java230 said:In reply to Daylan C :
Filler I would have to build, It was old school built into the tank and just a gasket to the body. I would need to find a filler neck to wel do the body, and a flex line between the nipple on the tank and the filler neck on the body.
This gets $$ in a hurry! $465 for the tank, a sending unit and pump. Plus needing to mod the tank :(
You aint kidding!
The fuel-safe filler hose was like $100 Cnd in itself.
Pete
In reply to NOHOME :
Yeah its kinda scary!
I think I have decided on the GM TBI system..... Just need to figure out if it can handle higher incoming fuel pressure than it was designed for.
Itll be fine. I ran one on an unregulated e2000 pump. Pump put out 60psi, tbi didn't even blink. Read a rock steady 21psi (adjustable regulator) at the injector pod.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
That is perfect information, thank you. Looks like I am going to go with a Ford tank, 18 gallons, and the GM TBI unit. I'm probably going to buy the stripped down and set up one.... although it's very expensive. Plug-and-play could be good right now.
Filer neck reducers are a thing.
In reply to NOHOME :
Yeah its more the tank side I need to shrink. Tank and filler are in my Amazon cart at the moment.....
Dusterbd13-michael said:Itll be fine. I ran one on an unregulated e2000 pump. Pump put out 60psi, tbi didn't even blink. Read a rock steady 21psi (adjustable regulator) at the injector pod.
Right, this is what normal people get to worry about. I have to havea pressure regulator with the ol' scout cause anything over 4 psi causes the carb to flood.
Hope the Ford tank works for you Java, I dont want to steer you wrong. If you need any dimensions or pictures before you pull the trigger lemme know and I'll get you what I can.
In reply to Medchin :
Thanks! It's cheap and the right approximate size, plus parts are easy to get. I'll probably go that route.
Inner skins are cleaned up and painted, minus hood bracket location and the spot I need to patch under the battery tray. Really didn't want to pull the hood, but I think I have too.....
Shock locations will work. Hopefully the shocks are up to it, they are pretty small..... They are leaned back a little, but IIRC that decrease the effectiveness a bit. They are Afco "Street Rod" shocks.
Fuel tank ordered, I am going with the 18G Ford tank, got a random filler neck that I hope will work also. Dropped TRE's Orderd. Fed Ex and UPS are going to hate me soon.
Anyone have thoughts on this, any reason I couldn't mount my shock to this link? Strong enough? Its solid round bar.
Can you give a better overall picture of the suspension? Im assuming theres a heim or rubber bushings or something at either end of the rod, but....
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Not at the moment..... BUt I can take one tonight. Its bolts to the lower A arm (IIRC) and has a soild (I think) hiem.threaded connection under the frame.
Here is a google pic of the back end of those arms.
Ah! Strut rod style. Very similar to the mustang2 front end.
Im not sure about placing the shock on them. But, worst case the rod bends and changes your alignment.
I know on early Mustangs that strut rod is a weak point. It is facing the front on a Mustang but serves to locate the lower control arm (single chassis pivot point) fore and aft. In that case the risk is shearing it at the threaded location near the frame bushing and losing some control of the wheel location. I would make sure the connections at each end are up for a new bending load.
Exactly, lower control arm has one pivot, this locates the bottom of the knuckle fore and aft. I am not wild about it, I don't quite know how much force is imparted by a shock, but it cant be small. But it sure is an easy location. Where I thought would work will likely contact the bag at full dump.
Option 2 is move it further back on the lower A arm, again not ideal as it become less of an acting force being mounted closer to the frame side pivot.
What about welding a lower shock mount to the front of the lower arm? We had a stock car with a ford style front end and the lower mount was a piece of thick wall tubing threaded to accept a 3/4 inch bolt welder through the arm and sticking out about one inch. The bolt went through the heim on the shock into the mount and held up fine.
In reply to Wally :
Tire clearance in the front is lower. Was aiming for double shear mounts, but compromises can be made.
The upper and lowers were single shear and we never had a problem. It freed up a lot of space over other cars we had.
In reply to Wally :
That would certainly simplify the mounts, half inch bolt for a stud is easy.
Went for a bike ride and dinner with the wife so no real progress yesterday.... Other than the mounts I made for the shocks are too short. Take 2! Need about 1/2" longer to space out from the bags more.
But they 'should' fit like so.
Well that's pretty cool, the original line card! Looks like it's a 3.54 rear end.
Looks like someone spec'd that thing out to be a tow beast.
BTW, that automatic is a Chrysler 727 in an IHC case. All the usual 727 tricks work on it. When I built the one in my Scout many moons ago it got a shift kit with hemi bands and clutches.
If you need to order a torque convertor, don't let the trans shop feed you a line about having to cut yours open and rebuild it because they can't get one. IHC used an AMC torque convertor because IHC used a proper flexplate with the ring gear on the flexplate instead of on the torque convertor like Chrysler did.
In reply to ShawnG :
It does! Unfortunately the tow hitch is going to come off for the new tank. Oh well.
That's for the tans info! I found it was a 727, but that's as far as I got.
Made shock mounts, its really tight to fit everything in there. The shock just touches the bag at full bump. But I don't think that will be an issue, as it really wont be driving much at that height.
Lower mounts
Uppers in the same fashion, I made them extra long. I can drill another hole to bring the top mount down if needed. The shock is at full travel at full droop, and not fully collapsed at full bump, so the top may need to drop a bit to get it more centered at ride height, but I don't quite know where ride height is just yet.
Full bump
Full droop. (max shock length)
Mid range ish. Hopefully that's enough clearnace on everything.
Before you weld it in add some air to the bag. Something in my mind says that the bags grow in diameter with air pressure not just height
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