Trying to get that sweet U-PULL-IT wind sheild out without breaking it? Just take an old E-string from your guitar, and a buddy to the junkyard. works every time, and is sort of like a lumberjack competition. Also works with bass strings-round wound, not square wound for the non-musical types.
Done that. Back a couple years ago I get the guy at the counter of the P&P I could get the windshield out. If I got it out I got it for free if I broke it I had to pay him $50. I won the bet :-) I used that exact method. BUT add to it that if you have some of those bondo spreaders I use them to slide in behind the windshield as I work my way around it. This puts just enough pressure up words so the glue does not re bond behind you but it distributes the pressure over the width of the spreader so you don't break the glass. Also sharpen the spreaders on a belt sander. It helps a lot as well.
A question to those that have pull windshields. Is it better to do it in the sun with the car (and the glue hot) or cold / int eh shade with the clue harder. I have always liked to do it when it is really hot and the glue is softer. This is where I figured out the bondo spreader trick.
Another trick is the application foaming silicon spray to the edge of the windshield as you go around it with the wire. WD40 may work as well just have not tried it. This helps lubricate the wire and prevents the adhesive from re sticking one you have cut it. The bad is that the windshield is slippery when you go to remove it so be carful and you have to completely clean it when you go to re-install it.
Back to the bet. The guy wanted me to show him how I did it I said sure but it will cost you $50 so he brought another car up to the dismantling area (an Audi of some type I think) and asked me to pull another one so he could watch. I did and he then paid me another $50. Then he tells me he had one sold it and was waiting on a glass company to come pull it and that would have cost him $100. It was a gamble on his part that I would to brake it but everyone won that day.
When I pulled the glass from my RX7 I used one of these:
I would heat the blade up with a small propane torch and it went through the adhesive like butter.
The last professional that I watched complete a glass change in one of my cars used this.
OF course there are many other versions including the Harbor Freight. It was fast and did not require much strength. The key seemed to be in the cutting insert chosen. Was a smooth bladed cutter that tapered down to a 3-5mm radius tip.
Plus the tool comes in handy for many cutting jobs around the house.
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