Setting up the new to me enclosed trailer

It's old as I am, but rust free from down south. Needs love though. 40ft gooseneck with 32' floor and cabinets. 

First up is the above leg won't carry weight and is clutching out. New pair is over a grand so does anyone know if repair parts are available?

Second is a full set of tires since the current ones are showing significant dry rot. I don't want to change tires every couple hundred miles all year.

Trailer is wired with RV hookup and the whole 120v system looks ok but the 12v system is sketchy. Recommendations on a good way to update this? The systems are independent of each other. Probably no need to change that.

The overhead florescent bulbs is a mess waiting to happen IMO. There must be some drop in led replacements.

Now the bigger issue. I'm from MN, this trailer is black....and therefore will get HOT inside. I need to get setup with AC and a Generator as RV hookup isn't always an option. Additionally I want to be able to run both gas MIG and a TIG for aluminum off the generator. I don't know anything about what all that requires. Would not need to run all the things at once. Just want to be able to have the option of welding when things break at the track. Trailer dies have two vents if that's the best way to put AC in?

So what are my options here? I'd like to have this trailer ready to use in time for Road America end of the month 

Personally I would delete the 120v fluorescent fixtures entirely and replace them with 12v lights.  There's no reason to do 120v lighting in a trailer these days, IMHO.

+1 on ditching the 120v lights and running everything off 12v.  You can use an RV inverter system if you need to plug in, and it will keep the batteries up when plugged in or running of the genset.

Does it have a fuel tank?  If not, I would consider LP to run the genset... it's pretty efficient, with cleaner emissions, and no sloshing fuel.  A couple of 7 gal tanks should fit under the gooseneck.

Your genset size is going to be driven by the needs of your welders and A/C unit, but limited by the available space.  Just make sure the A/C is big enough for the trailer.  RV A/Cs should fit the standard 14"x14" vent cutout.  You probably won't be able to weld with the A/C running...

I have a generator that will do what you need. Do some reading about this model, and if you are interested in it, I'm sure we can work something out. I read your threads, and we go to the same tracks.

In reply to Rodan :

No fuel tank built in. I keep getting recommendations that I'll need two AC units for the trailer size which gets spendy quick. 

Not apposed to going to the 12v system. It needs updates anyway and with LED I'm sure it could charge ok through the truck plug when towing. For just lights anyway. 

If I'm welding I'll have bigger worries going on that AC anyway. 

@racebrick

I've heard those are good gen sets. I'll have to measure the enclosure but this trailer has two options. In the cabinet on the side or up on the gooseneck is setup for a generator too

Asphalt_Gundam said:

Not apposed to going to the 12v system. It needs updates anyway and with LED I'm sure it could charge ok through the truck plug when towing. For just lights anyway. 

I'm a fan of a solar panel on the roof to keep the battery topped up.  Pretty cheap these days and it means one less thing to think about.

Well, I ordered some 12v light strips, a 12v/30A power distribution box, and what's hopefully a decent solar panel system. All in all, pretty cheap if it keeps the battery going with some lights on and maybe some tunes.

Found some deals on generator and AC. Should be picking up the generator today and the AC on Thursday.

Pile of stuff here now and new wheels and tires coming tomorrow. Had to finish up some car stuff then installed the AC this evening.

Pretty straight forward install with good instructions found online. Scored this used for half price of new. Looks like it's nearly new too.

I think the walls might be insulated on this trailer but the roof definitely isn't. What's a good way to do that? 

Also scored this generator last week too. 9k watt, 50A plug (supplies 30A 220v), multiple 110v and a RV 30A plug. Thing has 4.5hrs on it and I paid $700. Retail is 4k. It's a bit noisy but not terrible. Will not fit in the side cubby but it's not the style that space is designed for anyway. Going to mount it up on the front under the cover. Could put sound deadening around it if needed or additional muffling but we'll see how it goes.

Last week, I put 1" styrofoam insulation board between the ribs of the ceiling in my 24' enclosed. It has helped a lot but my little AC unit still can't keep up mid-day when the sun is shining straight down on the roof. Next step, I will probably paint the roof white. Wife was a school bus driver back when they first started painting the roofs white (instead of yellow), temps dropped ~20 degrees inside.

In reply to gsettle :

Wow... Thats a big difference over color! Good to know just the foam insulation helps. Probably the easiest way too, cut and glue. Luckily for me the roof is us already white.

I second the foam insulation glued in. I did that to my camper van and it helped a lot. 

Some people should NOT be doing wiring.....
12ga to jumpstart with???? Bare terminal power blocks??? Wired the plug wrong...so just cross colors at a junction box and shove them all back in...but don't need a cover. 

Started removing a lot of this tonight and am rewiring with a proper power distribution box with fuses. Added two series of LED string lights. Last two pictures is shore powered florescent vs 12v LED. Even found the wires to operate it off the existing wall switch.

No shortage of what needs to be fixed with the existing wiring. I'm really not pleased with the main plug harness and junction box situation.

Also ran the AC for a few hours while I was working. No problems and it was even cooling it's area (set on low fan) enough to be cycling on/off and was a noticeable difference near it even with the doors wide open. Might even be enough if I get the roof insulated.

