SkinnyG wrote: I redrilled the lower arm shaft on the '77 Silverado 3/4". With the equal shims front and back, the truck is now at 4° caster (spec was ~1°). Any way you can do this on yours??
Yes. Planning exactly that for more caster.
SkinnyG wrote: I redrilled the lower arm shaft on the '77 Silverado 3/4". With the equal shims front and back, the truck is now at 4° caster (spec was ~1°). Any way you can do this on yours??
Yes. Planning exactly that for more caster.
Caster is so so good. The best thing I've done to my truck is buy a set of upper arms that moved me from the stock 1.5 or so degrees of caster to about 5.5. Absolutely transformed the truck. It doesn't make me like it, but it does make me hate it less.
mazdeuce wrote: Caster is so so good. The best thing I've done to my truck is buy a set of upper arms that moved me from the stock 1.5 or so degrees of caster to about 5.5. Absolutely transformed the truck. It doesn't make me like it, but it does make me hate it less.
The problem that I will have is that it will increase steering effort and I have manual steering which I intend to retain, but otherwise I agree!! A decent front geometry should work well with the changes that I made to the rear and make it as corner carvy as a long bed sticking truck can be.
Can you take a closeup picture of the paint, Im curious about the finish close up, since you said you didnt thin wet sand or polish. It looks really good in pictures.
Opti wrote: Can you take a closeup picture of the paint, Im curious about the finish close up, since you said you didnt thin wet sand or polish. It looks really good in pictures.
U hmmm what?
Perhaps it's time to bring this question to its own thread to get more info from crazy folk who don't love old rusty trucks.
Steering effort is pinky-finger-70's-goodness in the '77, but it ~does~ have power steering. Why not swap in a 73-87 box and get some boost?
SkinnyG wrote: Steering effort is pinky-finger-70's-goodness in the '77, but it ~does~ have power steering. Why not swap in a 73-87 box and get some boost?
Personal preference.
Current plans:
Slide the lower shaft forward to give 5-7 degrees of caster overall
Purchase tall lower ball joints for improved camber curve and 1/2" drop
Cut 1/2-1 coil
Add the swaybar from the 'burb in the junkyard
Put replacement upper balljoint on the bottom of the upper control arm rather than the top. I recognize that I lose some security by doing this, but I think with a good bolt and a double nut, the latter pinned, I think I'll be OK.
I am not certain, but I think this will work. Control arms are too expensive, as are spindles. Too bad there aren't more interesting options. I must say, as much as this is a Truck and not a racecar, I was alarmed by how much the spindle/disc/caliper combo weighed.
I did the balljoint on the bottom on the elky like you describe. Caused a bit of wheel to control arm interference. Double check before driving.
Christmas slows things d-o-w-nnn. I have good news that I could not share beforehand. My new role at work is very generous with rewards via gift card. I had a -LOT- and Tunawife did not know. She got a new Serger, which is apparently some awesome sewing thing, and some pajamas and slippers that I was able to get for free. I got all new front end suspension parts. THe trick is that I couldn't order them until now because getting a five hundred bucks worth of suspension stuff from Amazon would have tipped her off. Or maybe ticked her off. Maybe both. Either way, I spent it tonight, look for more exciting updates soon!!!
Sweet!
As strange as this sounds, I was going to pm you if I hadn't seen a post by you by the end of the weekend. Was starting to worry about you and the family.
Great news, and even better to see you back.
Not sure who is more excited about the shipment of new parts...you or the fan club!
Me!!
Everyone has been sick, too. This has put a damper on things, Christmas included. First everyone was throwing up, now, a week later, we have moderate fevers, sore throats, coughs and general misery. During both bouts I have remained healthy. Other than running about 639 loads of laundry since my last update.
Fear not, loyal fans, despite a lackluster December, I'll get back to it as soon as parts arrive and health improves!
Yay! Go tuna!
Woot!
Sorry I was reading this build thread and the other old GM truck that the owner painted blue with a roller and I got the two mixed up.
Funny you mention moving the ball joints on the control arm. I have been considering doing just this on a Volvo Amazon, to get a bit of suspension drop without cutting springs. Kindof like a poor man's drop spindle.
Everything slowed to a halt for me for the past week or two as well, with family coming in and all the preparations. But I got some work done last night. Things are looking up.
Caster is awesome. I put tons and tons of it into my DD's. Makes 'em drive so nice on the highway. Yes, steering effort is higher (manual box) but it keeps my upper body strong. 
For clarity, I will get a taller lower ballpoint. This is exactly like a half inch drop spindle. I am not sure it makes economical sense from a pure ride height perspective since a typical drop spindle is a little less than double the cost of the special ball joints (although I obviously needed to replace the ball joints whereas I do not need to replace the spindles) and the spindles get you more than the half inch drop. Now, the big benefit of the tall lower ballpoint is the improved camber curve and bump steer.
I also am going to invert the mounting of the upper ballpoint, which will further improve the camber curve but not drop the truck at all.
Caster is going to be added, but yeah, steering effort will be much higher. The caster will also improve the camber curve dramatically. It's also free.
Chevelle steering box the same as your truck? If so, ive got a couple of manual boxes, and the jgc power steering box is great.
tuna55 wrote: I also am going to invert the mounting of the upper ballpoint, which will further improve the camber curve but not drop the truck at all.
How does this work? I'm not visualizing the "ball" and the inner "pivots" changing their relationship at all by doing this.
In reply to SkinnyG:
Think about the upper control arm angle.
The arm angle doesn't matter, it's the location of the inner and outer pivots. I could have an upper arm shaped like a dollar sign ($) - the location of the inner and outer pivots do not change.
SkinnyG wrote: The arm angle doesn't matter, it's the location of the inner and outer pivots. I could have an upper arm shaped like a dollar sign ($) - the location of the inner and outer pivots do not change.
But the taller lower joint spaces the pivot point away from the control arm, effectively lengthening the spindle. The upper joint mounted differently effectively moves the outer upper arm downward, similarly lengthening the spindle.
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