Build thread for the 72 GMC, finally. Thanks John!

In reply to NOHOME:

So far the only thing I've outsourced was that stake pocket cover thing, and only because my vice is gone and I don't have the space or cash for a brake. Thusly, and unsurprisingly, I'll be spraying it myself. have filler, a gun, primer, and clear picked out. Have not figured out sanding, masks, suits, and if putty is still a good thing or not. I also haven't decided if I'll pitch my tent in the backyard (that sounds terrible) or the driveway.

It's also going to tink that, unlike the bugeye, I have to paint the tailgate, bed, fenders and hood all separate from the cab. Then somehow I have to magically assemble them all without scratching anything.

we painted the elky with no booth, no suit. no masks, etc. pretty much the wprst possible scenario. and it came out pretty good. also, what color are you spraying? some colors do panel painting very well, some don't.

Michael

Dusterbd13 wrote: we painted the elky with no booth, no suit. no masks, etc. pretty much the wprst possible scenario. and it came out pretty good. also, what color are you spraying? some colors do panel painting very well, some don't. Michael

Like 40 pages ago I decided on blue with a white top.

Or green.

or that pale yellow...

Not red, not black. Not because those are tough on prep and paint, just because I am not a fan (no offense!) of those on this truck.

im with sfo on not liking red vehicles. and ive owned one for 20 years.

black looks good on everything. or is it everything looks better black?

pale yellow, and a solid blue with no pearl or flake would probably be your best bet on panel painting. not certain though.

have you ever spent any time in the paint and body section over at hotrodders.com? those guys got some knowledge and theyre happy to share.

Michael

Dusterbd13 wrote: im with sfo on not liking red vehicles. and ive owned one for 20 years. black looks good on everything. or is it everything looks better black? pale yellow, and a solid blue with no pearl or flake would probably be your best bet on panel painting. not certain though. have you ever spent any time in the paint and body section over at hotrodders.com? those guys got some knowledge and theyre happy to share. Michael

I was over there asking questions about interior stuff, so I'll have to check it out. Paint people are scary. I asked a "cheap paint" type question on the usually very helpful 67-72chevytrucks.com site, and got about forty-three thousand "you get what you pay for NOOB" type replies.

Medium green

Yellow

Nantucket blue

Medium Olive

Medium Blue

Medium olive just looks right. Do it!!

Dusterbd13 wrote: Medium olive just looks right. Do it!!

I admit it is nice. I'm ditching all of the trim, though. I think I'll go with some good pinstriping painted on instead.

+1 to Olive with pinstripes.

Well then we may have made a new color choice today.

I look forward to outsourcing the pinstriping to a guy with a brush. I seriously want to see what those guys can do after watching them in so many hot rodding TV shows.

That, the glass and those stake pockets may be the only outsourced parts. Oh, and I don't put tires on wheels anymore. That sucks.

What color for the GM Rally wheels on an Olive truck? The grey is too... grey. White?

tuna55 wrote: In reply to NOHOME: It's also going to tink that, unlike the bugeye, I have to paint the tailgate, bed, fenders and hood all separate from the cab. Then somehow I have to magically assemble them all without scratching anything.

You have not lived until you have painted the interior of the trunk on a bugeye.

If I were to do this again, I would build a shelter and have a bank of fans at one end pulling though filters and blowing the filtered air down the length of the booth. The opposite end of the "Booth" would be pretty much an open wall. Maybe overlaping strips to keep bugs out as the paint cured, but the fact is that while you are spraying, the big deal is to blow the cloud of over-spray out of the booth.

With base clear, color sanding cures a multitude of sins.

How close are your neighbors that you will get away with this? It really stinks up the hood to the point where I would not try to get away with it more than once a year. Would not consider doing it in an attached garage.

In reply to NOHOME:

We're all on roughly half acre lots. I'll have to be quick about it, but yeah, an attached garage is a definite no go.

We are talking BC/CC

From what I understand, it's better to spray the epoxy primer before filler, so I suspect I'll be setting this tent up and taking it down a few times...

spray the epoxy outside. skip the tent.

just be forewarned that that stuff is IMPOSSIBLE to sand. ever. even with a grinder. its like paintable por15.

Dusterbd13 wrote: spray the epoxy outside. skip the tent. just be forewarned that that stuff is IMPOSSIBLE to sand. ever. even with a grinder. its like paintable por15.

Epoxy primer first. No need to tent for this.

Filler on top of epoxy. Use Rage Gold. You will be glad you did.

Scuff the epoxy primer and putty down to about 80 grit.

Featherfill polyester high build (the stuff is basically spray on filler that is easy to sand). No need to tent for this either since its mostly going to be sanded off. Sand this stuff from 120 to 320 or 400 grit. The instructions on the Featherfill say to sand down to 400 and paint over the stuff, I wont do that again. Too chalky and I want a 600 grit finish to paint on.

sealer/primer coat. Sand sealer/primer to 600 grit

Spray color. I tack wiped the color to remove any dust.

