Time to tap the GRM braintrust again, please share your thoughts and experiences.
I am looking at a '91 Spirit R/T with ~ 80K miles on it, looks mint, has the optional ABS. I know it will need A/C work and new struts. What should I look for when checking this over?
Thanks in advance!
The cylinder heads crack, and are actually more valuable than a complete car. Its kinda weird, a complete one might be worth $800, engine and transmission $1200, just the engine $1500, $1k for just the head, etc. Other than that, they had pretty well figured things out by then and they have all the best of the turbo dodge parts.
Yup, the cylinder head is the only real issue with them.
Cylinder head issue was resolved by TSB a long time ago. It is practically a non-issue now as it would have cracked and have been repaired long before you've gotten it. Easy to check, pull the plug wire cover and check around the plugs. If they are steel, that is okay as they were likely installed properly (not over-torqued, which is part of what happened in original runs)
Valve spring pressure is very high on the Lotus head, designed for much higher RPM than the computer will allow. Lowering the spring pressure with aftermarket keepers will help the cams live longer at the types of RPM's most people run them at. Otherwise expect to have new cams made at some point from scratch for about $500/each. Unless you can find some NOS ones.
A/C compressors tend lose their seals from lack of use. They dry out and fail. Replace the seals and use it once a week (it should automatically come on when using defrost to dry the air) Otherwise the hoses break down and leak. Newer refrigerants can leak through the older style hoses. R-134 works okay, but you really want to use R-12 or an equivalent. Depending on the age, the A/C clutch will fail (just like any A/C clutch will eventually)
There aren't really any good OEM equivalent struts around, but Koni's are available NOS from some of the T-D vendors and well worth it. Eibach lowering springs are also available NOS if you search around online. Makes for a competent package. Panhard bar in the rear is a little flimsy and tends to move the rear suspension laterally a little when the car is lowered (I measured about 1/4" on my factory lowered car, the eibach lowered car was a little more). Adjustable panhard rods are available from the T-D vendors as are front strut tower braces.
Motor mounts and suspension bushings are available in Polyurethane from my buddy, Johnny, at Polybushings.com. Every T-D should have his motor mounts at least.
Transaxle and shifter are essentially the same as a 1st-gen Neon. So Booger shifter bushings and short shifter will fit. OBX/Quaiffe/Phantom Grip limited slips are worth the investment on a high powered front driver. Otherwise, don't do one-wheel burn outs or you'll spit the diff pin out of the case. Also, don't power shift it, you'll just break it and not go faster.
Its an updated K-car which was the single floppiest unibody ever put on the road. Not kidding. The torsional stiffness of K-cars and their derivatives are terrible.
Several years ago when they did that 224 hp Shelby Daytona, there were stories of the engine ripping the mounts off the car... as in, pulling the steel off the unibody.
curtis, the motor mounts were too soft and caused the engine to move too far and essentially dead drop the torque load onto the front cross member. Cheap India-made motor mounts would fail regularly. Polyurethane mounts would solve the issue permanently.
This wasn't just an issue with the R/T cars, this was an issue from the L-body - forward. In 91 or 92 they changed the motor mounts to be stronger, but also introduced more rubber to quiet the cars down. When the rubber fails, you get metal to metal contact.
The Spirit (A-body) are the strongest versions of the K-family. They are also pretty heavy. Stay away from the aftermarket modified Daytona's with the T-Tops, they are only glued and riveted in place, talk about a floppy ride!
Friend of mine had one - way faster than you would expect, and gives a whole new meaning to the term torque steer. If you nailed the gas in a straight line it would almost change lanes. But boy, was it quick! That engine in something light like a La Bala would be really, really cool!
Yep, I can only imagine it is pretty quick. I used to have the Plymouth Voyager equipped with the factory turbo. Used to surprise the E36 M3 out of people. 
This motor is more powerful and the vehicle is lighter weight ta boot!
Passed on the BMW you were checking out?
Are you looking for a hot rod sedan these days? Might be time for a "What car?!" thread.
Jim Pettengill wrote: Friend of mine had one - way faster than you would expect, and gives a whole new meaning to the term torque steer. If you nailed the gas in a straight line it would almost change lanes. But boy, was it quick! That engine in something light like a La Bala would be really, really cool!
