My buddy who owns the car dealership I sell my cars through has this 1995 Dodge Dakota manual behind his lot.
The truck is a manual and is rust free. It starts up and runs but has a blown head gasket. It is a short box single cab.
He would like $500 for this truck. It would be a great truck for next years challenge.
I can be reached through a PM or on my cell phone at 9o4- for six five-o458.
This is a 2.5 Chrysler with an AX15 5 speed. The turbo 2.5 will bolt in, and the 2.4 is one bellhousing bolt and a set of mounts away from fitting. I'd already be working out details if I could afford to buy it and get it back north.
Trade for a B13 Sentra?
moparman76_69 wrote: This is a 2.5 Chrysler with an AX15 5 speed. The turbo 2.5 will bolt in, and the 2.4 is one bellhousing bolt and a set of mounts away from fitting. I'd already be working out details if I could afford to buy it and get it back north.
SOHC Turbo parts won't work on a Dakota, the turbo exhaust oultlet runs into the control arm.
So a custom solution is needed and at that point, a 2.4 Turbo is a better starting point, unless you have the older stuff laying around and can fab a new outlet and/or exhaust manifold.
Is there a Mopar 2.5 turbo or non turbo that never had a head gasket go bad? But still this is worth the asking price imo.
Anyone coming up the eastern seaboard w/ a trailer in the near future??
Damnit... what else is out there?
Missing PS belt... Odd.
i would love to have the ax15 for my cherokee
drainoil wrote: Is there a Mopar 2.5 turbo or non turbo that never had a head gasket go bad? But still this is worth the asking price imo.
It's a wear item. The different expansion rates of the cast iron block and the aluminum cylinder head slowly tears up the headgasket. This is the same for all engines with dissimilar materials. Proper gasket material, surface finishes, fastener type and torque values, etc all play a part in longevity.
Using a more modern headgasket design like the Mopar Performance, Fel-Pro or even an MLS piece from Cometic will increase longevity to modern levels when combined with ARP head bolts or studs.
Proper cooling is important and the 89 and newer blocks are all mostly built from the same cores and are "crossdrilled" to reduce the temperature between the cylinders and at the gasket surface. Earlier blocks, aside from some of the higher end turbo blocks, did not receive this improvement.
There are other improvements that can be made: like adding a diverter flap to the water pump outlet to force water along the front of the block. Or, adding a 1/4" water line from the top of the water pump outlet, near the block to the driver's side coolant freeze plug on the cylinder head. Both help reduce thermal imbalances across the cylinders, improve longevity and increase power output since the ECU no longer has to alter fueling and ignition to try and manage the imbalances via the output of the knock sensor.
Ranger50 wrote: Damnit... what else is out there? Missing PS belt... Odd.
Probably leaks. Common on Chrysler's of the period. A later ZF pump (plastic reservoir, aluminum body) and adjustment bracket can be retrofitted since the hose uses a banjo style end on the pump and the adjuster is much easier to deal with.
In reply to Stefan (Not Bruce):
Just easier to put a manual rack in....
In reply to Ranger50:
Whatever floats your boat, but they tend to have horrible ratios and generally suck for spirited driving.
Hmm. Does a 4g64 fit?
In reply to penultimeta:
Not directly. You're thinking of the Mighty Max or Ram 50. Some of which already had single cam 4g64s or 4g63s.
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