Wait, maybe you explained this already, but what's the plan for the ignition? You've got an older MSD box and a breaker wheel with pickup and a cam position sensor running off of the fuel pump lobe on the cam. How do these items all relate to each other?
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
MsPro or Megasquirt III most likley.
Greg
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:Wait, maybe you explained this already, but what's the plan for the ignition? You've got an older MSD box and a breaker wheel with pickup and a cam position sensor running off of the fuel pump lobe on the cam. How do these items all relate to each other?
My plan for the initial start-up is to have the MS3 ECU read the crank and cam triggers and use them to fire the MSD box with a Lean Burn distributor. There's a good chance I might do a dyno shootout of the MSD box against a distributorless ignition like our IGN-1As.
"There's a good chance I might do a dyno shootout of the MSD box against a distributorless ignition like our IGN-1As."
I love this idea.
More prep work, now with a drill and wire brush to dislodge rust.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Getchu a cup brush attachment for an angle grinder, the kind with the knotted bristles.
maschinenbau said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Getchu a cup brush attachment for an angle grinder, the kind with the knotted bristles.
And a full face shield. Those things are wicked.
maschinenbau said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Getchu a cup brush attachment for an angle grinder, the kind with the knotted bristles.
Make sure it has some easy way to remove it. I got a cheap one from the hammer store and none of my wrenches fit on the damned thing. Gloves didn't help cause I couldn't get enough of a grip on it. I ended up having to wrap rags around it and into the bristles, then put the rags in a vice and use that to unscrew it.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
That's why I don't buy grinder consumables from HF anymore. After I had a disc come apart, I decided only name-brand stuff is allowed to spin at 10,000 RPM.
For the hundreds of thoes cup knotted wire wheels I have used I can feel that in my wrist.
An angle grinder brush wheel would probably be handy if I did a lot of engine compartments. And had a good quality angle grinder.
But it looks like the main problem I've hit are areas that I can't get the large brush into. So I went smaller.
The brush work is pretty much over. Now I may need to pressure wash the engine compartment a second time to get all the brushing debris out.
I would strongly recommend some ospho or POR 15 metal ready or some other type of rust converter in those areas after you're done pressure washing. Follow it up with some rattle can matte ring primer and then a top coat of your choice. I have had very good luck with Rust-Oleum light gray color.
Good call, I'll see if I can find something like that to put over the rust spots.
All right, I've got a bottle of this green acid... what can possibly go wrong?
I'm testing it on this random bit of sheet metal as a before and after comparison by only painting about half of it (leaving some room around a sticker that won't come off). Before:
About 30 minutes after:
Painting it on the firewall...
Some of the thinner rust seems to get dissolved outright.
Let's hope this rust remover doesn't remove the whole engine compartment.
You can setup EvapoRust so that it gets pushed through a small pump and squirts on whatever you're de-rusting. Need a collection pan deep enough to run the pump, but it works fairly well.
The test piece of metal now.
The rust in the engine compartment has turned from brown to black.
One last pressure washing, and the next step will be to mask off what I don't want painted.
Sure enough, brake cleaner removes some of the grime that wouldn't fall to Simple Green, pressure washing, or the wire wheel. I wonder what the EPA fine would be if I fed a 55 gallon drum of brake cleaner through a pressure washer? Might still be worth it...
Masked (thanks to 300zxfreak for the tip about tinfoil!) and primered.
Aluminum foil is the best for masking! Engine bay is looking pretty great. A 55 gallon drum of brake clean is something of a fantasy of mine too. It's so expensive by the can, especially at the rate I seem to go through it.
Mezzanine said:Aluminum foil is the best for masking! Engine bay is looking pretty great. A 55 gallon drum of brake clean is something of a fantasy of mine too. It's so expensive by the can, especially at the rate I seem to go through it.
A quick googling shows it's available in gallon and 5 gallon containers.
Painted the K member a very glossy black, without masking. Once this dries, I'll mask the K-member and paint the rest white.
Make sure to scuff the glossy black overspray before shooting the rest.
And id wipe down the bay with wax and grease remover as well after masking and before shooting. It will help prevent fisheye and horrible textures and such.
Id also (if it were me).use a red prep pad (like scotchbrite) over the primer in between masking and wiping to make sure you have a good surface to paint to.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Make sure to scuff the glossy black overspray before shooting the rest.
And id wipe down the bay with wax and grease remover as well after masking and before shooting. It will help prevent fisheye and horrible textures and such.
Id also (if it were me).use a red prep pad (like scotchbrite) over the primer in between masking and wiping to make sure you have a good surface to paint to.
Thanks, I gave the scuffing trick a try.
Unfortunately, turns out two cans of Rustoleum weren't enough. Also looks like I'll need a second coat.
Second coat, first for much of the core support.
I wonder if any Mopar concors purists are going to be annoyed that I painted the windshield wiper motor to match the body, and if so, how far down the list of mods they'll have to get before they reach that.
I don't think many purists care about a bodies much unless they are 2 door factory v8 cars.
Your car is set up the way you want it.
Greg
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