My enclosed is tiny tiny by comparison, but I'll back up that changing my roof color from bare galvanized steel to white turned an oven to only a bit warmer than ambient. While you are at it, consider painting something on the roof that makes it easier to identify the trailer from the air in case of theft. (And also pop in an air tag somewhere hidden)

I also did a bit of research on good locks for mine and wound up getting https://www.paclock.com/products/ucs_81a/ it's worth getting all the locks you can associated your trailer through them as you can order them keyed alike so you have one key for all things trailer. Plus they have some features that make it more difficult to pick than others. https://youtu.be/7kJw2lkVbZg if where I did a good bit of my research, if you watch that channel, it does come out looking really good compared to most commercially available stuff.

Put on the solar panel today. I really have no idea what to expect out of it other than keeping the battery charged a bit.

Getting ready for autocross at Black River Motorsports Park on Saturday so I packed up the trailer and car. First time loading the car in this trailer. Can already tell I need a different tie down system if I have any hope of leaving the aero on the car later on.

The first time I test loaded in our new (to us) trailer, I was amazed that the previous owner was able to tie down his much larger cars at all.  I ended up adding several tie down points.  These work well and are pretty simple to install:

Amazon - 4 pack D ring tie down

'Airline' track or E track are really nice, but more expensive and more involved to install.

Also, did you use any sealant on the mounting screws for the solar panel?  You will get water intrusion if you didn't...  

The screws had a wash sealer but that's it. I was wondering about it leaking. My plan is to do a complete roof sealant/white (since as pointed out above) it'll be better than just the galvanized roof. Figure I'll just go over the screws too.

I'm willing to put in whatever tie down system I need in order leave the splitter on when loading. I did it today the same as on the open trailer but it was more of a hassle.

Well, your mileage may vary, but for me this wound up making the most sense. 

Trailer had a test run this weekend up to Black River Motorsports Park for autocross on Saturday. I didn't have time to put on the new wheels and tires but didn't have any problems and it pulled fine. Brakes work VERY well!

First thing of note. This bigger trailer seems to be more stable going down the hwy than the open trailer (despite the dry rot LT tires). Probably because of the third axle or just it being enclosed and having the air around it hold it in place???

Running 70mph on the interstate was yielding 10.3mpg vs the open trailer at 12mpg. Hitting the back road hwy and running at 60mph it came up to just under 11mpg. Obviously there's a lot more drag but there are some things I could do to help that.

Trip up was ok but upon opening the trailer a cabinet door had fallen off and other popped open and stuff slid out. Nothing major but upgraded hinges and latches should be added to the list.

My car was good all day, and got FTD. Glad I packed the tools though. Another competitor needed them to fix a trans mount bushing that went for a walk. Track staff found it and he was able to put it back together and get more runs in.

Almost immediately on the way home truck dash tells me "trailer wiring fault". Yes truck...I know the wiring sucks. Lights and brakes still worked so I didn't bother to stop. New plug and lead cable should be here today. Going to start fresh at the plug to a distribution box. Probably run all new wire at some point too.

Going to be hot at Road America this week. Hopefully get the roof coating on tonight.

I love trailer builds, my truck would never pull something this large so I'm living vicariously through this thread lol

Well, Road America was the first real trip with the trailer. Things are good!

Temp was in the 90's the first day. With doors open and a slight breeze it was cooler in the trailer most of the day. I'm sure the roof paint played a part in that, shade and breeze the rest. Still hot in the evening hours we closed the doors and fired up the AC and generator for the night which was Awesome! Slept great because it was nice and cool. We pulled a few cushions out of the pop up camper which almost fit like they're supposed to in the hitch section. Getting up and down it was a little precarious but we had a step stool.

It was nice having a mostly organized tool system that was also easily accessible.... because it got used! Cabinet space is good but I could use more tool box space. 

The wiring still needs help. While it all works my truck keeps complaining of a fault. My guess is with the brake circuit. I didn't have time before the trip to start swapping all the wire over to a new plug (which brand new is wire colored incorrectly vs a standardized layout). Maybe RV vs utility is different in the industry??? Either way I'll get it laid out so everything makes sense at the junction box.

What kind of paint did you use on your roof? How did you prep the roof? How did you apply it?

I still never did mine... it was hot AF in the sun up at Gingerman 2 weeks ago. AC not effective till the sun went down.

In reply to gsettle :

I just got some white roofing sealer stuff from Menards. I swept the roof off, applied it with a brush (roller would be faster/more even). Did a second coat the next day.

If you need to make tiedown changes, look at this style for the tires.

with your full body car the style ealier are difficult to operate, because the body gets in the way.

e-track is nice because it allows you to move the car around as needed. For instance if you are carrying more tools or tires in the front you can scoot the car back to offset the tongue weight.

Nice trailer, you're moving fast on good upgrades

mechanicalmeanderings said:

If you need to make tiedown changes, look at this style for the tires.

I have a set of those, which we used for our ZL1.  Be aware that you need enough e-track in front/back of the car to get the ratchet out from under the car or you may not have room to manipulate it.  I really like the concept, but it can be difficult with a low car.

Low car is why I want to switch to something much easier to strap down. 

That's the style I was thinking of doing. The question is how hard is it to get the straps over the tires and it hooked into the E track, while in the trailer? Things are tight in there.

Talking with a few others at the track the other week it was brought up to possibly ad extra tow points on the front and rear to have easy access tie down. My concern in how much suspension movement would be in play with the straps constantly getting a little slack then snapped tight over time...