Tamiya paint BLOWS

Ok, I admit it probably doesn't and it's just most likely my skill - or lack thereof - but that makes me ask if anybody else on here is doing any models? I'm working on my first one in YEARS so I'm pretty much starting over. I picked up a Tamiya R34 Skyline and I'm using Tamiya paint. The problem is it seems to be going on really, really thin. Is it normally this thin? I've found that if I'm painting larger areas it doesn't go on very even. Should I be applying more than coat at all times? As soon as I figure out how to upload pics to my website again I'll host them. LOL

Also, I picked up a pair of Bride seats on eBay from Scale Auto Design and I was going to paint them red. Any idea what shade would be the closest? I currently have X-7 (Red), X-27 (Clear Red) and XF-7 (Flat Red).

I'm using Rustoleum for mine:

For red, the Rustoleum "Regal Red" is really nice and also a perfect Toyota Truck red match.

Nice.

Not quite what I'm looking for, though...

I've always gotten the impression that Tamiya scale model paint was best left to people who were really good with an airbrush. And that would not describe me.

Hahaha! Honestly I was kind of expecting something along those lines... I'm also open to what everybody else uses for model paint.

I'm guessing you are using aerosol? If so, I have found that warming them in a pan of hot water (not boiling) for 10 minutes before spraying helps them go on evenly. Shake and shake until your arm falls off to mix 'em up. When you finish a spray session turn the can upside down and spray until it comes out clear to clean the nozzle.

Did you start with a primer & sanding? That helps a lot with the top coats laying down nice and even. Either way, lets see some pics! We haven;t had a modelling thread on here in a while.

Per Schroeder wrote: I've always gotten the impression that Tamiya scale model paint was best left to people who were really good with an airbrush.

+1

I've never had problems with it, but I've always sprayed scale car bodies with real paint. I'm not sure if the EPA cracked down on this, but you used to be able to buy it in small quanities from a few different model paint companies.

The advantage of a thin paint is that details end up staying crisper. Just take your time with it.

Must be the coming cold weather because I've been lurking on Automotiveforums.com's modeling pages again and prepping to pick up where I left off on a couple of my models. I can't seem to get into them during the warmer months.

And I definitely need to get somekind of an airbrush setup because I'm just frustrating myself with brushes and spray cans. Or maybe it's just me... literally.

I'm not spraying at all, I want to wait and see if I want to go down that path first. I'm just using acrylic paint and paint brushes right now.

I'm uploading files to photobucket now...

I build models quite frequently. Been published and won a contest or two, but nothing real big. Anyways... yeah, Taimya paint sucks. The whole world is swapping out to water-based. Check out Testor's Model Master ACRYL line, I swapped out 95% of my oil-based stuff for that line. Games Workshop's stuff is nice too, but pricey.

If you want to see some stuff and talk models, we have a sweet thread on Rotary Car Club about all car models:

Edit: Well, somewhere. I can't find it right now. Give me an hour.

And a rotary-only one:

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=2111

Found it!

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=1593

Sorry for the sizes and quality, it was done quickly with a crappy camera...

Front rim. This is the only time you'll find me rolling on cross-drilled rotors.

Rear rim. I'm not sure if you can tell in these pics but the lugs are actually silver. I was quite cross-eyed after finishing the wheels...

Some shots of the bottom...

P71 wrote: The whole world is swapping out to water-based.

Quality wise, how do the paints look (especially the metallic paints)? I've been out of the loop for a while.

Thanks Michael, I'll definitely check it out! I have about 20 bottles of Tamiya paint so I may use it for as long as I can before moving to something else.

My next project is probably going to be a classic Mini-Cooper with some of the Skyline leftover parts.

It's coming along pretty well. Are you going to rough up the treads a little with some sandpaper? That adds a realistic touch.

I hadn't thought about it but I guess I might just do that. How fine should I go? 2000 grit?

Anybody have any ideas for the Bride seats? Just touch and go, see if I can match it?

P71 wrote: Found it! http://www.rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=1593

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chknhwk wrote: I hadn't thought about it but I guess I might just do that. How fine should I go? 2000 grit? Anybody have any ideas for the Bride seats? Just touch and go, see if I can match it?

I think something a little coarser would be better, but it depends on how soft the rubber is. It doesn't take much to scuff 'em up.

Try painting the bottom of the seats where it won't show (or use a bit of scrap from the same plastic if you have it) with the reds and let it dry. Once dry, see which one is the closest match and use that one.

Ok, thanks. I'll put more pics up when I get a chance to work on it. I had hoped to work on it some more today (I'm on vacation this week) but I got caught up shopping at Tweeter. Maybe tomorrow after karate and (maybe) the junkyard.

If you want to try something cool (may not be applicable to the model you are doing now) get some Foil Adhesive (looks like white glue). You can use it to coat parts with aluminum foil (the make other colors like brass also I believe). Looks WAY better than metal paint. You can use normal foil, but they make a thinner version that is better for the curves. Here is a quick shot (not mine):

I have done a full aluminum F86 and a F104 (coolest plane ever made, especially in natural metal). I haven't tried polishing the foil yet, but I suspect that will work.

This is the website that talks about it (and sells supplies):

http://www.bare-metal.com/

Quality - Very nice! The flats and semi-flats and semi-glosses are really above and beyond anything oil based. The pure gloss aren't quite as glossy when put side-by-side, but beyond that no complaints. The metallics still feature real metal or mica and are nicer because they lay down smoother, makes it more realistic.

chknhwk - Nice job so far, but you forget to paint the actual chassis! You'd also be surprised how much you can get for used paint. I sold my old stuff that was barely used and financed half of the new stuff. BTW, if you buy from Tower Hobby online they'll send you discount codes. I think the current crop is $10 off any $50. I have a code if anybody is interested.

On the tires - 80 to 100 grit for a "just raced" look, 250 for "new tires".

Shoot, didn't realize you had to be a member to see the RCC thread. It's 23 pages of goodness and tips, so I still think it's worth it.

As for seats, a semi-flat is the way to go. It accurately represents the cloth material without looking dull. I just did some red ones. For leather go for semi-gloss, I did some blue leather GTO seats that way and they also came out nicely.

chknhwk wrote: I'm not spraying at all, I want to wait and see if I want to go down that path first. I'm just using acrylic paint and paint brushes right now. I'm uploading files to photobucket now...

I've had the same experience with trying to brush the Tamy acrylics, they're just too thin and really need to be airbrushed IMO.

I can only get the gloss colors to work well with an airbrush, but the flats and mattes seem to brush ok.

Ah, my other hobby which I am even more familiar about. Check out coolminiornot.com. It is for painting figures mostly but there are some people who do other things. I personally use Citadel and Vallejo paints which are both water based. A little bit of water and a good brush and you can get some nice even thin coats. If they can do something like this, a car should be no problem. http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics12/img47e6f15ced3d4.jpg (I was going to insert the picture but it was huge.)