In reply to NOHOME :
Maybe easier/safer/more likely to go well if the pan was removed from the engine and worked on a bench instead of in situ? Also I think there are concerns welding/burning brake clean and the kinds of fumes that result.
In reply to NOHOME :
Maybe easier/safer/more likely to go well if the pan was removed from the engine and worked on a bench instead of in situ? Also I think there are concerns welding/burning brake clean and the kinds of fumes that result.
In reply to NOHOME :
No crack I think. I will clean and inspect tonight.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
Engine must be removed for pan to be removed.....
In reply to java230 :
Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!?!
this is just a setback. You'll get there.
Is the only concern sealing the drain plug? Or are you concerned about clearance to the pickup/crank etc. If it's just sealing the plug, then you can weld a new bung in somewhere flat, then seal the old one up.
Could you do the dent puller idea with one of these and skip the drain and clean and fill with CO2 etc?
Not saying you can, putting the idea out for the hive to evaluate:
https://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-61433.html?_br_psugg_q=dent+puller+kit
In reply to Shavarsh :
Yes, sealing the drain plug is my concern. The impact was in the sump area, so I don't think there's any crank interference concerns
In reply to NY Nick :
I have a stud welder, but I don't think it's going to be strong enough. The pan is pretty thick metal. I'm really just trying to pull the area around the bolt hole so that it will seal again
How about a thick crush washer with a small OD? is there any flat area at the bottom of the threads?
Or maybe you can find a short pipe section with the same threads that can be epoxied in place, then you can tap the bottom of the pipe for the plug.
Edit: Look into "piggy back" oil drain plugs
Looks like it should be a 1/2-20 thread on the drain plug. Maybe an eye bolt with that thread in the drain plug hole to hook a slide hammer onto?
In reply to Shavarsh :
There was just a plastic washer on it. I think o ring and or a new copper? washer may do the trick.
In reply to EvanB :
I forgot to grab the plug this morning.... But yes around 1/2xwho knows.
You might be able to remove the pan by undoing the motor mounts, jacking up the engine a couple of inches and removing the tie rod. I did it on a similar Int truck long ago. And on my Jeep.
Battery is on charger
I don't have much hope. It was at 1.2 volts......
But it's on jack stands. Floor cleaning and wipe down incoming.
In reply to java230 :
Then get a spare drain plug, weld a threaded rod to it and screw it in. Using some random bar of angle or whatever, make a puller that used the welded thread to pull the drain plug into place. If you dont have a welded, drill and tap the spare plug.
There are things like this toggle bolt but make sure you practice removal before using it
In reply to NOHOME :
A high temp boat drain plug was floated at work today! Definitely an option. I'm going to focus on paint for now.
I don't see any cracks tho
The "Boat plug" option is something that quick-change oil places keep on hand cause bad things do happen and they see it all.
Sitting here thinking about sines and cosines and all that, I'd be willing to bet you can get your alignment back into spec with a toe adjustment. Unless the drag link interferes with something as you steer lock to lock, I'd send it as is and worry about a replacement later.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Agree. I'm not sure drag link is the right term, it does Connect both sides, but also the steering box.
but I'm going to get my big ass Burke bar and get it as straight as I can and send it.
Use 2/3 of a pint of black pigment in the three quarts of Gray base. I sprayed just over 4 quarts
Lots of random crap in the paint, but such is life. It's progress.
Oh and good news. Speedy glass says they can get a windshield! ~$330 and it's only a state away. I'll order in a week or two I think.
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