'81 Chevy PU project, original 3/8" steel fuel supply line from cab back to fuel pump has been left open for 4-5 years, 5-6' in length, snaky as WVa back roads. Was ready to just replace it but giant PITA, no direct fit replacement, needs all custom bending, so trying to salvage it.
Adapted shop air to the 3/8" tube barb at 5 psi just to blow it out and it's berkeleying plugged. Tried snaking .050 wire in but got hung up in bend, same w/ .035 MIG wire. Put a few shots of Kroil in tube, air up to 25 psi, NFG. Don't need to get crazy w/ air pressure and esplode it or I'll bein' replacing it anyway. Increased in increments as my berkeleying patience waned and at around 60 psi the open end has but a slight wizz, sounds like it might be open about pinhole size. Been tapping the line along the tube length w/ hammer and wooden slat too but not very accessible at all. The Kroil hasn't made it out the end. Called it a night.
Could plumb in a small air line lubricator to the air feed and let it run all day, maybe the fluid will loosen up the clog, still not getting crazy w/ air pressure tho. Explode= replace. Kroil running short here. I have WD and that home brew Acetone/ Dex miracle penetrating oil (that hasn't done E36 M3 for me yet) but maybe worth a shot.
Running short on idears, burned out on this truck.
What am I missing.
If it's in good shape shop air pressures wont hurt it any. Or just run a new one along a more convenient path.
In reply to Kenny_McCormic:
I understand. If there were a more convenient path w/ in reasonable time it'd be done. Already replaced the 5/16 return line to cab back and what a berkeleying PITA. Just trying to salvage this one.
Stranded cable in a drill and brake clean. Roto-rooter.
I've also use a hinge pin from the flap of a C-130 with a point sharpened on it in the drill on a Beetle fuel line full of mud. Thin coat hanger would work the same.
And air. Blow it out between thrusts.
In reply to VWguyBruce:
might have a shot at that
Also, if ya really want to try all or nothing, I've had success unplugging stuff by hooking a pressure washer to the clogged port in question. Most notable case being the bottom of a water jacket on a Yanmar YSE-12 single horizontal cylinder marine diesel engine that was full of years of rust and lake erie mud (owner didnt know it was there and had never opened it to flush it out). Normal domestic water pressure wouldn't do anything, so we rigged up the pressure washer and it blew out the junk sometime before it hit 2000 psi.
you think running a new fuel line on a Chevy pickup is complicated?
it's a straight shot down the frame rail, and the line is only like 6 feet long thanks to the tank locations- or the location of the tank switch valve- on those trucks.
if you want to make it pretty and "race car" like, then get a roll of aluminum fuel line and use that- it's also a lot easier to work with than steel. i've also made fuel lines out of aluminum underhood AC lines from random cars before, too.. you don't need to worry about putting the bubble flare on the ends to hold the hoses on, because it is a low pressure line with suction on it while the engine is running unless you go with an electric pusher pump.
personally, i'd use full shop air pressure and let it buck.. hook up the air with some sort of a valve, open it up, then start tapping the line at the opposite end working your way back until the jam gets jarred loose... if that didn't work, then i'd just buy the longest chunk of flared 3/8" tubing that they have at the local auto parts store and put that in there if they didn't have aluminum..
Now lemme get this right: You have a fuel line that is plugged up solid now, has been sitting open under the truck for years, and you're trying to clear it out so you can use it IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM? Do you really thing you will EVER get all the crud out of that thing? Do you want bits of rust, mud-dauber, tar, sludge going through your carb or fuel injectors?
I hit mine with 125psi. Bitxh will pop one way or another. Worked well the last few times I've needed to do it.
I eliminated the side saddle tanks and installed a Suburban 40 gal. tank. Ran new 5/16" and 3/8" steel tubing for feed and return w/ Adel clamps from cab back to tank and a 5/16" return from fuel pump to the crossover. The crossover tubes at cab back crossmember from L to R side are open. Bending and barbing tubing is no problem, not complicated, not my first rodeo. The Suburban tank hasn't had fuel in it yet, been running the engine just to move the truck around from a two gallon gas can bungied under the front crossmember.
I planned to replace this stopped up line before even testing it but then decided to take a shot at unplugging it. Could be simple as a mud bug as they were in some tapped holes in the engine block. Not my usual style but looking for the Easy Button on this one. This is the last day of my vacation, this truck needs to go sooner rather than later, not gonna sit another winter here. Lots of other work to get done too. Washing machine took a dump last night so looks like there goes my afternoon.
I'll hook the air back up w/ some P oil in the line, see what comes out the other end. Worth a shot. Report back later.
Took one last shot at the fuel line this afternoon after getting the new washer home and hooked up.
Hooked the air back up @ 60 psi, was just going to tap along the line but remembered what Dr. Hess said about mud... and yea, I did have mud in open tapped holes in the block and heads. Ran some MIG wire up the 12 inches or so of fuel hose on the front end and... no rust but mud crumbled out after 4-5", still not open tho. Ran some 1/16" welding wire further up the line and BINGO... it's berkeleying open... and no rust. Blanked the open end and pressure tested the line @ 20 psi, calling it good now. Called it a day after cold, rain and dark set in. It's berkeleying beer time.
Thanks gang and Doc, never figured on mud till ya said that.
I'll still add a mini air line lubricator w/ WD to the supply air and flush it out... but that can wait.
Last day of vacay, back to work tomorrow.
Now, where's my beer assistant...
put a cheap filter between the end of the line and your fuel pump to catch the crap that's going to probably come out of it.
In reply to patgizz:
yup, that's the plan. The fuel tank and most lines are new but sitting for a few years empty, plus the old crappy lines so there's gonna be some crap. Thinkin' of one of the clear housing filters, be kinda interesting to see what comes out of it.
I don't know why you're going through all this trouble to save this line. Replace it, it'll be easier, maybe cheaper, and definitely more reliable.
Added air line lubricator to air supply, flushed line out w/ WD. White shop rag over tube exit to catch any E36 M3. Varied low to medium pressure, nice fog, refill bowl as necessary. Check rag, very little residue and no rust, not a trace. Replace w/ clean rag, raise pressure... clean as a whistle.
Pressure tested line @ 25 psi for two beers worth or 30 minutes, calling it good. Can't esplain it but I'll take it, maybe the mud wasps did a favor by sealing the line. Tested the supply crossover line, good. Only the return at the crossover to test yet then should be ready for fuel in the new tank.
Ended up not being a waste of time so good w/ that, the flush and tests are a fraction of time it would take to replace.
Flushed and pressure tested the crossover return line today. Replaced any old fuel hoses. Added a 3/8" clear bowl fuel filter before the fuel pump just to keep an eye on any crap from the tank or lines (which I expected). Filled the new tank for the first time w/ 10 gals. Filled the fuel bowls through the vents, choke and fired right up. Surprisingly there was nothing in the clear fuel filter, no discoloration either. It's early yet, maybe the new fuel will break something loose.
Easy Button FTW
