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pres589 (djronnebaum)
pres589 (djronnebaum) UltimaDork
5/29/24 10:12 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

Maybe easier/safer/more likely to go well if the pan was removed from the engine and worked on a bench instead of in situ?  Also I think there are concerns welding/burning brake clean and the kinds of fumes that result.  

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 10:16 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

No crack I think. I will clean and inspect tonight.

In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :

Engine must be removed for pan to be removed.....

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/29/24 11:49 a.m.

In reply to java230 :

Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!?!

this is just a setback. You'll get there. 

Recon1342
Recon1342 UltraDork
5/29/24 11:59 a.m.

In reply to java230 :

I like NOHOME's plan, and then JB Weld any cracks. 

Shavarsh
Shavarsh Dork
5/29/24 12:34 p.m.

Is the only concern sealing the drain plug? Or are you concerned about clearance to the pickup/crank etc. If it's just sealing the plug, then you can weld a new bung in somewhere flat, then seal the old one up. 

NY Nick
NY Nick GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/29/24 1:17 p.m.

Could you do the dent puller idea with one of these and skip the drain and clean and fill with CO2 etc?

Not saying you can, putting the idea out for the hive to evaluate:

https://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-61433.html?_br_psugg_q=dent+puller+kit

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 1:52 p.m.

In reply to Shavarsh :

Yes, sealing the drain plug is my concern. The impact was in the sump area, so I don't think there's any crank interference concerns

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 1:53 p.m.

In reply to NY Nick :

I have a stud welder, but I don't think it's going to be strong enough. The pan is pretty thick metal. I'm really just trying to pull the area around the bolt hole so that it will seal again

Shavarsh
Shavarsh Dork
5/29/24 2:07 p.m.

How about a thick crush washer with a small OD? is there any flat area at the bottom of the threads? 

 

Or maybe you can find a short pipe section with the same threads that can be epoxied in place, then you can tap the bottom of the pipe for the plug.

 

Edit: Look into "piggy back" oil drain plugs

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/29/24 2:22 p.m.

Looks like it should be a 1/2-20 thread on the drain plug. Maybe an eye bolt with that thread in the drain plug hole to hook a slide hammer onto?

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 3:02 p.m.

In reply to Shavarsh :

There was just a plastic washer on it. I think o ring and or a new copper? washer may do the trick.

In reply to EvanB :

I forgot to grab the plug this morning.... But yes around 1/2xwho knows.

llysgennad
llysgennad HalfDork
5/29/24 3:05 p.m.

You might be able to remove the pan by undoing the motor mounts, jacking up the engine a couple of inches and removing the tie rod. I did it on a similar Int truck long ago. And on my Jeep.

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 9:48 p.m.

Battery is on charger

I don't have much hope. It was at 1.2 volts...... 

But it's on jack stands. Floor cleaning and wipe down incoming. 

 

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
5/29/24 10:10 p.m.

In reply to java230 :

Then get a spare drain plug, weld a threaded rod to it and screw it in. Using some random bar of angle or whatever, make a puller that used the welded thread to pull the drain plug into place. If you dont have a welded, drill and tap the spare plug. 

There are things like this toggle bolt but make sure you practice removal before using it

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
5/29/24 10:14 p.m.

Then there are the "Oh E36 M3 I stripped the drain plug" options. 

 

 

 

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 10:21 p.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

A high temp boat drain plug was floated at work today! Definitely an option. I'm going to focus on paint for now. 

 

I don't see any cracks tho 

 

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
5/29/24 10:44 p.m.

The "Boat plug" option is something that quick-change oil places keep on hand cause bad things do happen and they see it all.

Shavarsh
Shavarsh Dork
5/29/24 11:08 p.m.

Just make sure you tape over the hole before paint!

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/30/24 6:44 a.m.

Sitting here thinking about sines and cosines and all that, I'd be willing to bet you can get your alignment back into spec with a toe adjustment. Unless the drag link interferes with something as you steer lock to lock, I'd send it as is and worry about a replacement later. 

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/30/24 8:12 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Agree. I'm not sure drag link is the right term, it does Connect both sides, but also the steering box.

but I'm going to get my big ass Burke bar and get it as straight as I can and send it. 

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/30/24 8:13 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

Boat plug will be last resort, but it should work if needed. 

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/30/24 6:06 p.m.

Let's go! 

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/30/24 7:02 p.m.

Use 2/3 of a pint of black pigment in the three quarts of Gray base. I sprayed just over 4 quarts

 

 

Lots of random crap in the paint, but such is life. It's progress.

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/30/24 7:14 p.m.

Oh and good news. Speedy glass says they can get a windshield! ~$330 and it's only a state away. I'll order in a week or two I think. 

Dusterbd13-michael
Dusterbd13-michael MegaDork
5/30/24 7:33 p.m.

Him getting the strangest feeling in my britches again...

 

Looking GREAT from here!!

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