Looking on the interwebs, I see some of those "heavy-duty" 175A quick disconnects that sometimes you see used on service trucks to connect jumper cables to the truck (regular clips on the other end for the vehicle being jumped). Don't starters usually pull a lot more current than 175A at startup? I ask, as I wanted to make a "Quick Disconnect" locking battery box for my roadster, where the battery and the entire mounting box would lift out. I'd use these QD's to connect the battery box to the car, and one on the outside of the battery box but connected to the battery. Unlatch the box, lift out, place on workbench and use another QD connected to a battery maintainer. Thoughts on the suitability of these connectors for "everyday" starting and regular electrical loads?
What I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Spurtar-Battery-Connect-Disconnect-Certified/dp/B07CCGF8V7?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=AS1QLBO8QPN9Z&th=1
Generally, the 175A rating is for continuous use. The starting amperage is indeed higher and most connectors rated for 175A will survive the short high-amp draw for starting. Look at Battery kill switches for similar sorts of results. The brand name ones generally show continuous and short duration ratings.
For your purpose, the contacts will survive the repeated cycling, but the housing for the disconnect will take the most wear and tear. Similar QDs are used for remote starter battery support.
Anderson Power Products has both the 175A and 350A connections.
We used the 174A for starting the NASCAB Car where we were testing at various tracks.
You can wire either of them with #0 Battery Cable and they will get the Job Done.
Powerwrks and Zoro are both good vendors, quick delivery and stock on hand
You can either solder the connectors to the battery cables,, or purchase the crimpers. Small volume work, go with soldering, (a Mapp torch and some good resin core solder)
When we built battery harnesses, we soldered the connection.
YRMV
