In reply to tuna55:
So what did you do during those four hours that those issues weren't noted and either fixed before purchase or the money for their repair written into the contract?
In reply to tuna55:
So what did you do during those four hours that those issues weren't noted and either fixed before purchase or the money for their repair written into the contract?
Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote: In reply to tuna55: So what did you do during those four hours that those issues weren't noted and either fixed before purchase or the money for their repair written into the contract?
I didn't push on the Windows, it didn't rain hard, I asked that they repair the toilets and not that they replace the wax seals, I did not pull the refrigerator out, and I was excited to buy a house!
tuna55 wrote: and I was excited to buy a house!
This is the root of 99% of my questionable purchases. I'm almost better off buying things sight unseen if I'm really excited about them.
Hey so, there's not really any update, but I did realize a problem that I only realized after perusing the mid-TT thread.
I aligned (roughly) the truck with the front end in the air when I hurriedly assembled the truck before we moved. When it was on the ground, I could barely push it. I redid it and the result was the same. I didn't care because I just had to get it in the new stupid garage, so I got more people and we pushed harder.
I'll bet I have all of the bumpsteers now. I got a taller balljoint, which moved the steering balljoint up also. Then I moved the lower control arm forward, which moved the steering balljoint forward.
Now I have to move both the idler arm and the steering box?
How do I do this properly in the garage? Is a R&P the easier route, even if I maintain no power steering?
Bench racing here. The kitchen is almost done and then onto the floor upstairs before I even get to look at the truck again.
Had me worried when I saw this...my goal is to get back on the Molvo before you get back to the truck!
As to your front suspension issue? Yeah, I can see where the bumpsteer issue might be a result of the mods, and hard to fix with what you have done. Can you just go to drop spindle$ ? Not sure where they would leave the steering arm geometry.
NOHOME wrote: Had me worried when I saw this...my goal is to get back on the Molvo before you get back to the truck! As to your front suspension issue? Yeah, I can see where the bumpsteer issue might be a result of the mods, and hard to fix with what you have done. Can you just go to drop spindle$ ? Not sure where they would leave the steering arm geometry.
No drop spindles. There has to be another way. I am thinking that I add a mounting adapter to the steering box and relocate the idler arm. I may need some better alignment tools before nailing those down though.
So... other than using a tapered spacer intended to use a spherical bearing on the tie rod rather than the ball joint end, what exists in the real world for adjustable bump steer?
My taller lower ball joint (shown without boot in the pic) has gotten my geometry all wonky.
This stuff makes my head hurt, but I think you're right in that you can move the steering box and idler arm bracket up on the frame, thereby moving the inner tie rod ends up and getting all of your imaginary lines intersecting again. You could set up some lasers on the uprights aimed forward at a wall so you can see what's happening and temporarily mount the idler and box with smaller bolts so you can move them around to test stuff out before attacking the frame with a die grinder.
http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-articles.aspx?item=8162
Hey Tuna, this might help with the bump steer:
Atlanta Falcons vs. New England Patriots. Game is being played in Houston TX at 5:30PM on Sunday, February 5.
In reply to mtn:
Really???
Dusterbd13 wrote: In reply to mtn: Really???
That post in the minor rants was just asking for it!
That, and I'm an shiny happy person
Tuna, I haven't yet changed anything in the stock suspension and steering, I don't want to drop drastically but an inch or two wouldn't be too much for me. I'm thinking about a drop spindle with big brakes. what do you think?? Also, shameless bump for the thread. '72
Scooter72 wrote: Tuna, I haven't yet changed anything in the stock suspension and steering, I don't want to drop drastically but an inch or two wouldn't be too much for me. I'm thinking about a drop spindle with big brakes. what do you think?? Also, shameless bump for the thread. '72
I think its going to take more than a hint!
Scooter72 wrote: Tuna, I haven't yet changed anything in the stock suspension and steering, I don't want to drop drastically but an inch or two wouldn't be too much for me. I'm thinking about a drop spindle with big brakes. what do you think?? Also, shameless bump for the thread. '72
I have zero experience with drop spindles. My point of view was that there sure was a lot of geometry to get wrong, and it didn't sound like the aftermarket really was vetted from that standpoint, so I cut my springs, slid the lower arms forward, and am now trying to figure out the best way to handle the bump steer.
