OjaiM5 said:I'm sorry if you covered this already, I looked through the thread to see if I could find the answer first. Where are the throttle bodies from? The oddly look like what is on my M5 but with 2 missing.
And yeah, this is a killer project!
that's exactly what they are- ITBs for an E39 M5.
OjaiM5 said:I'm sorry if you covered this already, I looked through the thread to see if I could find the answer first. Where are the throttle bodies from? The oddly look like what is on my M5 but with 2 missing.
And yeah, this is a killer project!
The ITBs are actually from a v8 M3...though the air horns are from an M5(they dont exactly fit right to be honest, but my air horn options are very limited until I buy a 3D printer(a very weird size to work with), so they will have to work for the time being). I was also considering using the V10 M5 throttle bodies but went with these due to fuel rail considerations(these ones allowed me to adapt a Duratec30 fuel rail and run it inside rather than outside where space was limited) In retrospect, if I had to choose again, I would probably choose the v8 M5 throttle bodies because they have a flange that allows air horns to bolt on, rather than these which are coupler based(couplers make air box removal and installation a real PITA)
That is awesome!I am sure you already know this but there are some really cool aftermarket velocity stacks for those ITBS.
have any drill bit large enough for the starter hole(seem to have lost my expensive step-bit)
The only way I have a drill bit large enough for 1/2 npt is that it happens to be the biggest size on one of my stepper bits, so.. i feel that lol.
OjaiM5 said:That is awesome!I am sure you already know this but there are some really cool aftermarket velocity stacks for those ITBS.
This is true....but every single stack kit I have seen for BMWs(whether they are M3s or M5s) are $1000+....which is ridiculous . At that price, I might as well buy a lathe and start metal-spinning my own(it actually seems to be faily simple once you make a good mold
Progress by inches:
The new ITB vacuum tank system slowly coming together
Tacking together a new engine crossmember to clear the custom pan.
Finished up the crossmember today(now it just gets added to my ever growing pile of fabbed parts needing paint or powdercoating)
Does anyone out there hate bondo-sculpting work as much as I do? Working on the plug for the fiberglass/carbon fiber air box here....such a tedious process, I can't wait for this to be over so I can do some real work.
Alright, I'm interested. I'm doing a similar swap with an MS3Pro Evo and a 3.7. Are you using VVT for all 4 cams?
In reply to fomoco01 :
That is the plan...or rather I plan to split the output to sync the intake cams together and exhaust cams together(not sure if that is how the factory does it...they may tune by each bank for all I know) Come to think of it, if I do it that way I should only need to run 2 out of the 4 cam inputs. Pretty sure with the ITBs and the equal length headers every cylinder should end up flowing almost identically.
Very cool project. I strongly considered the 3.7 V6 for my TVR project, but was scared off by my lack of engine control experience.
I would definitely like to do something with one in the future, so I'll be watching with interest.
In reply to TVR Scott :
I would love to get my hands on a TVR(not that it will ever happen here in the states). THe Ginetta G50 uses the Ford 3.7L as well...I think they run them on a Haltec or Motec(can't remember which) and have them tuned pretty aggresively.
More boring plug work...adding air inlets to the airbox...also drew out where I plan to place the polycarbonate top window...in theory at least...seeing if I can come up with a more interesting window design.
In reply to Wicked93gs :
Hmm I was considering the same thing but wasn't sure if that would be too much load having 2 solenoids on a single output. Might be worth looking into. Does the MS3 have 4 VR conditioners for the cam sensors? I've been looking into options because the MS3P Evo only has 3 Dig freq inputs that are conditioned for VR sensors. That's a good point about the throttle bodies, I would imagine the flow should be pretty similar on all runners. Looking forward to seeing how those turn out!
fomoco01 said:In reply to Wicked93gs :
Hmm I was considering the same thing but wasn't sure if that would be too much load having 2 solenoids on a single output. Might be worth looking into. Does the MS3 have 4 VR conditioners for the cam sensors? I've been looking into options because the MS3P Evo only has 3 Dig freq inputs that are conditioned for VR sensors. That's a good point about the throttle bodies, I would imagine the flow should be pretty similar on all runners. Looking forward to seeing how those turn out!
Luckily there is more than one way to skin a cat, I was planning on using a couple of these if I need 4 VR conditioner circuits:
https://www.ebay.com/p/527428141?iid=282773596435&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=282773596435&targetid=899818278364&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9013636&poi=&campaignid=9248523520&mkgroupid=93042821039&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-899818278364&abcId=1141156&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAiAhJTyBRAvEiwAln2qB9AEHtm2Qaff4ejSAhA83-N9P2wNDQiQwxonjdyvc92WluLj1Wf2PBoCvNwQAvD_BwE
So now that I have determined that 3M 5200 Marine adhesive works to glue the rubber couplers and steel flanges together....I am going to go a completely direction:
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I went ahead and hand cut some flanges to weld to the throttle bodies...found a trick to get a pretty good result with just an angle grinder and a hole-saw. While a lathe and a band saw are definitely on my to buy list...I got away with this this time
I think I have a little bit of TIG welding to do this weekend.
I still have to decide whether I want to use these Weber carb stacks or go another route...I will have to modify them(of course) if I want to use them though since the inside diamter at the flange is 2mm too narrow for the tubing I am using. I would need to cut them about an inch above the flange and re-weld a modified flange there where the inside diameter is correct...a lot of work to end up with a stainless steel trumpet on aluminum tubing...still trying to find a good aluminum stack solution.
Flange work continues...at least up until I ran out of argon...will have to finish the stack flanges later...just tacked them for now to get the clocking correct...not much room for error there.
Up on the rotisserie and ready to go to finish up the metal work underneath...now I finally have something to do for the next few weeks. I never thought getting the car onto the rotisserie would be such a long process though...had to modify this thing to fit the car...no clue what car this homebult thing was made for...but it sure wasnt a mustang, borrowed it from a friend. If I had to make a guess it was used for restoring MGs or Triumphs or something else equally small...barely fit the Mustang
looking good mate. gixxer 750 2006 has 50mm tb´s if you need more air.
The curved stacks look soooo good though.
After some sandblasting..."fun" I finally was able to spray the shell in epoxy primer
While there's tons of inspiring work being done on this car, my personal favorite detail is the jack point on the engine cross member. A detail that gets overlooked so often but is so damn helpful. I'd smile every time I went to put that car in the air.
Massive amount of work done.
I've had the idea for a while now to swap the 3.7 V6 and driveline into one of the '80s 3.8L V6 powered Mercury Capris I have. Tripling the HP with nearly the same size engine while getting better economy and more power than any Ford FOXbody pushrod V8 ever had sounds like a win. My wife has the AWD version of that in her Lincoln MKZ. THAT could be a fun swap too, but a whole lot more work.
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