In reply to GoLucky :
It's not ideal...but I'll start pulling motor number one apart some night this week. May be an easy fix?
In reply to GoLucky :
It's not ideal...but I'll start pulling motor number one apart some night this week. May be an easy fix?
In reply to 1SlowVW :
At least it was cheap right? Is it worth just re ringing? Or find another cheap block to drop in.
In reply to java230 :
I think it's more like a cracked ringland than a bad ring sealing.
I think I'll take an hour or two Wednesday night and pull appart engine number one. It was running great but had a knock. Might be as easy as throwing some bearings in it and tossing it back in.
Also yeah at 100$ Canadian I can't complain much.
It was a case of Unlucky piston #7 for motor number one and two. Time to check my injector, swap a piston and throw this junk back together.
realistically I was running a little leaner than I would like, when I get it back together I'm going to pull a degree or two out of it and ritchen the top of the map up a little.
Any other suggestions from the wise folks here?
1SlowVW said:Any other suggestions from the wise folks here?
While you have the pistons out, sorting the best matched set, open up the ring gaps.
gumby said:1SlowVW said:Any other suggestions from the wise folks here?
While you have the pistons out, sorting the best matched set, open up the ring gaps.
Yes! Since you are in there anyway you may as well. For all of the boosts later.
GoLucky said:gumby said:1SlowVW said:Any other suggestions from the wise folks here?
While you have the pistons out, sorting the best matched set, open up the ring gaps.
Yes! Since you are in there anyway you may as well. For all of the boosts later.
Just don't look at the cam bearings!!!!!
In reply to gumby :
This would be the best thing to do. Gapping the rings is a smart move but I did not do it.
What I did do was throw a used piston with used rings and used bearings in...
In reply to Ranger50 :
I was so concerned that they would be trash that I left the cam in so I wouldn't be tempted to have a peak.
Well, new motors in. Went to start it yesterday and the ecu wouldn't fire up. No communication. I did have the battery charger on and switched batteries since I last tried to start it now it seems like the the ecu is not getting power, although when I check at the ecu plug it has 12v and the grounds seem ok.
This is my first mega squirt problem , let's see if I can figure it out.
Turns out I fried my microsquirt by using the jump start function on my small battery charger.
Super impressed with efi source in pa, 2 day turn around on the repair and sub 50$ dollar repair.
Truck should be back to life next week in time to make room for the winter project.
Had the truck out for the first time this summer today. Realized that I had made some tuning errors last year. This year I know more so I started with a fresh base tune. First few miles in the truck today were fun. Running a little lean but well, saw a 2-3 psi a few times, was reminded how cool of a noise it makes.
I installed the transgo kit last year but had engine troubles directly after, was pleased to have it to through the gears today. Shifted firm but not harshly. We'll see how hard it hits once I ask it to shift under load.
All in all, very pleased to have the toy on the road again.
How did you do the transgo kit - namely: drilled hole sizes, and the wee accumulator (?) spring (step 2) arrangement you did?
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I went middle on the shift firmness drilling, and I believe the lighter modulator spring. Really just wanted to be able to hold out until redline in first and second and was told that transgo was the best kit to help with durability.
Had a little new issue with the truck getting warm. Put a new thermostat in and found a loose connection on the fan wiring. Nice and warm yesterday so I took it to get groceries problem seems to be cured. The street tuning continues.
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