wae wrote: I open mine to see who's there.Did you mean that before you put the car under the knife for the swap it was making the clunking noise? Or did you swap the axle tonight and still have the noise?
I think the wiring is fine, but I'll get the scan tool out sometime today.
Yeah, the knocking noise was from before the engine swap, so I put a new axle in during the swap. Noise is still there.
In reply to eastsidemav:
You did new ball joints, control arm bushings, and tie rods too, right? No clunking change before/after?
Swaybar endlinks banging around? Top hat steering bearing getting cruddy? Strut loose?
Didn't get a ton done today, the rain kept me from being able to do any test driving to get the CEL to come back on.
Did manage to do a quick alignment, should hold me until I start making more suspension changes. Tighened up the exhaust manifold bolts, but not sure whether there was really a leak there or not. Also, cleaned up the garage a bit while the car was parked half out of it.
eastsidemav wrote: Didn't get a ton done today, the rain kept me from being able to do any test driving to get the CEL to come back on. Did manage to do a quick alignment, should hold me until I start making more suspension changes. Tighened up the exhaust manifold bolts, but not sure whether there was really a leak there or not. Also, cleaned up the garage a bit while the car was parked half out of it.
I still have your magic alignment curtain rods, remind me the next time I'm headed up and I'll get them back to you...
That would explain why I couldn't find them. Picked up one to do the job this weekend. I'll just get the others back from you whenever I get the chance.
Spent a while prepping for and going on a trip to London, so no progress for a while. Got back Sunday, so yesterday spent a little time in the garage. Cut supports out of the hood so it clears the higher engine, and also started cutting up a 3.0 intake to make a new air intake. Screwed up the intake, and now need to go to the parts store for some overpriced intake tubing, or the junkyard. Won't be able to make it to the junkard til the weekend, so I'm tempted to bite the bullet and spend some money for a chinzy parts store piece, at least for now.
Neons 2013 is in under a little undder 4 weeks, and its happening nearby. The weekend after that is the next WOR rallyx. I want this thing to be ready for both events.
What size/material do you need for intake tubing?
In reply to EvanB:
I need a 90 degree bend that has a 2.5" OD. Chrysler products from the late 80's early 90's with the 3.0 engine have an intake tube with a 2.5" ID, so, usually you can use those for the bends, and get some straight exhaust tubing for the straights, but since I messed up the one tube I had, I need to get another, or head out and buy some.
I've got some random 2.5" intercooler piping laying around and I believe some silicone connectors you can have if they will work.
That might work if I don't get impatient and hit a parts store. You gonna be at the OVR rallycross this weekend?
Yep, I can bring my box of pieces so you can see if anything will work. I have quite a few 90s.
Sounds good, thanks!
EvanB wrote: Yep, I can bring my box of pieces so you can see if anything will work. I have quite a few 90s.
Never mind about the parts. I'm still recovering from whatever illness I picked up on the way back form England, so won't be there this weekend. Thanks, though.
Still not feeling great, but I need this car together by the end of the month, so did a bit of work.
Hacked together a cold air intake from some intak tubing and a filter I picked up a ways back used. Had to cut up the stock battery try for it to fit.
My wife helped me install the hood. Put a few washers in to shim it up a bit so there's more open air space at the back of the hood, should help with getting hot air out while its sitting in the grid.
Picked up and installed lawn tractor battery, since the battery tray is now somewhat smaller. I'll need to come up with a way to secure it before the first rallycross.
Took a vitamin bottle, a few brass fittings, and a little filter, and made a catch can for the PCV and valve cover vent. Was hoping some rerouting would get rid of the high idle/stumble. The way I had things laid out originally might have created a vacuum leak.
Finally, took it out for a spin around lunchtime today. Still idling high, and stumbling off idle. Whatever knocking noise it makes in left turns seems to be worse now, but it may just be because I was driving the car faster. I'm beginning to wonder if something is hitting one of the axles while the wheels are turned left. Whatever it is, it sound like it wants to self-destruct. Got home, and there was oil dripping on the ground. Originally, I assumed the leaky axle seal was the culprit, but upon opening the hood, its a mess in there.
Fired up the car, and let it idle. Couldn't find the oil leak. Got the propan torch out, and sprayed (unlit) propane in the areas around the intake manifold that could be leaking, but no sign of a vacuum leak. Got my wife to come out and rev the engine a bit, and with higher pressure, the oil was dripping from the cam position sensor, so thats one more gasket to change.
Unfortunately, I'm somewhat tired already (darn whatever this sickness is), so that's probably about all for the day. I'll pick up a new sensor tomorrow, since no one around here stocks just the o-ring, and I'm on a tight timetable.
Anyone got any ideas about the high idle and stumble off idle, since I appear to have eliminated (or minimized) the odds of it being a vac leak, I'm stumped.
