And the valve body is back together.
Got a bit freaked out when I realized I was short three long screws, then remembered they were with the filter.
There's a couple other parts that need to go in the transmission - servo springs and the like.
And the valve body is back together.
Got a bit freaked out when I realized I was short three long screws, then remembered they were with the filter.
There's a couple other parts that need to go in the transmission - servo springs and the like.
Very impressive. Auto trans valve bodies are still unknown territory to me, therefore I fear them.
TransGo had some pretty good instructions. The main difficulty I had dealing with the valve body is that it has a bunch of springs that tend to go sproing. But I was able to track down all the springs and all but one of the check balls.
There aren't any dowel pins locating the two halves of the pump. The usual trick is to wrap it with a hose clamp before bolting it back together.
The last step in the directions is to change the reverse / low band servo spring. Managed to get the servo out without pulling the tailshaft. The way to do that is to unbolt the band adjustment screw, work the lever forward, then pop out the band strut. At that point you can pull the servo out.
Unfortunately, the stiffer spring they provided gets stuck on the servo spring.
So in that case, the directions say, "If spring won’t fit retainer or piston reuse original spring."
Looks like that was a waste of time... but at least now I know I'm not supposed to use their spring. 
Probably wasn't any way to tell what exactly was in there in advance.
The right tools can make all the difference installing the servos.
But I didn't let that stop me, and I poked the snap ring in with a slotted screwdriver. Took a while, but probably less time than going out and buying the right tools, whatever they are.
Getting the oil pump back in. The screws aren't long enough to engage the holes directly, so I cut some 5/16"-18 allthread to make a pair of studs.
Then I put a pair of hexnuts on the studs and tightened them down to get the pump back in place.
Now I just need to get the upgraded kickdown band strut on there and the bands adjusted, and I can button everything back up and put the transmission back in.
I'm never trying this.
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:I'm never trying this.
I've found that all I needed to work on an automatic transmission has been some basic tools, a factory service manual, and a delusional level of overconfidence.
Time to put in the A&A band strut. It's much thicker than the original:
Installing it (once the transmission is taken this far apart already) is just a matter of loosening up the front band, popping the old strut out, and popping the new one in.
Now I just need to get the bands adjusted and put the valve body and transmission pan back on, and I'm ready to get the transmission back in there.
MadScientistMatt said:I've found that all I needed to work on an automatic transmission has been some basic tools, a factory service manual, and a delusional level of overconfidence.
I like your style.
Today's work: Adjusting the bands and a few other things so that tomorrow all I'll need to do is to get the valve body back in and the transmission buttoned back up.
Skookum as Frig Parts in the 'ol 904 - Should be good for over 600HP if built correctly.
A&A parts = good stuff!
Greg
Got the valve body back in after a brief scare about one of the bolts having gone missing.
Then I got ready to install the pan with the gasket that Trans-Go conveniently provides...
...for a 727 transmission. I'll need to get the right gasket for a 904.
Get one of the nice resuable ones.
Slantsixdan has a post to the part# over at the slant six forum.
I like them for when you have the pan on / off a bunch.
I usually go for the Dacron Wix filter instead of the ol' fine mesh filter too.
Greg
I picked up a plain Fel-Pro so I can get things back together without any waiting (got it this morning before I saw that post). But I presume you mean this gasket? I already have their valve cover gasket.
But if I take the pan off again, that gasket, a pan with a drain plug, and a filter I can't see through all look like worthwhile upgrades.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Yes those are all recommended..
I was not thinking that gasket.. but that would be a step up from what you have..
From slantsixdan..
• A 1964-up transmission pan or a brand-new pan. Nice, sturdy new deep pans with unwarped rails for the A904 (i.e., the stock A500 pan) can be had as Chrysler part № 52118 779AD, and they even include a spiffy magnet to catch metallic shavings. Whether you go that route or install a used '64-up pan, save yourself a bunch of current and future hassle: Discard the floppy cork or rubber pan gasket that comes with the filter kit. Instead, use Chrysler's own really nice double-seal, reusable rigid pan gasket № 4295 875AC. These part numbers are for A904 transmissions, which have a roughly square-shaped transmission pan with one corner cut off.
Greg
Interesting find following those links: looks like there's a Dorman transmission pan for less than the Mopar one that already includes a drain plug. I'd like to use a cast aluminum pan, but like keeping the money that would cost in my pocket better. Might keep my eyes out for a used one.
The pan had a bit of dirt in it, so I gave it a cleaning.
You may remember that the pan had gloss black paint a few posts up. Turns out that wasn't paint.
And now the transmission is back together.
I'll put it in with the Fel-Pro gasket and the original pan, and see if there's any leaks. If so, I'll get a new pan, better gasket, and filter on order.
Big thanks to Carl, Frank, and Randy at work for helping get the transmission back in - this time, I didn't have anything snap bolting it back to the engine.
I keep checking the thread to see if the fuel pump eccentric to cam position sensor interface works as well as theory says it should.
Patience, patience, the Torqueflite gods had been slighted and need to be appeased first...
Minor update to let you know this one hasn't been forgotten. Lately, it's mostly been attaching various minor things, often under the car, poorly lit, and hard to photograph the work without getting grease all over my phone. Like the transmission crossmember:
Torque converter screws:
And starter:
More updates from the "it's dark here and I don't want grease all over the phone" realm under the car:
Once I get the kickdown and shift linkage fully connected, I'll be back in the engine compartment where I can get better pictures.
Almost have the transmission hooked up, but I found that the end of the Lokar kickdown cable is missing. So I drew a rectangle on their part picture to explain to their support what was lost, and they replied pretty quickly with the part number for just the missing piece.
So while I wait for that to arrive, I'll be working this week on getting more parts back under the hood. I remember seeing somebody here discussing using a set of rod ends to make an alternator adjustment bracket - I think that would be pretty useful here, too.
Lokar's cable end shipped Monday and arrived today. Pretty good with everyone shipping their Christmas presents.
Unfortunately, the cable housing looks like this.
And I can't seem to find the AN cable cutter. I have a couple things I need to order from Summit anyway if it doesn't turn up soon. When I cut the cable this time, I'll be sure to cover the end with heat shrink tubing.
Going to order an AN hose cutter, rod ends for the alternator bracket, and some other things from Summit. In the meantime, I'll get the radiator in. Wait, how did it ever fit in the first place?
OK, took the fans off and bolted it in.
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