too many hobbies to start another...

Other tips I learned back in the day that haven't been mentioned was using a small pair of dikes to trim parts of the sprue and using elmers white glue to glue in clear pieces.

A note about Super Glue. It's expensive.

You can buy a big fat bottle of CA glue which is the same as Super Glue for well under ten bucks. It even comes in thin, medium, and thick viscosity for various applications. I tend to use thin and medium.

For your clear windows, use epoxy. It doesn't fog the clear styrene.

Here is my current arsenal on the workbench.

The aerosol can is called kicker. You use a medium CA glue which sets in about 20 seconds. Once you get the part placed properly, you spritz it with the kicker and it instantly hardens the clue.

That picture above it about 25 dollars worth of stuff total. I buy it from Tower Hobbies online. They're like the Rockauto of the hobby business.

If 25 dollars worth of adhesives is outside of your comfort zone, I understand. I tend to go all in on hobby stuff.

I forgot to mention. If you really want to go Cadillac, a sprue cutter is about 10 bucks or so. It's a little miniature pair of cutters that cut flush with the part to keep from having to clean up the edge with a knife.

I totally remember doing the soak-in-water decals when I was a kid. I remember there was a "sweet spot" in terms of time in the water. Too long, and they're floating around. Too short, and you can't get them off the backing. I seem to remember 30 seconds was about right. They are very fragile, and you pretty much get one chance to do it right. I built quite a few back in the day. In this video game era, I bet most models today are built by elderly gentlemen and not children.

There's a good model car club out your way that puts on a show in march.

Masscar

Tech tip if the day: poor man's super glue accelerator. Breathe on it. CA is designed to work with your skin, which is moist. More moisture, faster cure.

Wall-e wrote: There's a good model car club out your way that puts on a show in march. Masscar

Hey thanks Wally, that is really close to me. I drive by that holiday Inn a lot. I've been in there for electrical license classes to renew my license many times in the past. I may check it out this time.

Chris

I haven't been out to the show on a while but guys from my club go every year. It's an easy way to spend a bunch of money.

Congratulations on finding a great hobby and sharing it with your kid! I've done a few build threads on GRM full of tips and tricks:

Build a model car with me - 1965 Scarab MKIV

Build a model car with me - 1993 Cobra Mustang

Build a model car with me - 1974 Plymouth Superbird

The others here have already given you great advice. You want CA glue for everything but clear parts (use epoxy or white glue), the decals from yonder were also water-slide, and you want to invest in an X-Acto knife and some sprue cutters.

If you like getting cool Japanese kits but don't want to hassle with eBay, you want to check out Hobby Link Japan and Japan Booster

Regarding the decals for the Delica it seems these are different than I remember them being with the kits I had as a kid. These require soaking in water. I don't remember doing that, but maybe I did.

As far back as I can remember scale model decals have always been water slide. Just get a little bowl and add warm water with just a drop of dish soap. The soap will break the surface tension and allow the decals to slide easier on the model to get them into place.

Also the Delica kit came with masking decals for the various sky lights, and moonroofs for the van. I have no idea what these are for. Maybe there is a description in the instructions, but it's mostly in Japanese, and even the English seems a bit strange. Any help on that, or pro tips for a guy getting back into this after a long time is greatly appreciated.

They are probably for masking the windows to paint the black edges that surround the windows. Put them in the inside then paint the edges black from the inside so they appear glossy. I know most Japanese kits include them now.

Also any help on how to get my 10 year old started is much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

I got my son a Revell SnapTite Transformers Camaro for x-mas this year since he loves Transformers. He had a great time putting it together. I had to help is some places and just point out when a part was upside down, but he did most of it himself, he's 11. Just get him something an focus on having a good time building and don't stress over details. We didn't even paint his, he doesn't have the patience for that yet.

Good luck!

Come to think of it...I did most of my model building from about 8 to 14. R/C took over after that and lasted until 17 when I got an actual car. progression. lolz.

Beware the Kragle.

Streetwiseguy wrote: Beware the Kragle.

LOL!!

Mazdax605 wrote:

Streetwiseguy wrote: Beware the Kragle.

LOL!!

I'm so glad somebody got that.

What I remember from model kits as a youth was that the glue would get you a bit woozy and if you used too much of it in one spot, it might soften the plastic.

I do not need another hobby

I do not need another hobby

/looks at the dozen unbuilt kits next to my desk at the home office. I haven't built a model since the early '90s

I do not need another hobby

My question is, am I doing paint wrong or are the Testors brush on paints not very good? As I type this I realize I've been trying to brush paint onto shiny smooth plastic and should probably try scuffing it a bit.

In reply to Chadeux:

They usually aren't too bad although from time to time I have trouble with reds and yellows covering without a few coats. The plastic parts should be washed in warm water and dish soap to remove any mold release agent first.

These were a big part of my childhood/early teens. I bought two kits recently at the Hot Wheels show in Dayton OH, a 1998 Subaru rallycar and a Fiat Abarth rallycar. Bought about a dozen paints and some brushes, still sitting on a shelf... Dammit I need to get it together (& them).