Gary Fisher Tyro 24 bottom bracket

I just picked up a GF Tyro RST 24"MTB for my oldest. I picked up the GF for $40, to get him on something with gears that would let him pedal up the hills rather than pushing.

This started because I took him out riding with me over the weekend and he loved it, but the hills were to much for him to climb on his BMX.

It looks like the one in the photo (not my bike or photo) but a lot more signs of use, and it's been used a lot but everything works, it shifts smooth, and has plenty of adjustment to fit him.

The only things I noticed when buying it was it needs the grips replaced, a good cleaning and lube, and brake pads will need to be done in the near future.

Closer inspection at home revealed a slight amount of play in the crankset. Does anyone know if there is a simple adjust to take up the play?

Sometimes, the bottom bracket "nut" on the (I believe) non drive side can come loose and allow the spindle to move a bit. To tighten it, you might have to remove the crank arm to get at the "nut". Both tasks require a special tool, but neither is grossly expensive. If the bottom bracket is shot, you'll need those tools to change it anyway.

Thanks for the info, I'll take a closer look.

I'll also need to look into replacing the cable for the rear derailer. It starting to fray, I noticed a few loose strands where it runs under the downtube.

I recently picked up a similar trek for my 9y/o son... he's excited to have a good bike :)... It took a bit of work to set right but wasn't too bad... new shift cables got it shifting nicely and a bit of time with the tacoed wheel got it set true enough... had to lossen all the spokes and then bend the rim then was able to pull it true the rest of the way with spoke tension... not what I would do for an adult ridden bike but on a kids 24" rimed bike its been no issue

anyway... that bike is running a square taper bottom bracket, basically the bb has a slight taper on it and the cranks have a taper that matches it... the bolt on the cranks just pulls the crank tight onto the bottom bracket... sometimes if that bolt backs out or is a bit loose the cranks will start to rock loose... if that is the case the fix is as easy as tightening the crank bolt although if it's been ridden too much with it loose it is possible that the crank's rocking back and forth will make it so it can't be properly tightened... is all you'll need is the appropriately sized hex key if this is the problem

if that doesn't fix it you've got two other possibles... as akamcfly mentioned the bb's actual mounting could be loose, or the bearings could be trash... if this is the problem you'll need a crank puller ~$15 and a bottom bracket tool (for square taper) ~$15... I bought mine about 20 years ago and they still work great (park tools brand)

for removing crank info http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-installation-and-removal-square-spindle-type

for bottom bracket removal info http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt

and as a reminder... WD40 IS NOT a suitable bike "lubricant"

If it has the same adjustable handlebar stem as the one in the photo, make sure all of those bolts are snug. Check the brake cables too, if one cable is fraying, check them all and their housings. Replace any split or damaged housings with the same type, ie: brake housing is different from shift housing. Measure the lengths you need and the shop can cut them to length for you.