BTW, the steering racks liked to come loose over time due to the torque steer. If left that way, the rack would wallow out the mounts in the K-member. Later cars came with larger bolts to reduce this issue.
My CSX got so bad that it would be about a half a turn of steering under load, then that would unwind when you let off the gas (you know like everytime you shift, heh). The scary part was that I drove it that way long enough to get used to it. Older brother borrowed it to run to the parts store and only made it to the end of the block before he brought it back as it was undriveable.
Soft motor mounts, bushings and factory alignment makes the torque steer worse, but that is also life with a turbocharged car ;) Never get on the gas without a firm grip on the wheel and after a while you automatically tense up to counteract the load.
This is all excellent information, thank you! I went and searched for all the Service Bulletins on it today.
Yeah, I've been on a bit of a hot rod coupe search lately. Sedans and wagons are in the mix too. Convertibles and automatics are out, I don't care how sporty. I considered a hardtop Miata but I just need a bit more room, I would love to be able to carry more than one passenger.
I have looked for another Mazda 3, wagon or sedan, but there are few in my budget and, well... we already have one. I tried a '96 325i, and liked it a lot, but it seems everything in my budget ($4000) has too many miles or too many issues or is too freakin' far away. I love the body style of the 318ti, but I can't find many of those either. I found a Volvo S70 with a manual transmission, but it needed lots of servicing and was definitely a smokers car, so it was out. I love the Volvo sedans too, but Chuck would rather not have another Volvo after working on the 850. Apparently it was a PIA. 
It's going to be my daily driver and I don't want too much of a project. After selling the Turbo Voyager, I have missed it, and I always wished it was a manual, so... we'll see. I have a test drive set up for tomorrow for the Spirit. 
I had a Turbo Spirit ES with a 5-speed. I should have kept that one. It was a lot of fun and a bit of a sleeper. But at the time it was a daily driver that needed attention and was taking funds away from the Barracuda getting back on the road. Barracuda won. I don't regret that one bit.
I put the Eibach springs in the Spirit. Honestly I didn't like them. I guess I'm a more linear than progressive guy. 
The Mopar Performance struts couldn't dampen the Eibachs. I didn't want to pony up for the Koni's at the time. Probably should have. That and a fresh set of tires would have kept the Spirit here a while longer.
My turbo Daytona scratches the Turbo 2.2 itch for me.
Yeah, the eibachs only really work with the Koni's.
I loved them on my Sundance. I have Koni's on my CSX and I don't like them as much. Suspension setup is essentially the same between the two, except for the springs.
is there a manual RWD trans what will bolt up to this? dakota?
i got a basket case spirit r/t and now im having thoughts about my 74 dart...
They are blocky, 80's turbo goodness.
jhaas wrote: is there a manual RWD trans what will bolt up to this? dakota? i got a basket case spirit r/t and now im having thoughts about my 74 dart...
Yep Dak trans. There are a couple to choose from. Most common ones are weak. The ideal combo is the illusive '94-95 bell housing that will let you use a Turbo Supra trans.
I have a less desirable '92 NP-535 to play with. I'm planning to give it a shot, but keep the boost sane to see how long it will live.
And I think I still have a grill in my shed for your Dart too.
You'll need to modify the bellhousing to work with the crank reference sensor, but yeah that's how you do it.
Dakota bell + Toyota r154 5-speed
there are 2 94's at the pull a aprt. ill check them out in the morning.
what should i be looking for? other than a manual trans bellhousing? how can i tell its the right one?
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f68/22438-rwd-tranny-your-2-2-2-a.html
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?13435-Rear-drive-4-cylinder&p=157191#post157191
That should help.
cool, so any dakota bellhousing that had a 2.5 4 cylinder?
is this what im looking for? dakota bellhousing on ebay
Well, there are two different types:
You want the type on the right for the Toyota R154, that was available from 94-95 only. The one on the left is the more common one available from 87-93 and I think is used for a different transmission swap.
http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740
thank you very much!
Seeing the picture gave me flash backs to our white Acclaim I learned in.
I kind of wonder what those things can be made to do these days.
http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/2662659467.html
Just thought I'd let you know what kind of deals there are to be found on T-D's. 
It is nowhere near as good as an almost completely used up 328i
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