Build thread for the 72 GMC, finally. Thanks John!

Redneck mode, jbweld the E36 M3 out of it, bulk of the force is a compression load the trans case will handle fine.

You have a NP 833 OD, right? IIRC the bearing retainer on a 833 is bigger, a normal Chevy Muncie/Saginaw/ST10 bell won't work without boring out the bearing retainer hole or turning down the retainer.

2-4 just sound silly to me.

BrokenYugo wrote: Redneck mode, jbweld the E36 M3 out of it, bulk of the force is a compression load the trans case will handle fine. You have a NP 833 OD, right? IIRC the bearing retainer on a 833 is bigger, a normal Chevy Muncie/Saginaw/ST10 bell won't work without boring out the bearing retainer hole or turning down the retainer. 2-4 just sound silly to me.

So this bell is totally unique. Chrysler transmission pattern and Chevy engine pattern. THe only off-the-shelf options are another one just like this one, or a drag race special.

Yeah, 2-4 are silly, but they will work better than JB weld. If the JB fails, the fork flies into the clutch again and the engine speed goes to zero instantly. Not a great plan.

GM's part number is 14061655 if anyone finds one laying about

I think most of them actually used a Chevy trans pattern. Not that it matters if the retainer fits the hole correctly, that's what centers it, you can drill and tap holes freehand at that point. Pretty simple job to turn the retainer down or bore out a bell housing if you can't find the right one.

EDIT: I also found a handful on car-part.com for $50, it's aluminum so shipping won't be horrifying.

BrokenYugo wrote: I think most of them actually used a Chevy trans pattern. Not that it matters if the retainer fits the hole correctly, that's what centers it, you can drill and tap holes freehand at that point. Pretty simple job to turn the retainer down or bore out a bell housing if you can't find the right one. EDIT: I also found a handful on car-part.com for $50, it's aluminum so shipping won't be horrifying.

Nope, the transmission end of this one is all Chrysler. A belhousing with a GM transmission pattern won't fit.

I really do appreciate you trying to help though.

There are NOS ones on ebay for $400.

Car-part has one or two without prices, I'll contact them by phone when I get a daytime chance to do so. I also sent in a quote request. Also, I E-mailed the two sources I used way back for transmission parts.

I could just buy a diesel pickup, steal the transmission, shifter and bellhousing, and dump the rest.

The ebay NOS guy just dropped to $300 shipped.

Car-part has lots, I just figured out how to do the search for the 6.2 specifically. I won't be near a phone during daytime hours for a few days, so I sent out like 15 E-mails. Let's see what we can do. THe NOS one is awfully appealing though.

$180 shipped? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GM-Chevy-Cast-Iron-Transmission-Main-Case-14061655-FREE-SHIPPING-/281864965906?hash=item41a0760f12:g:FIYAAOSwv-NWUxnD&vxp=mtr

You might also try HAMB or whatever, look for an expired bulletproof bell for putting a Chrysler trans behind a Chevy, assuming the input shafts are the same length.

Is the engine just a Chevy 350? If so I'm surprised that the 6.2 diesel is the same bellhousing pattern.

In reply to moparman76_69:

Indeed it is, and indeed it is!

Carb is rebuilt now!

SkinnyG wrote: Make the APT adjustment "externally" adjustable, if it is not already. Marvelous for fine tuning cruise mixture.

Can you explain this to me?

tuna55 wrote:

SkinnyG wrote: Make the APT adjustment "externally" adjustable, if it is not already. Marvelous for fine tuning cruise mixture.

Can you explain this to me?

Curious myself...

http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/tech_qjet_history_4.html

Other changes included an adjustable part throttle (APT) system located in the right front corner of the main body.

NOHOME wrote:

tuna55 wrote:

SkinnyG wrote: Make the APT adjustment "externally" adjustable, if it is not already. Marvelous for fine tuning cruise mixture.

Can you explain this to me?

Curious myself... http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/tech_qjet_history_4.html

Other changes included an adjustable part throttle (APT) system located in the right front corner of the main body.

Ahh, yeah, I think I don't have that. The carb is probably from 1972.

Try this:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_rebuild_a_Rochester_Quadrajet_4MV_carburetor#Baseplate_APT_adjustment_location

In reply to SkinnyG:

I'll look into that a bit later on. Thanks for the link.

Tonight I vowed to stop doing the easy stuff, and tackle two or three spots they remain difficult before I start primer in the spring.

It was one spot on the firewall but I assumed was a " wire wheel and paint here " type of spot, but I actually was more of a " Cut a bunch of metal out and weld in new stuff here" area.

Pic to follow

Wow, this may be the worst picture I've ever taken. At least is shows the rough area where the patch was. The weld down the middle is because I didn't cut far enough the first time.

it's still WAY better of a weld than I could/can do

I is impressed, rather than admit that you broke the camera again, you did us a watercolor of the repair.

I have no idea why that picture came out so badly.

It was midnight, but that's not an excuse. I was woken up four times in the night, twice by a child (different children) wetting their respective beds. That's an excuse for stupidness today, but not yesterday.

I think I have another spot or two on the drivers side that are far easier than this one was, then to make absolutely positively sure that I'm happy with the door openings.

Then hopefully it will be warm enough to paint some stuff, engine and frame and whatnot, and then prime the truck this spring.

Yay!

glad you're back to posting on this truck

wbjones wrote: glad you're back to posting on this truck

Thanks man!

I try, I really do. The Honda slowed me way down for a while, and most of what I have been doing is cleaning. Posting "Hey look at how I spent two hours cleaning this alternator with a toothbrush!" is pretty lame. Everything is clean now. The carb got rebuilt, the clutch fork is clean, the alternator is clean, the alternator bracket is unbent and clean, the starter is clean, the bellhousing is ready to see if it can be repaired again, the engine is clean, the crossmember is clean, the other crossmember is clean, the frame rails are clean, the Z bar is clean, the clutch bracket is clean, the motor mounts have arrived, and tons of other little stuff has been brushed, cleaned, and wirewheeled to bare steel.

Tons of work. It needed to be done. Really really boring, though. The one savings is that it's really easy, it just takes a while.

tuna55 wrote:

wbjones wrote: glad you're back to posting on this truck

Thanks man! I try, I really do. The Honda slowed me way down for a while, and most of what I have been doing is cleaning. Posting "Hey look at how I spent two hours cleaning this alternator with a toothbrush!" is pretty lame. Everything is clean now. The carb got rebuilt, the clutch fork is clean, the alternator is clean, the alternator bracket is unbent and clean, the starter is clean, the bellhousing is ready to see if it can be repaired again, the engine is clean, the crossmember is clean, the other crossmember is clean, the frame rails are clean, the Z bar is clean, the clutch bracket is clean, the motor mounts have arrived, and tons of other little stuff has been brushed, cleaned, and wirewheeled to bare steel. Tons of work. It needed to be done. Really really boring, though. The one savings is that it's really easy, it just takes a while.

It is all progress no matter how boring you think it is. A lot of the minutiae that I post on my build is just to convince myself that I am getting somewhere, cause a lot of the time it feels like I am just running in place and drinking beer in the shop.

Trust me, the peanut gallery is enjoying every step on your journey!