JahjahSQC
JahjahSQC New Reader
5/20/24 3:09 p.m.

I have a V8Roadsters Getrag diff swap kit that came with all the pieces of my Exocet when I purchased the unfinished project last year. It included custom axles, custom prop shaft(T56 to Getrag diff), mounts, etc... Its a pretty complete kit & it was all installed except the prop shaft when I received everything. When I finally went to install the prop shaft it was a super tight fit because of this pin that sticks out of the Getrag differential, but I finally got it to slide in. Later inthe build-up process I tried to remove the prop shaft to get to the brake line, but couldn't get the prop shaft out because of this pin. I ended up just working around it. I can get the prop shaft almost all the way off.... but not quite enough. Unfortunately, I think I'm going to have to remove the transmission in the near future so I'll have to deal with this again. Does anyone know if I can remove(cut) that pin? Is the pin just to help locate the flange to keep it centered on the diff? I did some searching around the internet & couldn't find an answer. Thanks in advance. 

Colin Wood
Colin Wood Associate Editor
5/21/24 8:24 a.m.

I don't have any advice, but I can give your thread a bump in case anyone who can help missed it.

Trent
Trent PowerDork
5/21/24 10:21 a.m.

I assume that is a BMW Diff?

Looks like a tripod mount for a rubber flex joint AKA Guibo/Giubo. That stud is there to align the centers. The driveshaft will need the matching socket to go with. The stud and bearing are necessary to avoid balance and vibration problems

JahjahSQC
JahjahSQC New Reader
5/21/24 11:02 a.m.
Trent said:

I assume that is a BMW Diff?

Looks like a tripod mount for a rubber flex joint AKA Guibo/Giubo. That stud is there to align the centers. The driveshaft will need the matching socket to go with. The stud and bearing are necessary to avoid balance and vibration problems

 

Actually, what I have is a Getrag G80 diff out of a mid -2000s Cadillac CTSV.

iansane
iansane GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/21/24 11:36 a.m.

I'd bet it still had a rubber coupler there. Does your driveshaft not have that alignment socket/seal?

JahjahSQC
JahjahSQC New Reader
5/21/24 2:21 p.m.
iansane said:

I'd bet it still had a rubber coupler there. Does your driveshaft not have that alignment socket/seal?

There isn't a seal of any kind & there definitely isn't any room for a rubber coupler.

The prop shaft does have the hole for the pin on the diff to slide in, but the problem is I can't un-install the prop shaft.


Unless someone tells me otherwise, I think I'm just going to cut a section of it off so I can easily remove the prop shaft & hope for the best, but still leave enough to be able to center the prop shaft on the diff flange.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
5/21/24 3:04 p.m.

Edit:

 

Check out this thread:

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=448855

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa MegaDork
5/21/24 3:12 p.m.
JahjahSQC said:
iansane said:

I'd bet it still had a rubber coupler there. Does your driveshaft not have that alignment socket/seal?

There isn't a seal of any kind & there definitely isn't any room for a rubber coupler.

The prop shaft does have the hole for the pin on the diff to slide in, but the problem is I can't un-install the prop shaft.


Unless someone tells me otherwise, I think I'm just going to cut a section of it off so I can easily remove the prop shaft & hope for the best, but still leave enough to be able to center the prop shaft on the diff flange.

Yeah, that sounds like V8R's attention to detail.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/21/24 4:05 p.m.

They used to use a solid adapter. One thing I would check is that you have enough movement in the spline into the trans. You should have enough to clear that stub. Did you order a front mount kit and install the motor mount adapters backwards to move the engine back?

JahjahSQC
JahjahSQC New Reader
5/21/24 4:22 p.m.
wvumtnbkr said:

Edit:

 

Check out this thread:

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=448855

Thank you!

JahjahSQC
JahjahSQC New Reader
5/21/24 4:27 p.m.
Keith Tanner said:

They used to use a solid adapter. One thing I would check is that you have enough movement in the spline into the trans. You should have enough to clear that stub. Did you order a front mount kit and install the motor mount adapters backwards to move the engine back?

I'm not sure what you mean with the front mount kit or backwards motor mounts. I am also running the V8R LS-swap front subframe if that's what you mean? I'll take a look at how far the prop shaft goes into the tail f the trans tonight though.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/21/24 5:38 p.m.

There are two motor positions possible with the V8R kit. One has the motor further forward which means more firewall/tunnel clearance but worse weight distribution and more hassles with radiator placement. The rear position is usually preferred. The only real difference is how you install the motor mounts and the length of the driveshaft.

Have you called to ask Steve or Chandelle about it?

JahjahSQC
JahjahSQC New Reader
5/22/24 1:01 p.m.
Keith Tanner said:

There are two motor positions possible with the V8R kit. One has the motor further forward which means more firewall/tunnel clearance but worse weight distribution and more hassles with radiator placement. The rear position is usually preferred. The only real difference is how you install the motor mounts and the length of the driveshaft.

Have you called to ask Steve or Chandelle about it?

I don't know who Steve or Chandelle are. Are they V8R? because I can't get them to answer the phone, respond to voice mails, or reply to emails. I bought my entire Exocet second hand from someone who gave up on their project without assembling much of anything, but had sourced pretty much everything.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/22/24 1:09 p.m.

Yes, they're the main players at V8R. As for the company not responding, can't help there. 

Just looked at the V8R site. They don't list the forward/rear mounting options anymore, but it's possible they were still offering it when your parts were purchased. This may not be what's going on, but checking the length of the driveshaft against drawings might be worthwhile. A possible alternative would be to contact The Driveshaft Shop (who made those parts at least for a while) and see if they can provide that dimension for you.

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