1982 Chevy S10 - $2018 Challenge Build by a 16 year old kid

In reply to Fladiver64 :

I spun the motor until the exhaust valve just started to open on a cyl and then adjusted the intake valve of that cyl until it was wobbly then swapped from the exhaust just opening until the intake valve was just about closed and adjusted the exhaust valve. And repeated through the rest of the cyl.

I can always back them out 1/8 turn because like you said it'll just make some noise. 

The timing is about where we had it when we got it running but I'll definitely check it again.

Thanks for the advice I'll have to go and work on it a little bit.

SHE LIVESSSS!!!

I finally got the S10 to run right and drive around. Turns out it needed hotter plugs and new spark plug wires.

I got a set of wires from a buddy of mine who was throwing out a set off his 454 (literally pulled it out of a trash bag). I ohm'd them and they were within spec, so on they went. 

It fired right up and runs clean with 60psi of oil pressure at idle. No misfire and no lag when you stomp the loud pedal. 

However, valve float is around 4500rpm due to stock valve springs...

I have a couple videos of me driving it around but the forum doesn't let me upload them.

Thanks to everyone who had a hand in making this truck run!

SHE LIVESSSS!!!

I finally got the S10 to run right and drive around. Turns out it needed hotter plugs and new spark plug wires.

I got a set of wires from a buddy of mine who was throwing out a set off his 454 (literally pulled it out of a trash bag). I ohm'd them and they were within spec, so on they went. 

It fired right up and runs clean with 60psi of oil pressure at idle. No misfire and no lag when you stomp the loud pedal. 

However, valve float is around 4500rpm due to stock valve springs...

I have a couple videos of me driving it around but the forum doesn't let me upload them.

Thanks to everyone who had a hand in making this truck run!

Thanks for double-posting so I could give two thumbs up!  I remember how it felt when the first engine I built rumbled to life and stayed running!  Congrats kid!

a couple days ago I was able to embed YouTube links from my laptop using Chrome. 

In reply to AngryCorvair :

HAHAHA I didn't even notice it posted twice.

Thanks! It's a great sense of accomplishment that something I put together myself is actually working.

Hope is it'll last long enough to blow up at the challenge this coming year. 

I already have a handful of parts in the mail to help some of the other issues I found on the test drive (wheels rub on anything more than 1turn left or right, front suspension is soooo soft is hits bump stops on braking, and the rear has some really good axle wrap when you floor it)

Looking at the Moog 5662 for the front and some traction bars and air shocks on the back to help the axle wrap and function. Also looking at getting some 15x7's to replace the 15x10's upfront to get full lock to lock...

In reply to gabecar3 :

Look for “corvette rally wheels” in 15x8.  Without caps and rings they’re probably $50-$100 for a pair out of pocket, but could easily be “FMV Trade” for the 15x10s that you’d be removing, if that’s more favorable to your budget.

also, I called dibs on the number 13 for this year’s event.  Life’s tough in the big city.  :-P

Great to hear you got the truck running!

I have that seat pulled out of mine finally for you.  Also I have a set of 15's you can have if you can get to Jacksonville.  I have two at my house and I am pretty sure the other 2 are behind the carlot.  The below picture is of the wheels on my s10 when I bought it.

In reply to AngryCorvair :

I found a set that matches the wheels on the back for $60 a wheel which is actually the same price per wheel and the 15x10's on it now (Paid $240 for the 4 15x10's which is $60/wheel) so I'll just do a solid trade for a pair of 15x7's and sell the 15x10's to make up the difference personally. 

I called dibs on #3 last year (speaking of which I need to make sure they transferred my registration and banquet to this year)

In reply to pimpm3 :

That's great let me know if you're ever in Central Florida and I can try to grab the seat from you. Or I can try to make a weekend trip up and grab it.

Alright so I need some help.

I took by truck for a drive yesterday and threw 2 gallons in since I ran out last weekend and then I drove about a mile and shut it off and when I came back I started it but it wouldn't idle then it sounded like I was running out of fuel in the bowls, towed it home and drained the gas tank and it only had a 1/4 gallon left....

The tune is right at 0.86 LAMBDA (12.5ish AFR) so its not just puking gas into the engine. My thought is the return line could be stealing gas somehow but can't figure out where it's going. Any other ideas what could be happening???

It makes no sense to get 1MPG basically idle-ing.

In reply to gabecar3 :

You are running a carb, yes? Is it leaking? What has been done to the whole fuel system? I'd check for leaks and/or evaporation. Gasoline evaporates at a stupid rate. 

Also I wouldn't try running a carbed v8 by throwing 2 gallons in the tank. It's is not a recipe for someone looking to skimp on fuel. Let it DRINK.

In reply to barefootskater :

In reply to barefootskater :

Yes a carb'd 305 SBC. No leaks at the carb. 

Fuel system is stock lines with an inline electric fuel pump (can't use mechanical because TBI block not cast for it). And a Mr. Gasket FPR with no return (was running a return but unnecessary so removed that FPR for a non-return one. Wel i only have a 2gallon jerry can so can't exactly throw more at once... Might buy a 5gal jerry can and fill both my 5gal and 2gal cans for 7gal in the tank... 

There are no leaks on the lines or carb that causes liquid fuel to leak at a rate fast enough for it to drip anywhere....

Thanks for the help

Have a sniff of your oil ans see if it smells of fuel.

Pete

In reply to NOHOME :

Smells a little like gas but not like it's saturated

is the oil level higher on the dipstick than it should be?

In reply to AngryCorvair :

this is a really relative question.

The 305 doesn't like the oil level where it should be so it likes 4 quarts more or less including a filter. Right now it's a little higher than I had it in that it's where it should be normally. Oil pressure is still good though so no change there. How would gas be going into the oil if it isn't running stupid rich?

I removed the return regulator I had for a return-less one and will test this weekend again with more gas. Is it possible that my o2 sensor is reading incorrectly because of its position and it's actually running super rich?

Just thinking out loud, thanks for the help

So Gabe you going to finish this for the challenge this year? We got ours running and driving, moving on to body and paint. Time is running out.