OK, one of the cabinet door on our bathroom sink fell off. Again. The whole hinge tore off. Here's the problem, the cabinet doors are huge, and so they are constantly putting a lot of weight on the hinges (especially the top ones). One door is next to the wall and is held on by a really long screw that goes through the cabinet and into the wall. I drilled out the tore up screw holes and sanded down the rough edges and filled it with wood putty and let it dry for 48 hours. And to my credit it held for two weeks.
This is a solution we came up with and I wanted to see what you guys thought. Adding a strip of wood where the cabinet doors meet and putting either a magnet or some kind of clasp to hold the doors up. Would this help my problem?
Duke
SuperDork
6/12/11 2:34 p.m.
What about piano hinge instead of the smaller butt hinges? Or are they offset?
picture of the cabinet and hinge before I say more?
I'm not much on cabinetry, but I know this sounds like a job for a bigger hinge.
cwh
SuperDork
6/12/11 2:42 p.m.
Drill out where the hinge screws go and glue in a piece of round stock, put your screws into the new wood. Pre drill for the screws.
Ok, here's the side that's mounted into the wall (for general reference)
This is the side in question. Sans door and hinges.
And here's the hinges.
The hinges are pretty meaty and I don't think they're the problem. One problem is cabinet side is very thin (less than an inch) so the screws the mount the hinge to the cabinet are pretty small.
Don49
Reader
6/12/11 3:09 p.m.
Drill all theway through and use a counter sunk bolt to hole the hinges. The countersink would be on the outside and flush with the surface.
Fill the holes with epoxy instead of putty.
Particle board won't hold screws well.. Find some stainless steel (rust) machine screws and put them through from the outside. There is lots of room for a nut on the inside.
I'll agree with the particle board statement and going through the outside. Countersink and fill over with putty. You'll never see them.
SVreX
SuperDork
6/12/11 4:56 p.m.
It's the core.
The product you have is a residential particle board- perhaps 5/8" thick. Commercial particle boards use different glues (denser) and are 3/4" thick.
Your doors are not over sized. Wood putty isn't gonna work (but I admire you for trying).
The screws holding your hinges are designed for particle core, but they require a plastic insert in the hole. These probably won't work with those residential cores.
The previously mentioned idea of drilling through to the outside with a bolt is your simplest option, as long as you don't mind seeing the bolts on the outside when you are done. I don't think doweling the hole will work, because the end panel is not thick enough to have adequate gluing surface for the dowel, and those screws wouldn't hold in the dowel.
It's a cheap cabinet. But the bolts will work fine.
I had a similar issue with my apartment cabinet doors. I glued 1/8" aluminum plates slightly larger than the hinge base with industrial glue and four small flush mount phillips screws from the outside of the cabinet with the plates threaded to accept the screws, the screws trimmed to the exact length. Drill and tap the plate for the hinges and adjust as necessary.
The screw heads can be painted to match to reduce the obvious blemish.
So you guys are suggesting something like this? (This is a very technical drawing BTW)
A one by two on the outside with screws thru the particle board and into the one by two will fix it. A little white paint will make it pretty enough for the crapper.
SVreX
SuperDork
6/12/11 8:49 p.m.
1x2? ewww. 
I was taught trim carpentry by an old world Italian craftsman. I once made an excuse for poor workmanship of something I did in a bathroom saying it was just a bathroom.
He said (in his heavy Italian accent), "Paulie. (disappointed pause)... I always doa my besta work in the toilet. It'sa de only place dat a somebody's a gonna sit and looka hard at what I did!".
I have never since made workmanship compromises just because it is the "crapper".
32 years later, I still think of him every time I trim a bathroom.
Just a thought...
I'm thinking in the time it took to draw it, you could have fixed it,. 
As SVreX said, the particle board they use is crap. Bolt it. You can either counter sink it or use some SS trim washers. and oval head screws. Personally I would counter sink, putty and paint.
The screw through the hing that goes into the wall, does it go only into sheet rock?
If so, poke the hole bigger and go for a molly or toggle bolt.
thru bolt, and acorn nuts= no accidental cuts from the bolts. Use fender washers, too.
SVreX
SuperDork
6/13/11 8:28 p.m.
Toggle bolt= unecessary- the wall side is not in question.
Acorn nuts- not as good looking as carriage bolts or recessed flush flat head screws (just turn the nut to the inside).
Fender washers= overkill.
JB: nice job, but the base plate of the hinge will do an almost identical job as your nice aluminum plate. Overkill.
Drewsifer- the fix you drew will work fine.
Ok, I fixed the cabinet but now I have another problem. I took special care to make sure I mounted the hinge EXACTLY where it was. Then I mimicked the adjustments from the other side and this happened. I'm kinda stumped what to do.
Each hinge has two ways to adjust it. There's a screw the adjusts the angle of the hinge, and it can be pushed in or out approximately 1 inch. What do?
