In reply to java230 :
That will work.
Remember, coarse makes flat, fine makes smooth.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Good to know! I don't know if I even have any 220....
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Supposedly. Reviews seem mixed. I have dry guide coat on hand.
I used black lacquer primer. Dunno how the dry stuff works!
What i learned is to not go chasing the low spots necessarily. Its way easier to fill lows with high build than it is to tap down highs.
Nohome gave some good text tips ehen i was at that stage, but muly experience boiled down to going with an x pattern in 220 until I had the whole panel done, reading the panel to the best of my ability to see what could be sanded more and what needed filler/primer. I got a feel for it after a while. But not sure how to explain....
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Ill see what its looking like once I get paper on the panels :D
In reply to 84FSP :
I'm wearing my mask!
It does show the highs/lows a bit. And makes a ton of dust!
Ordered soft sanders to help with the curves. That was all with the big boy. It just fits on the doors too!
Man a 30" block is a quick reminder how NOt flat it really is.... It really does turn gray when its sanded flat. It just really does not show up in the pics.
The hood and this fender are not too bad.
You can kinda see the highs and lows here.
But the hood blocked out pretty well!
Front of this fender, not great.
Adn door made me immediately sad. I quit for the night. The pink really washes the pics out.... Its not great.
This was all 220, I amy call SPI and see what they think about the epoxy sticking well to 220. Its not very toothy. I may drop to 180.
you have made great progress with this behemoth! it looks better than you think. you're suffering from "i know where to look" syndrome.
Epoxy will stick just fine to the 220.
The really long sanding blocks can be a bit hard to control. Something in the 20" lengths sanding in a cross section should give you more control.
Remember, you are going to shoot epoxy over this. You can afford to have several sand-throughts since the constant you are looking for is a flat 220 grit surface. That surface can be filler if it so happens to be a high spot you sanded into. Or you can do local touch ups of anything really egregious.
Overall I think you are in pretty good shape.
Pete
SPI said their epoxy will be fine to 800 if I wanted. He did mention I should induce for 4 hours to overnight if possible for best UV resistance.
I am just doing the big flat areas with the big board (seems like most of it now :D ), I just hit the hood ridge with one end when I didn't see that side of it, its long.
I know I don't have enough material on to be able to sand out some of the areas. Oh well. I just don't know how much will show in final shiny paint. Its really hard to get in the pictures, in person the high/low areas are super obvious. It really does go gray.
Still gonna drive it in epoxy right?
If so, then it dont really matter that this be perfect. You can easily go over the spots that stick in your craw when you go to paint over the epoxy primer.
This was my first coat of high fill. It showed me where I still had filler that I could have sanded flatter. So I did. I think I did two rounds of high fill, but in both instances there was some sand-through to filler. Just part of the game.
Then I shot the Urethane over that, or in your case epoxy.
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