Racing Oil Filters - Do It!

Interesting - I have always looked at the rebuildable race filter setups and wondered if they were really what they claimed to be.

After 4500 rpm, the filter can't keep up with the fluid flow and the oil builds a pressure head, causing weirdness in the oil system

Have you tested any of this?

My Honda S2000 factory oil filter can keep up after 4500 rpms with no problems. It also has a filter bypass built in. 

What makes a filter a "racing" filter?

Not a clue if there is any discernable difference in flow or micron filtration.  When he mentioned raving filter I think of these.

Matt said:

I'm afraid I've never had a road trip with the family where I maintained 4500 rpm...but that's just my experience 

I have driven that S2000 from Florida to California, twice, most of it at or above 5k rpms. No weirdeness in the oil system. 

Thinking back, my e36 M3, which uses the same oil filter as my e46 M3 with an 8200 redline, has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I have yet to see any weirdeness after 4500 rpms.

Just use a quality oil filter, preferably, in my opinion, factory and redline that car all day. 

I'm pretty sure that when OEMs spend millions of development dollars on an engine, they will be sure the oiling system will handle 4500rpm.  I'm even more sure when that engine is intended for a performance platform. 

Minimizing warranty claims is pretty high on their list.

4500rpm is sfa in a modern engine, even a big domestic V8.

I have starved an engine for oil due to poor drain back and windage keeping all the oil in the valley and valve covers but that was hardly the fault of the filter, which was a WIX.

Matt said:

Turn corners fast? Rev your motor? You need a racing oil filter.

 

You're not the boss of me.

In reply to Matt :

Oil foaming has nothing to do with the filter. It has everything to do with the oil and dwell time in the pan. Some oils foam easier and do not dissipate as quickly as others. It would also cause you to have an issue with oil pressure if the pickup is getting foam and not liquid. 

Adding sump capacity, a more dedicated/appropriate oil will help that issue. Using a good filter is always preferred. I've been in the business a bit and have never heard this new "theory" that filters don't work past (insert random rpm). 

EDIT: just looked at your link. Those filters have a nominal filtration to 61 microns. Typical OE filters down to 30. These don't give the beta ratio to determine how effective they are at that rating. Keep in mind most particles under 40 microns are not visible to the naked eye. So your OE style filters are pulling out anything large enough to be seen, and allowing smaller particles that won't interfere with close bearing tolerances. 60+ microns is going to cause wear. 

I would caution use on this because of that alone. They also state that their bypass is set at 28-30psi.What's your oil p[ressure on track at 4-6k rpms?I guarantee it's over 30.... or would hope so for bearing life. This means these filters are in bypass mode,like the OEM, the entire time you're pushing it. 

Basically, this is marketing hype. Much like the early days of "synthetic" oils and "high mileage" additives. As always YMMV etc but I would be doing UOA on these to see how much extra debris and wear that oild is beng forced to carry.

I see Matt has deleted his posts.

In reply to ShawnG :

spam?

EDIT: user name seems to be gone as well.

In reply to bobzilla :

Probably selling racing oil filters.

The red one is good for an extra 5hp

In reply to ShawnG :

For the record I'm not telling people NOT to use them, but be aware of what you're buying. I learned a lot about filtration when they were teaching me about fluid and analysis.

In reply to bobzilla :

As you stated, it's probably running on the bypass anyway.

Less filtration is not better. Best to just change oil more often.