For the idle and stumble, I would be curious to know what the PCM thinks the temperatures are. If your OBDII scanner doesn't show the live data stream, we can plug mine in to see what it's reporting for IAT, MAT, and CLT.
Maybe the idle air valve is sticky/gunked up?
wae wrote: For the idle and stumble, I would be curious to know what the PCM thinks the temperatures are. If your OBDII scanner doesn't show the live data stream, we can plug mine in to see what it's reporting for IAT, MAT, and CLT. Maybe the idle air valve is sticky/gunked up?
I think mine will read that data live, I just didn't have the presence of mind to look at it yesterday. Thanks for the reminder that it can do more than just pull codes.
Turns out the idle isn't high, just my tach isn't very accurate below 1000 RPM. Once it heated up, it settled into an approximate idle of 850 RPM.
TPS shows 14% on the scanner when off the gas, and rises relatively smoothly when I press the pedal slowly. Didn't pull apart the TB to get to the IAC, but its not throwing any codes, so I'm not sure if thats can cause the stumble or not.
Are you going to make it to the enduro on the 29th?
EvanB wrote: Are you going to make it to the enduro on the 29th?
Gonna try. Still need to diagnose whats making a racket when the car turns, fix the skidplate, come up with a way to secure the battery and the air cleaner, maybe replace an axle seal, and a bunch of other little stuff.
Oh, and figure out this blasted stumble when I press the acclerator 
Really want to get this done, because I've peeled out a few times unintentionally while trying to keep the car from stalling. Could make for a fun time driving in the grid. I doubt Lori would be willing to drive it if I can't fix this, unless I can break in the clutch before then. Right now there's not much distance between clutch in and full clamping force.
Swapped out the stock ECU for a Mopar ECU, and interestingly enough, it threw a code when I was test driving that the stock one didn't, P1390, Timing belt skipped at least one tooth. I was extremely careful when putting the timing belt on, but maybe that could explain the stumble off idle if one (or both) of the cams is off by a tooth. I really don't want to have to crack into this though, so I've got a message out over on the neons board in case this could be anything else, before I even try to touch the timing belt.
wae stopped over, and we took the car out and did some diagnosis of the knocking sound. He seemed pretty sure it was a CV, so we took it out to a park where he could stand outside the car and hear where the sound was coming from. It was the passenger side, which has a brand new axle. We took the car home, got it in the air, and looked and fiddled with the axle, and all seemed well. Then I noticed a tiny bit of dirt and paint gone from part of the inside of the wheel. We threw on a different set of wheels, and voila, no noise. At that point, wae headed home, and I put the original wheels back on, but swapped sides. No noise. So, one of the 15" GM rims I'm using appears to have just enough runout, and the passenger side caliper sits out just far enough, that during left turns they were barely touching. It had sounded like something was self-destructing, so it was surprising that it was so hard to notice just looking at it.
Also, there is a cutout on the lower core support for the A/C compressor pulley. Turns out it doesn't completely clear when you've got a 2.4, and the engine rocks a bit. I'll have to do a little clearancing, the pulley is getting ground a bit, and its been grinding a notch into the core support.
Still hoping to have it ready by the rallycross at the end of the month. Probably won't get any work done tomorrow, though, planning on going to Indiana to check out some scooter drag racing.
eastsidemav wrote: Oh, and figure out this blasted stumble when I press the acclerator
I'd think that starting out at 14% would have something to do with it. Chrysler does weird things with TPS and it needs to be correct.
Knurled wrote:eastsidemav wrote: Oh, and figure out this blasted stumble when I press the accleratorI'd think that starting out at 14% would have something to do with it. Chrysler does weird things with TPS and it needs to be correct.
I need to change units in the OBD reader, and see what the voltage is, so I can see if its in a factory acceptable range, rather than the reader's translation.
Good call.
As a rule of thumb, though, if your scan tool is reading "generic OBD-II" then the values will be actual.
I'm not sure if Chrysler does it, but Fords for sure can and will give you bad data if you're in enhanced mode and the computer is substituting an inferred value. My guess is that the fault-tolerance parts of the computer's software are upstream of where enhanced mode gets its information. OBD-II generic data, by regulation, can not supply inferred values.
Pulled the timing cover, which is apparently a lot harder to do in a 2.4 swapped neon than a stock one. Got the car to TDC, and lo and behold, it's timed correctly.
My reader doesn't translate back to voltage, so I need to dig out the multimeter, but am too frustrated after this evenings adventures in timing belt checking.
I pulled the head from a PT Cruiser today. Let it be known that a 10th level of hell has been commissioned for whatever committee designed the motor mount arrangement.
I say committee, because it's so frustratingly difficult and asininely designed that no single person could possibly have created it.
The service procedure for the mount literally has Step 1 being "remove drivetrain from vehicle". The bracket very nearly does require that as well, and the timing belt loops through the bracket, and the timing belt procedure conveniently glosses over how to remove it.
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