I bet most of you know this, and concede that it may be a re-post, but I really want to play... Put a breaker bar on the bolt, in close proximity to a frame rail, or other relatively sturdy chassis part( I like to zip tie for added assurance), and crank the starter, and there you go. Honda and Corvair folks be careful.
And certain jeeps.
A good impact wrench will zip those right off.
More than once I've used a piece of scrap steel, holesawed a spot in the middle to run a socket through then drill holes as necessary to bolt this to the front pulley. Now cut one side of this piece so a tube will slide over it (I use the handle from my floor jack), it winds up looking a little like a cast iron fry pan. Now you can use this and a no-E36 M3 breaker bar to loosen/tighten the crank pulley bolt. Before you laugh, this is patterned after the special tool Subaru specs to tighten their crank bolts.
Works in limited spaces too; I once saw an impact shoved backwards as the bolt came out, this bent the radiator so bad it started leaking.
dculberson wrote: A good impact wrench will zip those right off.
Given the clearance, yeah.
Getting it back tight in the car with the tq wrench is the fun exercise, with a stick I have an assistant hold it in 4th and stand on the brakes. With an auto I've yet to hurt the ring gear jamming a prybar in the inspection hole. Same goes for removing them with a breaker bar.
This works well with my 91 Escort too! I have a 1/2" breaker and socket for my lug nuts which happen to be the same size as the bolt on the harmonic balancer. Being a high mileage non-interference engine (1.9, no AC, power steering or cruise control) I carry the stuff needed in the car and have changed the belt in a parking lot on 19 minutes. On a bet I could get it down to 10 minutes!
Bruce
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