You seem to have this down to an art.
You seem to have this down to an art.
In reply to NOHOME :
I'll take terrible artist I guess 
Definitely getting better tho
Loving the progress - I can't see me doing half of the body work / cleanup of the exterior your doing.
Will echo the quiet exhaust - big wagon body with thin metal has made a ton of resonance in the interior on mine and I exit past the bumper, with 2 full cans. I'm actually thinking of adding cats to help dampen the noise and help control fumes / gas smell.
In reply to jronald :
Thank you. I have not idea what I'm doing! Never done body work before.
Yeah I see tus drone issue with big sheet metal voids. Hopefully not much stink with efi.
Any reason to not use a different brand of epoxy for the second go around? I can get the Omni locally, but its $$. Eastwood will ship straight to me.
And part two, should I spray the primer two tone? Gray body, white roof? I want to get it in epoxy and drive it for a bit. Not sure its worth the effort to spray the roof white. Also.... any reason not to mix a quart of gray and a quart of black together to make a darker gray?
One panel at a time! Ready for second coat I think. Pretty close! 
You seem to have figured out when it is right and when it is not right, so the rest is just speed.
You will hit a new level of learning once you shoot the high fill and start blocking.
In reply to NOHOME :
A new level...... Sounds daunting....
Thoughts on the paint Q's?
It's yellow again
java230 said:Any reason to not use a different brand of epoxy for the second go around? I can get the Omni locally, but its $$. Eastwood will ship straight to me.
And part two, should I spray the primer two tone? Gray body, white roof? I want to get it in epoxy and drive it for a bit. Not sure its worth the effort to spray the roof white. Also.... any reason not to mix a quart of gray and a quart of black together to make a darker gray?
This is where I had much knashing of teeth and rending of clothes moment.
What you are sposed to do now is shoot the high fill and block sand the car until it is perfect, Then you seal it and then you paint it.
BUT the regular featherfill is not really meant to be sprayed on bare metal. You are supposed to spray epoxy on the bare metal THEN do the featherfill. Dont use etch primer cause it messes with the curing of the polyester fillers like featherfill.
From where you are, I ended up doing epoxy on the entire car. Like you are proposing, I used a different brand of epoxy over the filler than what was used over the metal.
The car has a base of epoxy that I have done filler over, Same as you have
The it got covered in a layer or two of some nasty BASF chromated epoxy primer that has been banned for being too good. I think I scuffed that down to 200 but not to metal.
Then I shot the gray featherfill and started to block sand the car flat.
You can see the high fill sanded down to where it exposes the epoxy, and in some cased even filler or a bit of metal. Did two rounds of the featherfill.
Then I mixed up a pail of 2k urethane sealer reduced so that it was a high build primer ( nowhere as high build as featherfill)
Sanded this down to like 320 if I recall. You can see where even now a few high spots pop up and you see the featherfill
Then I mixed the urethane 2k as a sealer and shot that. Sanded down to 600 , You can tell at this point is is going to be pretty flat
When sanded down to 600 there are very few breakthrough to the layers bellow.
Then wash the car to see how you did. That is wet with water, not clearcoat
The choice you are going to have to make is where to stop. You can shoot the whole car in epoxy as soon as you think you are done with the filler, and call it done and drive it, Epoxy wont care and should patiently wait until you want to come back and do more blocksanding. Thing is, until you do the blocking with the high build, you wont get the full benefit of what you have done so far. Epoxy over filler is going to be a bit rough in spots. I will let you decide.
As to mixing epoxy colors? I have no insight into that, usually it is just a tint, so should not be a problem, Dark primer for dark colors and light for light is the rule.
Pete
In reply to NOHOME :
Thank you again as always. Just went back thru your thread yesterday.
I am thinking shoot epoxy and drive. I want to drive for a bit now. Thinking Eastwood as they are cheap ish and ship to me.
White roof, gray body (as Intend the final colors to be). Quart enough to do the roof? I think it should be. Used about 2-2.5 total last time. But think I could shoot heavier coats. I mixed 3 and didn't touch the third one really.
Got the other fender hung, it doesn't seem to fit as well as the old one, but its in a little better shape.
a little better.....
Got things in another layer....
My googling bought me to lots of hot rod guys saying they like SPI paints.
So I placed an order as they will ship direct to me. White epoxy for the roof, gray for the body. Talked to them about UV, it has som inhibitors in it, supposed to be good for 8 years.
That thing is really coming together. I dig the two-tone epoxy idea.
In reply to 84FSP :
Thank you! Fingers crossed I can go back to work on the 4th. That gives me another week of couple hour days. Kinda doubt I'll get it sprayed that quick, but I'm gonna try.
Interested in how the white epoxy roof comes out - white is in my plan, just for AC assistance in the heat (but I like the look too). I was going to go with Henry's Tropicool, since its a thicker coating that helps with heat control. Imagine the white epoxy performs somewhat inbetween that and a different color.
In reply to jronald :
I'm interested too! We will find out.
After we fixed all the rust and mods on the race car, we shot the underside, interior, and engine bay with Eastwood grey epoxy primer.
After that we shot the same bits with a 2K clearcoat
The car is five years old now and it's held up pretty well - except where the jacks and jack stands go.
In reply to Honsch :
That looks really good!
Good news and bad news, I get to go back to work Monday! But that's also going to slow things on the travelall way back down.
Got another couple hours in yesterday. These two doors are getting close. I am having to "rebuild" the body line on both, a bit of a new challenge. Accident damage on both.
I think this is about ready for another light coat.
Need to take off more in the circle,and carefully try to work up a body line there.
Looking good so far, just a boatlod of square feet to do!
Saw this Eastwood product that might be of interest. I my experience, the high fill spray on poly on top of the filler makes a big difference. The problem is that Featherfill is not meant to be done on top of bare metal, meaning that you either need to do a lot of spot priming with epoxy, or shoot the whole car and then high fill.
Eastwood makes a DTM poly high fill that solves that problem. Just shoot a layer on top of the filler and block it out to get a good paintable surface. I found that the high build poly can be sanded to 400 and that would be fine for an epoxy top-coat.
In reply to NOHOME :
Yeah I Think you posted that stuff earlier. I am getting to the Berk it point. I am going to finish this round of bondo work, spray epoxy and get a windhiseld installed. I want to drive it.
And I thought this panel looked flat
java230 said:My googling bought me to lots of hot rod guys saying they like SPI paints.
So I placed an order as they will ship direct to me. White epoxy for the roof, gray for the body. Talked to them about UV, it has som inhibitors in it, supposed to be good for 8 years.
I've used SPI primers and clears in the past and always had great results with their products.
In reply to Cotton :
Good to hear. I did a lot of googling and lots of hot rod guys liked it.
You'll need to log in to post.