Spray several coats of clear over color.

Color sand or as I call it "Dirt and bug sand" to get stuff out of the clear. This makes a HUGE difference to the finished product.

Have you contacted southern polyurethanes about a paint system? You are correct that paint forums are user hostile. Just read and absorb, accept that there is no consensus between peers in the paint world. Oil and water separators are your friends. use at both ends of the hose. Spring for the silicone and wax remover and use it before paint.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

That is my formula. It worked and I will repeat it. Others will have different approaches and I am sure they will work just as well.

Make sure its this color

So you like it too, Pete? Gosh, everyone but Tunawife loves it. It's certainly unique. I have the Rage Gold, although it was purchased about five years ago and used on some small spots I was smoothing before I knew better, and before I found gigantic amounts of rust, so I may have to buy another gallon. Here are my questions to your method:

What putty? You mention that I should sand it down with the filler after the epoxy, but you never told me to put it on. If I understand, this is a one part putty used to fill tiny pinholes in the rage (which there probably won't be many of because of the quality of the product).

Are you a believer in those filler graters? I've seen them used with good success to take off the big part of the filler before employing sanders. Are you a believer in the air sander things to make things go faster, or are they overkill and going to make me mess up quicker?

How many coats of color?

Did you do the repeat coats quickly?

I have figured I'd use SPI primers and clear, but I did not figure out the color manufacturer yet.

Sorry..putty..filler...I tend to use the two interchangeably. What I am saying is that once you do the filler work on top of the epoxy primer, you scuff up the epoxy primer and bodyfiller (aka putty) and start to build the final surface for paint.

If you use the featherfill surfacer, the spot putty that you are thinking of becomes redundant since it is mostly to fill holes in the bodyfill. Rage does not produce a lot of pinholes, and the featherfill will take care of most of them.

I am with you in that I don't like the cheese-graters to shape any bodyfill. Especially if you are just doing skim coats rather than full-on sculpture. What I use is a flexboard with 40 and then 80 grit to shape and finish the body filler.

Not a big fan of the air powered board sanders.

I did three coats of color and three of clear. Followed the instructions on the can as far as timing, but essentially half an hour between coats. I could have done the clear up to 24 hours later.

Until recently, I was a filler on metal person, and can still make the argument that it will have better ultimate adhesion. However, the epoxy protects the metal from the small amount of water that is produced as the filler cures, so it is a fair tradeoff.

What brand of color would you use if doing it again?

Long work session last night, I stopped around midnight. First I had to reassemble the emergency brake cables which I had taken apart before, then attach the passenger side wheeltub, and then I could tackle the passenger side stake pocket. I made this a cover. What I mean is that the old stake pocket is still under there. My reasoning is that I can still use it as a stake pocket. Anyway, this caused some issues as the height overall of the new cover had to be changed, but some work and...

There it is.

I'll the the voice of dissension and say that olive color is hideous. Go with the blue if you have to have one of those colors.

Honestly if it was mine I'd paint it like this:

My Dad had a 65 that was painted that way and it looked good in person as well.

moparman76_69 wrote: I'll the the voice of dissension and say that olive color is hideous. Go with the blue if you have to have one of those colors. Honestly if it was mine I'd paint it like this: My Dad had a 65 that was painted that way and it looked good in person as well.

Tunawife thinks that the olive looks like baby poop. She said that when it's done, she's going to say "you made it look like E36 M3!"

I like the Olive because it's unusual, although I admit that some shots look better than others. I'd probably want to see a sample of it mixed up before buying.

I'll toss in my vote for the blue.

Thin Rustoleum 50/50 with mineral spirits, spray, wet sand and buff. ducks

Tuna:

Up here in Canukstistan we get raped pretty bad for car paint. I used Sherwin Williams products and can't say anything too bad because they worked. One eye opener is that they do not want you to use fixh-eye reducer in the color. If there is one concern that I have it is with fisheyes and in fact had to scuff and repaint the first color coat because of them.

Fish eyes are a big issue because the are caused by Silicone contamination and most garages are pretty much saturated with the stuff. I like your idea of building the booth outside. It is also why I mention buying the proper silicone remover and degreaser product. I tried to get away with a paint using lacquer thinner and it did not work well.

There is an awful lot of E36 M3 to learn when refinishing a car, you are bound to screw something up, but it really is not a big deal to take a step back and re-shoot.

I bought Eastwood Pre in preparation (ha!) of painting a loooong time ago, and it's worked very well for what I've used it for thus far. Good stuff?

tuna55 wrote: I bought Eastwood Pre in preparation (ha!) of painting a loooong time ago, and it's worked very well for what I've used it for thus far. Good stuff? Guess you will let us know eh?

How do y'all plan on dealing with spraying an iso-cyanite?

Breathable air?

Hold your breath?

Due to my own respiratory issues, I'm a bit freaked about the potential risks.