I recently picked up a pretty nice 22' enclosed trailer. Its got (2) of the 14"x14" vent openings in the roof that appears to be the standard size. Physically installing one of these seems pretty straight forward. However, prices range from $500 to $4500 and I'm struggling to find any good reviews or recommendations for a make/model. Anybody have some knowledgeable suggestions about what to get or where to buy it? I'd like to be under $1k if there's a good unit in that price range.
I had the same quandary for my enclosed trailer, and I would only use the ac a few times a year at most. I ended up with a standard portable rolling floor standing AC unit, and it works fine for like $250. If I had to do it again I would, but I would get one with separate intake and exhaust hoses as it turns out my trailer is pretty airtight and it creates a vacuum inside when working.
The PO of my trailer had a stand up unit but pumbed the exhaust and it worked fairly well. I wouldn't bother if your trailer isn't insulated, do that first.
The trailer is insulated. In my previous trailer, I set up and ducted a larger residential/window unit and it functions really well. However, the layout of the new trailer is not as conducive to the same setup. I'm pretty set on doing a rooftop unit on this one. I'm also in Florida, the a/c will get lots of use!
When I was looking for mine, Dometic seemed to be the 900 pound gorilla. They had several models, I went with the simplest/most basic because most of the fancy features of the others (thermostats, etc) didn't really seem relevant for a race trailer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SQ2GEJA/
My trailer is non-insulated, but it's gel-coated plywood rather than thin aluminum sides. The AC works decently, although it's better at keeping things cool rather than cooling them down once they've heated up. Here in CA that's enough. I run it off a Harbor Freight Predator 3500, which is enough to deal with the inrush current.
I just bought a recpro /houghton 13.5 heat pump for my airstream reno - it was $1400 but is low profile and very quiet. Works good so far. Other rv'ers are big on dometic penguin II and Coleman Mach 8 if low profile is a priority. If not, options open up significantly, and can be cheaper.
I looked at roof units and decided I didn't want a hole that will leak eventually. I bought a 1 ton mini split and put the condenser on the tongue and the air handler on the front wall. I run the lines and drain out the bottom of the trailer.
In reply to jgrewe :
Well, the holes are already there. Step one. Remove vent. Two: run power. Three install ac in existing hole. Only ones I've seen leak, have been VERY poorly installed. There are other ways to get ac cheaper, but the roof is very out of the way.
But is the roof properly reinforced for it?
I'm looking at the portable units if I bother with ac for mine.
03Panther said:In reply to jgrewe :
Well, the holes are already there. Step one. Remove vent. Two: run power. Three install ac in existing hole. Only ones I've seen leak, have been VERY poorly installed. There are other ways to get ac cheaper, but the roof is very out of the way.
Just be aware of how much height it adds to your trailer when it comes to low bridges. :)
In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :
Absolutely. I should have remembered to include that!
I've never spent the extra for a low profile (I've had the room)
Did spring for a 9K btu heat pump (dometic, iirc, but most are 'bout the same) for the 26' TT (23' box) when original roof top died. We were quite happy with it. Better than "chill chaser" heat strips.
I've done the basic Dometic. If installed correctly it doesn't leak. Wiring is pretty basic. Maybe mount the thermostat close to where you are going to sleep if that is the case.
Apexcarver said:But is the roof properly reinforced for it?
with out factory vents, prolly not.
with factory vents, eh, maybe 50/50!
But easy to address while taking inner panels down to insulate.
I've added a roof top where non was, used or improved existing window units, and used portable units. All have their good points and bad. All have to deal with water, and possible water damage. Believe it or not roof top is easiest of the three at that!
have not done a mini split... probably should have looked into a 120VAC one instead of the complicated window unit on my current project camper.
I am looking at just doing one of these or similar.
Which would be super easy as far as water problems and I get heat out of it too.
Might be more expensive, but can easially be used for things other than the trailer if needed as well. Biggest challenge is packaging it into the floor plan of my small trailer (single axle for a formula car)
I've got a couple Dometic units that have replaced Colemans and they work really well. These are on top of my motorhome, so they're 13.5k units, fit in the standard roof cut-out, and need a 20A breaker. When I replaced the front one, I was actually able to find the Dometic as a used unit from a guy that was parting out a travel trailer and I think I only gave two bills for it. Even in Florida, it might be handy to get one with the heat strip kit installed.
There are smaller units that draw less power and are used on pop-ups, if you don't need or want that many BTUs or need to be able to run it on a 15a circuit.
As for leaks, as long as you use a brand-new seal kit to install it and then follow that up with some Eternabond tape, you'll be fine.
The heat strips (advertised as "chill chasers") are extremely inefficient power hogs. Almost every roof top ac comes with them, but just ignore that spot on the switch. Even some of the heat pumps have those added.
There are MANY better ways to heat an rv!!!
In reply to 03Panther :
The one in the Dometic DuoTherm that I got used is actually really good when it's a little chilly out. If I've got electric I will always use that rather than my propane furnace. If it's really cold out, the furnace is definitely waaaaaay better, but a large part of that is the fact that's it's ducted. It's also the way the basement keeps from freezing up whereas the heatstrip just keeps the main cabin nice and toasty.
I also rairly use the gas furnace. It's a inefficient resource hog as well. I've used many different types ov supplemental heat, propane and 120 ; liked em all better than the heat strips in roof top. They do work, just not as well as other stuff I've tried. My favorite has been, two of the little cube ceramic heaters, both on low, place at each end.
You'll need to log in to post.
