2006 Subaru Baja (Turbo) 206k+ miles for $400

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

Duster doesn't even know how to do a burnout...

I've heard that his skillz are sad.

If i break that much expensive crap in normal rwd stuff doing burnouts, i cannot fathom the cost of awd burnouts.

Nope.

But diff #4 for the miata showed up tonight!

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

We understand if you're scared.

So, it doesn't run.

berkeley.

Walking away now. Tine tonshower, eat dinner, and watch simpsons or something. 

Well,  positive is that its reading 60psi of oil pressure just on the starter.  So at least I got that going for me. Which is nice. 

Doing a burnout in an AWD Subaru with an automatic transmission on pavement implies a neutral drop, which is asking for trouble.
 

Gotta run before i refuse to do burnouts. 

My three thoughts:

1.messed up timing belt timing 

2.maf being disconnected won't let it run

3.coincidental crank sensor failure 

There is one way to mess the timing up on these.  Something about a cast mark in the cam sprocket that is not the timing mark, the small stamp is the timing mark.  As an old school V8 guy I found this annoying. One side lines up with a corresponding stamp and the other lines up with a seam.

I have never done one with adjustable timing, only older two and four cam models.

Re the concern about matching gear ratios front and rear.

You've got those Ready Jack dealios. Why couldn't the guy put the car up in the air and make a mark on front and rear tires and then run it slowly in gear and see if front and rear tires are turning at the same rate. That would verify gear ratio differences pretty quick wouldn't it ?

edit to add, once you get past the no-start issue of course.

A lot of things won't run with the MAF disconnected, that seems likely.

maf tube in process.

Mass air tube repaired and installed. Everything hooked back up. All fuses checked. Still won't fire. Won't even fire off of ether

I've had crank position sensors fail for no reason at all more times that should be reasonable...if it wont fire on ether, throw a sensor in it

In reply to fouckhest :

I still have an rpm signal during crank. 25x rpm on the starter. Wouldn't that be evidence of the crank sensor being good?

I'd say the sensor is good with an RPM signal. I see this thing is coil on plug, anyway to get those connectors swapped around on to the wrong coils? I'd spend some time unplugging and re-plugging all the connectors you had unplugged just to see if something wasn't seated correctly.

I don't know how easy it is to get at the coils/coil wiring but you can trigger a timing light off of the power to the individual coils, the jump in current is enough to trigger the light. Might be worth a shot to see if you have spark (sounds like you don't but it is something you can try). If you do have spark I'd be looking at fuel pumps and relays etc. Without spark I'd say it's missing an input to the ECU or possibly an ignition lockout thinking it has the wrong key. 

In reply to adam525i :

No real way to swap the wiring to the coils. Subaru made it pretty moron proof that way. I'll see if I can get my inductive timing light probe down to one of the coil pack wires I did not know that I could trigger off of them like that. I did try the unplug and replug all the connectors already thinking I missed one. Even did all the ones at the steering column from where I swapped it. It does definitely seem spark, but I'm thinking it's got spark just at the absolute wrong time. It'll be nice to confirm or deny the presence of spark though.

You swapped the steering column?  Does it do something with the key that isn't being recognized now?

I know on some mazdas that the key and "pickup" at the ignition are matched.  I'm not sure what would happen if you swapped the key and ignition into a different vehicle.

Also, I would expect some type of backfire or something if it had spark at all.

Can't you do a compression or leak down test to verify timing / compression?

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

When I swapped the column all I wound up using from the donor car was the shaft and housing. I retained all the Baja switches and block cylinder and everything else to prevent exactly that problem. Trying to get into the plug holes for a compression test I'm not sure how I would do it. With approximity of the plug hole to the frame rail I'm not sure that I could get something in there

Have you checked all the fuses? There's two fuse panels, one under the hood and another hiding in the in dash behind the coin tray to the left of the steering column.  

In reply to adam525i :

Yes sir I did. Had that same thought that maybe I popped one somehow. Unfortunately they were all good.

Dusterbd13-michael said:

In reply to fouckhest :

I still have an rpm signal during crank. 25x rpm on the starter. Wouldn't that be evidence of the crank sensor being good?

Yes - if you have rpm signal, that typically means the CPS is good....seems like there must be something simple missing 

Can all the timing marks line up on the cams and crank and still be 180 out? I'm more familiar with distributors in V8s so please excuse me if that's a dumb question

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Can all the timing marks line up on the cams and crank and still be 180 out? I'm more familiar with distributors in V8s so please excuse me if that's a dumb question

i'm pretty sure the answer is NO. cams spin at 1/2 the speed of the crank. so let's say perfect timing is all marks are at 12 o'clock. if you turn the crank 1 full rotation from that point, the crank will be at 12 and both cams will be at 6.  either way, i think this doesn't matter. "180 out" means the spark is occuring near "TDC exhaust" instead of "TDC Compression".

from your descriptions so far, it sounds like you have no spark output from your coils. i think you need to google "verify spark 2006 subaru baja turbo" or something similar.

EDIT:  user "doodah dave" seems to have some sube ignition knowledge.  from his posts, i'd say you need to see what's happening on each pin of your coil connector.

EDIT2:  rockauto says the 2006 baja turbo is coil-on-plug, not a top-mounted coil pack like the non-turbo.  so the above info from doodah dave may not directly apply.

I've been thinking about this. It seems like you've checked the connectors, etc.

How crispy was the wiring harness? I worry that moving it around may have broken a wire in there.



 

Brett_Murphy (Agent of Chaos) said:

I've been thinking about this. It seems like you've checked the connectors, etc.

How crispy was the wiring harness? I worry that moving it around may have broken a wire in there.



 

Ugh.  That was a thing on most of the 2nd gen rx7s I messed with.  Check continuity on every wire from the ecu to each device.  Seemed like a yearly problem I had to solve.