As far as brakes, the 72 had pretty big brakes already. I probably will be keeping them stock for now, though the calipers are quite heavy.
NOHOME wrote:Scooter72 wrote: Tuna, I haven't yet changed anything in the stock suspension and steering, I don't want to drop drastically but an inch or two wouldn't be too much for me. I'm thinking about a drop spindle with big brakes. what do you think?? Also, shameless bump for the thread. '72I think its going to take more than a hint!
It's coming, I have not forgotten. I expect this year to be really rough from a budgetary perspective. Tunawife's asthma needs floors upstairs, we have a giant vacation planned for summer, but I'll start chipping away at it soon.
Bear with me, please!
Drop spindles do a fairly good job of not screwing up the geometry. They are not perfect, but they do "feel" and "handle" better than cut springs. Whether they are $230 better, is up to you.
I did spindles AND cut springs on my '77 Silverado, as well as spindles and unwound (but stiffer) torsion bars on my '94 Hardbody.
The Hardbody I also drove strictly torsion only for about a year. The spindles were better, but not $$$ better.
This is the first picture that has enough distance to show some of your work. The roof repair and door gaps all look good. Also great to see it not turning into an orange surface rust ball what with the humidity you get.
NOHOME wrote: This is the first picture that has enough distance to show some of your work. The roof repair and door gaps all look good. Also great to see it not turning into an orange surface rust ball what with the humidity you get.
In all reality, if you put a gun to my head, handed my $500 and told me to drive it today, I could. It's brake lines, coolant hoses, a seat and a shifter away from moving under its own power. Thanks for the good feedback! I am really sad at this house taking up all my money. We're just about done with the debt incurred by the leaking windows from last year (0%, but still) and then we move upwards.
SkinnyG wrote: Drop spindles do a fairly good job of not screwing up the geometry. They are not perfect, but they do "feel" and "handle" better than cut springs. Whether they are $230 better, is up to you. I did spindles AND cut springs on my '77 Silverado, as well as spindles and unwound (but stiffer) torsion bars on my '94 Hardbody. The Hardbody I also drove strictly torsion only for about a year. The spindles were better, but not $$$ better.
Drop spindles can...
It depends on how careful their engineering was. Knowing some of those places inside, and seeing some bad stuff, I decided to stick with GM and make it work. If you're buying them for some known quantity, plenty of analysis and reviews could be found, but nothing reliable was around for the two or three manufacturers making decent drop spindles for trucks.
I was inspired.
I removed the swaybar link, pulled a spring, and measured the bump steer.
From full droop to full compression it's.
........
Like 30 degrees.
My tie rod is currently mounted above the spindle.
It wants to be mounted 1 3/8" ish below the spindle.
I can weld/grind and reshape the spindle, to a point, but 1 3/8" plus the thickness of the spindle at this point is well beyond that.
I can purchase a tapered sleeve and reverse the direction of the taper such that I can flip the tie rod, but I want 1 3/8" more.
I do not like the idea of a spherical bearing mounted on a threaded insert into the taper, but I will if needbe.
Some tie rods are bent in that axis. Are there tie rods bent that much?
This is solvable, the worst part is that the tie rod wants to go right above the swaybar links... that I specifically designed a few pages back to go there. Crap on a crap cracker there, eh?
Here it is, with a blue glove used to hold the tie rod in the hole for measurements sake.
Now for the record, I measured this with an iphone's compass, so I doubt it's perfect, but if I can get close, I can move the new taper a bit. As it sits, it's completely undrivable.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-es675/overview/
Like this, but backwards. This would have to mount on top and the offset doesn't look like enough to stay on top.
tuna55 wrote: I got the carb back together as far as I can without a new float.
I've been binge reading this in my spare time since it got bumped a few days ago. I got to this picture and was overwhelmed with a sense of nostalgia. I had to rebuild so many of these I could smell it. LOL
I'll have one of these trucks eventually. Hopefully before a guy needs to spend a small fortune to get one.
In reply to Crackers:
They are still really cheap, just be prepared to do a lot of rust repair.
Just so everyone knows, I am still working on this issue:
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