SkinnyG wrote: How do y'all plan on dealing with spraying an iso-cyanite? Breathable air? Hold your breath? Due to my own respiratory issues, I'm a bit freaked about the potential risks.
I use the charcoal mask. I also go through about $90 of the filters to paint a car since I change them a lot. The option is to buy a "Hobby Air" respirator system. The retail for anywhere from $300 to $500
Some people are hypersensitive to the iso paints and cant even drive by a body-shop without a reaction.
I was considering a grassroots built respirator drawing air from outside but I am not sure.
tuna55 wrote: I was considering a grassroots built respirator drawing air from outside but I am not sure.
Going to steal the wife's CPAP machine?
http://www.camaros.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-179119.html
It 'seems' like it wouldn't be too much trouble to build a constant pressure fresh air system. It just has to push enough air that you always have positive pressure on a mask and have the mask vent to the outside to prevent CO2 buildup. It doesnt need to be quiet or comfortable, which takes most of the engineering out of it.
Never been a genuine fan of green but I really like that Medium Olive. Here's another 60-70's green:
Pontiac's Verdoro Green. Bet that would rock w/ a silver two tone on a truck.
Every brand back then had something similar.
tuna55 wrote: Yellow
Orbit orange?
No to Orbit Orange.
We have houseguests, sleeping downstairs, so things are a bit slower than normal.
So today was the beginning of tearing apart the front suspension. I don't own a pickle fork, and I regretted it today. Anyway, here is how I ended up.
I can easily take the upper arm next time and they'll get cleaned up and painted. The spring looked good. I will have to replace the ball joints. They're original.
Let's go back and try that again.
"THEY ARE ORIGINAL"
They're 42 years old and were filled with mud and dirt, rather than just boring grease.
I'll report back when I know more about what's going on under there.
In reply to tuna55:
42 years is pretty good. I had a 78 I used to put ball joints in every year or so. Might have something to do with trying to teach it to fly. 
I will say, they never broke, they would always bend first.
My cross shafts and nuts have very little wear on them. I have to figure out how to replace just the boots to cut my costs down a bit, any leads?
Which boots?
Dusterbd13 wrote: Which boots?
Came here to post this picture from Rockauto:
But now I realize that the whole kit is $6, so perhaps I'll just buy the kit and throw away the rest in lieu of the GM stuff.
Here are the FIL's pair of 70s chebbys...I particularly like the green one - more of a John Deer green, its a respray of the original color. Just tossing this one into the mix. The green one is very original - AM radio, heat, manual drum brakes, straight 6 with column shift...kinda cool to ride around in, up until you need to shift, or stop, or turn, or go. 
The red one is wearing the green ones shoes...dunno why, and is much nicer - big block, B&M floor shift, etc...and its been dropped since this pic was taken 
I made some paper dolls:
I see a scale and pivot points, but have no idea what im looking at.
My front suspension as portrayed by thin cardboard and those little split pin things
Dusterbd13 wrote: I see a scale and pivot points, but have no idea what im looking at.
I am going to go out on limb and say it is a suspension calculator. The finny one IS an engineer after all and hence not really pre-disposed nor able to leave good enough alone.
NOHOME wrote:Dusterbd13 wrote: I see a scale and pivot points, but have no idea what im looking at.I am going to go out on limb and say it is a suspension calculator. The finny one IS an engineer after all and hence not really pre-disposed nor able to leave good enough alone.
I can add nothing to the comment above.
NOHOME wrote: I am going to go out on limb and say it is a suspension calculator. The finny one IS an engineer after all and hence not really pre-disposed nor able to leave good enough alone.
I motion that Tuna be referred to as "The Finny One" from now on
The Finny One has been busy!
We made some gingerbread houses for the contest at church.
And then Mommy and Daddy had to make one. Of course it couldn't just be a house, and it needed to be done at night when the kids were in bed so they couldn't wreck it, and well..
Also we had like 10 appointments at various doctor's, and I am not actually exaggerating. Tubes came out, tubes got stuck down throats, knees were bonked, biopsies were taken, eyes examined, teeth cleaned... the works.
So it's been a bit hectic.
Also we took family pictures.
But I finally returned to the garage last night. Wow, it's cold.
I finished disassembling this side. Removed the balljoints and the spindle and whatnot. I think I may have a line of sight to the parts I'll need for the rebuild, but I was not pleased with the accuracy of the paper dolls that I made. What I plan on doing is removing the spring from the other side and checking the angle versus travel in situ before putting it all back together. It's too bad I didn't think of this before or checking bump steer would be really easy.
Yay updates!
And you and tunawife ought to win the competition at church. Very cool and creative.
Yes, shops are very cold right now for both of us. Imagine what the Canadian guys are dealing with. That's really gotta suck.
Awesome. I love the gingerbread village you guys ended up with.
Our family tradition with Gingerbread is slightly different.
Dusterbd13 wrote: Yes, shops are very cold right now for both of us. Imagine what the Canadian guys are dealing with. That's really gotta suck.
Hmmmm....about 80 degrees in my shop
Any cooler and the beer does not go down as good! We do have priorities in Canada!
I spent some time with the calculator and the measuring tape and I was having trouble believing my results. Thusly I took the spring out of the drivers side and put the rest back together to check.
Now I recognize that if a race team or alignment shop caught me checking camber with an iPhone (after deflating the tire enough to be flat coss section ally) I would be laughed out, but it worked fine for me.
The result is that from max droop to max compression I gain two degrees of camber in the right direction. While not ideal, this is way better than I thought. I have data for each inch of travel. Essentially the camber stays put until it starts compression. I also know that I have very little caster.
Relocating the arms is way harder than I thought, and I am not sure offset cross shafts are available. Does anyone have input as to the best way to improve the camber curve just a bit? Right now I gain one degree during the first inch or so of compression and none after that. What I expect to need is around .75 degrees per inch based on a track width of 74 or so.
I might e able to replace the spindles, get taller ball joints, or potentially figure out some offset cross shafts. I can definitely improve caster by shoving the lower control arm forward a bit but with manual steering I have to be careful.
What say ye??
I redrilled the lower arm shaft on the '77 Silverado 3/4". With the equal shims front and back, the truck is now at 4° caster (spec was ~1°). Any way you can do this on yours??
The caster angle does good things but obviously the angle is shallow on this truck. At mid corner, the camber gain is closer to half of a degree per inch of compression. Not too bad actually.
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