Anyone have a '74 XL70 wiring diagram?

I'm trying to get this old bike running, so I can make room for projects I actually want to work on, but someone did a hack job on the wiring harness in the process of removing the lights, and I'm not getting any spark.

I found a link for a '74 wiring diagram through google here, but it's not correct as I've two more wires from the ignition switch(and it all looks stock on the bike), and several colors don't match.

Oh, and here's a pic of the bike. It is for sale, of course the price goes up if I get it running.

Is it similar to the CB100 of the time. Was just at the in-law's and there is one I ordered to go to the scrap yard immediately after inspecting it. I have no idea what he did to it, but there is no compression and everything that hasn't fallen off is rusted. It DOES still have all the wires. I don't know if he berkeleyed them up to, but I can order they pull them before scrapping.

I have found inconsistencies in old Honda motorcycle wiring diagrams before, but they're usually easy to work through. As an XL, that should have had a full set of road lights originally.

Look for ST70 or CT70 diagrams which should be similar. Maybe you can find the answer there.

Maybe a more important question - does anyone know whether it actually needs a battery in order to start?

I know that CT70s will start without one, but juice flows through the headlight, which is not what you want. I'm guessing that your once-lighted XL will not, but I may be wrong.

IIRC those are magneto ignition. That means no it does not have to have a battery to run. My Z50 and SL70 did not need a battery. SL70 wiring diagram, maybe two years older than your bike:

Notice the main switch shows ignition grounded in the 'off' position, that's grounding the magneto.

Look carefully at the coil, see if it's marked '6vDC'. If so, it has to have a battery. If it's marked '6vAC then it doesn't need a battery. If you don't have a battery, a 6v lantern battery can be wired in to see if it will make sparks, or even some D cells. I had a bud who built a 'total loss' battery ignition that way for a MX bike.

There's also 'battery eliminators'.

Old Honda's of that age if you run lights you need the battery due to the now considered crappy regulator rectifier with out the battery you'll blow out the lights in short order and fry the rectifier. There are some nice modern units you can put in place and there about the same cost as the old fined plate type.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/index.html

Well it's definitely not getting spark. Honestly, at this point I just want it gone so I can start on the Europas. Think this bike is worth $250 as-is?

With no fenders, no factory paint and not running? Hate to be a party pooper but I'm gonna say no. Were it me, I'd maybe risk $50-$75 on it.

Good to know. I do have fenders though, not that it changes the value much.

I'd probably say about $100. Sorry. Guys looking for an old bike like this want them to be complete. Without the original lights and stuff, a non-runner is a parts bike.

Have you checked Dr. ATV? Lots of great info there.

http://www.dratv.com/

check here. http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/

OBTW: I see the ignition switch is still mounted on the front frame downtube, on those the way to 'hot wire' them was to unplug the ignition switch. I ditched all that on mine, used a 'hold down' type kill switch.