In reply to kevinatfms :
It was fun seeing that thing out there, sorry I didn't get a chance to say hi... Hope to see you out there some time later this year!
In reply to kevinatfms :
It was fun seeing that thing out there, sorry I didn't get a chance to say hi... Hope to see you out there some time later this year!
wvumtnbkr said:Crunching when hot is likely due to not enough clutch release.
Been there done that. A ziptie should be able to fit in between the clutch disc when clutch pedal is depressed cold.
I drilled a hole with a hole saw in my bell housing to be able to check after having similar issues in my racecar.
Edit: I could spin the driveshaft by hand when clutch was pressed thinking that was good enough. It was not. Notchy shifting and a couple ruined synchros really smashed the point home.
Dont think its the clutch. The issue was in the 2-3 shift when hot. Engaging of 1, 1-2 and 3-4 were not a problem. 2-3 upshifts were the issue and not on the downshift.
Maybe bad teeth? or the edge of the gear being chewed up? I had similar on my last Elantra. Swapped the box out for a later Tiburon transmission with the shorter gearing and 1/2 as many miles which cleared it all up. Same clutch, slave and master.
In reply to flatlander937 :
Looked like you were having a blast though and it looks mean as hell with all that rubber on it.
I wont be there in June but ill be back in July. Still contemplating on the Elantra or my Fiesta for that one. Hope to say hi next time round though.
In reply to kevinatfms :
What fluid you running? OE would get hot and crunch. I have had some really good experience with the Red Line MT85 for Korean cars.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
What fluid you running? OE would get hot and crunch. I have had some really good experience with the Red Line MT85 for Korean cars.
Ill have to double check the exact fluid but it wasnt Hyundai OE. Something from Autozone/Pep Boys/Advance that met the requirements for Hyundai manual tranmissions..
Ill grab Redline and see how it goes.
Here's a few pics that Dan at Mach V took of your car this weekend (snagged from Facebook). Holy body roll
In reply to flatlander937 :
Dude, that's awesome compared to original. I need to find some of my old Elantra pics and show you the difference.
flatlander937 said:
Here's a few pics that Dan at Mach V took of your car this weekend (snagged from Facebook). Holy body roll
Thanks! Didnt see those pics he posted.
Running Ksport coilovers with 7.5K fronts(420) and 4k rears(224) with a larger rear sway bar from a Tiburon. Feels good and the body roll isnt half bad compared to a stock Elantra.
We have to redo the steering system first as there is a shocking amount of play in the passenger side balljoint and tie rod. Maybe go stiffer in the future.
In reply to kevinatfms :
They're basically 1:1 motion ratios front and rear right? Struts front and back mounted directly to the knuckles?
You'll be wanting way more spring, especially out back to help with roll and also keep that inside front tire planted.
flatlander937 said:In reply to kevinatfms :
They're basically 1:1 motion ratios front and rear right? Struts front and back mounted directly to the knuckles?
You'll be wanting way more spring, especially out back to help with roll and also keep that inside front tire planted.
Yes, exactly, bolted from strut to knuckle front and rear. The road race spring rates they offer are 14k front /12k rear. Im not sure if the damper cartridges i currently have can handle that much of an increase in spring rate without being revalved. Id have to ask Ksport.
In reply to kevinatfms :
The Ksports I hd on the Forte handled the 700lb springs now on the X71. Barely, but they did. I think you could do a 550 up front fairly easily.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
The Ksports I had on the Forte handled the 700lb springs now on the X71. Barely, but they did. I think you could do a 550 up front fairly easily.
What do you think on the rear? Ill grab some springs before it heads back to Motorsports Solutions to get some cage bars added to be legal.
550/450?
550/500?
The Tib had 10k rear 8k front and was about right for it. So somewhere around that area which would be a 550/475-ish. Your car doesnt have the heavy hatch so probably 550/450 would work well.
Picked up a 2 row aluminum radiator to swap in. Under $100 shipped which was a total steal. Pulled it from the box and it looks to be around double the thickness of the original hyundai radiator.
Next event is in July at Summit Point. I was hoping to drop the car off to get the cage up to Champ requirements but the head of Motorsports Solutions is in the hospital. So we will just run it in trackcross events for now until he is back up to 100%.
So far car has over 100 track miles so far and is doing great. Excited for more things to come.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
Is it the Tib radiator? Those have gotten stupid cheap.
Yes sir. Tiburon radiator from DNA racing.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
I had the same one in Tubey!
Not in the same line but do you know if the Tiburon steering rack fits the Elantra?
My issue right now is the steering is abysmal. Going to replace all the tie rods and steering shaft to eliminate as much "daily driver" play in the suspension/steering system but was remembering that the Tiburon steering rack was faster by a pretty good measure over the Elantra GT rack and the GLS rack(which i believe is the slowest rack of the 3).
Let me know what you think. I do see two different part numbers for the Elantra so we could always go to the GT rack later if that is the only option.
Elantra GLS - 57700-2D000
Elantra GT - 57700-2D100
Tiburon - 57700-2C000
TBH I don't know. I think they might but I am not sure.
The 2D100 is the rack for hte 04-06 I thought. I don't remember there being any difference in them.
bobzilla said:TBH I don't know. I think they might but I am not sure.
The 2D100 is the rack for hte 04-06 I thought. I don't remember there being any difference in them.
Could be. I just was within the Hyundai parts listing and see both for the 2002 MY. Then i checked the later years and found they were all the same part number. So i assume it was GT and GLS models had different steering ratios but then i saw they list them as one is rubber mounted while the other is solid mounted?
Very odd.
Welp, all new steering parts are on there way. Going to keep the stock rack until i can find a junkyard with a Tiburon unit to see if it will fit. We will replace the inner tie rods, outer tie rod ends and the front control arms. Going to poly fill the front control arm bushings if they come with the massive voids in them(Mevotech shows they are solid bushings but wont find out until i see them).
This should remove some of the play with the steering wheel and tighten the front end up a bit.
Also drop the subframe and fill the bushings at all 4 corners. Those have a lot of voids as well and that would allow the entire suspension to shift.
bobzilla said:Also drop the subframe and fill the bushings at all 4 corners. Those have a lot of voids as well and that would allow the entire suspension to shift.
I forgot those! We will have to do it when we can. I do have the bushings that fit into the bolt holes to center it better but i didnt think about filling those.
Im still wondering about the rack itself. Really would love to have a quicker steering ratio.
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