Plumbing help - where to buy?

SVreX wrote: In reply to tuna55: Like I said, change the valve. You could have finished the job in less time then it took to write this thread.

I promise you're incorrect.

I also assure you it would take me an hour.

I also assure you that I do not know which valve would be an exact replacement.

I also assure you that I'd happily time you to see if you can get it done in 15 minutes.

I feel like I went to Radio Shack, and asked them for a question like "I want a capacitor", and had them talk to me about why I didn't want a capacitor, really, for like 20 minutes.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, some of you avoid the topic like it's Zika.

So first I ask a question, then spend the next three pages defending why I wanted to know the answer to the question.

So I suspect what you have is this exact valve: http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=3058

If you click that link, you can check for suppliers in a given distance from a zip code. Put yours in and see if you get lucky.

You might also consider checking with a plumbing supply store instead of a hardware store.

foxtrapper wrote: So I suspect what you have is this exact valve: http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=3058 If you click that link, you can check for suppliers in a given distance from a zip code. Put yours in and see if you get lucky. You might also consider checking with a plumbing supply store instead of a hardware store.

The first bit was very helpful, thanks.

The second, not so much. I totally went to a plumbing supply store, as I tried to explain. Actually, it was the closest one in that search which I went to.

That multitool is looking good about now?

They may be misunderstanding you. If they have that valve and it is indeed yours, buy the whole valve. Just put the handle on and leave the new valve on the shelf as a replacement piece, readily at hand.

Watts discontinued according to there website.

OK, let's try this again.

The purpose of this inquiry is to find a suitable $10 purchase which can yield a handle for a Watts valve as shown in the picture on post #1.

The valve is made by Watts, and the handle rotation is achieved by way of a double-D shaft along with one screw.

Tuna has been to HD, Lowes and a good plumbing store and disassembled and/or examined valves. None of the valves on the shelf use a double-D style shaft.

Will the links I provided in post #1 likely have the same type of handle, with which I can swap over to the valve which needs one?

I think you're over estimating how easy it is to swap out that valve. I'm pretty clueless and even I can change those in less than 25 minutes.

Enyar wrote: I think you're over estimating how easy it is to swap out that valve. I'm pretty clueless and even I can change those in less than 25 minutes.

until your wrench slips and breaks the poorly soldered connection behind the drywall that joe the bitchy plumber blew off when he was doing that sink because it was friday and you turn the water back on and it looks good so you go to bed and wake up at 3 am to the sound of water running down the hallway and...

TRoglodyte wrote:

Enyar wrote: I think you're over estimating how easy it is to swap out that valve. I'm pretty clueless and even I can change those in less than 25 minutes.

until your wrench slips and breaks the poorly soldered connection behind the drywall that joe the bitchy plumber blew off when he was doing that sink because it was friday and you turn the water back on and it looks good so you go to bed and wake up at 3 am to the sound of water running down the hallway and...

Yes, this.

foxtrapper wrote: So I suspect what you have is this exact valve: http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=3058 If you click that link, you can check for suppliers in a given distance from a zip code. Put yours in and see if you get lucky. You might also consider checking with a plumbing supply store instead of a hardware store.

In retrospect, I don't think that is the right valve. It's listed under PEX, which I don't have.

I don't know plumbing, but it looks like CPVC in that picture.

More good reasons why it's simpler to just replace the handle.

Called Watts.

They are all the same within the same diameter.

Done.

Shoot this was just getting good, killjoy

As a guy who recently replaced the under sink shut off in my house i agree with you tuna, im no plumber and it was a tight fit. I just wish i could have went with just a new handle!

Idea: If spline handle will physically fit over D shaft, buy spline handle, turn valve off, degrease the hell out of handle spline pocket and valve shaft, stick a toothpick, qtip shaft, whatever fits good, in the threaded hole on the shaft, put a little epoxy putty in the splined pocket, shove it on the valve, pull out toothpick and screw handle down, open the valve in 24 hours.

I don't think people are missing your question, nor dodging it.

I answered it VERY directly 3/4 of the way down the 1st page when I said, "I can't help you". You are asking for a direct match to a part that may not exist, or at least is rare.

So, several of us are offering you very viable alternatives. If you don't like those solutions, you are welcome to default to the core response- "I can't help you".

Your picture clearly shows an ell stop with 2 threaded ends. 1 is a standard 1/4" compression supply. The other is most likely 1/2" mip (though I am not sure I can tell the scale of the picture). These are EXTREMELY standardized.

It's a 15 minute job. With my teeth. I could talk a 9 year old through the job in 15 min.

The picture also shows plenty of space to fit a wrench on the fitting behind the valve to prevent strain on the pipes in the wall. I understand you lack confidence in this, but there are plenty of people here who could coach you through this if you'd like.

I know you are getting frustrated, but it's a little bit self-inflicted.

The reason you are having a hard time is because thats not a common angle stop. It attaches to CPVC, so its a 1/2" CPVC to 3/8" compression chrome plated angle stop. Looks like the part that goes to the CPVC is also a compression or O ring setup. I refuse to use CPVC, so I'm no help here other than to identify it. I suggest you look thru a Watts online parts catalog and find an exact replacement.

the clear answer, now that i have thought about it, is a cheap set of small vise grips attached to the stem permanently.

i have a couple of the valves from your initial links out in the work van somewhere. i'll pull a handle and let you know so you can stop having a headache.

is this what you are looking for?

Question not asked.

How often do you need to make use of that valve ? Is a handle really that critical ?

Piece of aluminum flatbar, a drill and a file. Bonus points of you make it look cool

I'm pretty sure I just changed the exact stop in the remodel I just did. I think it took a max of 15 min with sarcastic banter with my co-workers and not rushing.

tuna55 wrote:

BrokenYugo wrote: Why did the handle break? Usually because the valve is seized up.

It's missing. The valve works fine, just with pliers.

Epoxy a small wrench onto the stem